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Umarex T4E HDR50/TR50 paintball revolver velocity adjuster "pre-order".

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  • William the Third
    replied
    This will not work on the HDS .68 cal shotgun

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  • Foster
    replied
    Has anyone tried this on the HDP shotgun model?

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  • William the Third
    replied
    Can confirm that these do fit the 11 Joule HDR50/TR50, as initially expected. I purchased an 11J valve assembly from MCS just to confirm. The following is what the 11J valve looks like. It has a "C" shaped devolumizer, that must be removed to install the velocity adjuster. There is also a threaded in flat disk with a tiny hole that acts as the dump chamber fill restriction. This should probably also be removed.

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  • Foster
    replied
    Payment sent.
    thank you for all you have done.

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  • William the Third
    commented on 's reply
    Sending you a PM.

  • Foster
    replied
    I’m in for 2.
    paypal?

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  • William the Third
    replied
    Alright guys, 8 remaining in this current batch.

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  • William the Third
    commented on 's reply
    I'm 99.314159% sure they will fit, as that's the same one I have. I'll send you a PM.

  • Chuck E Ducky
    replied
    I just purchased two of these. Think that adjusters will work in them? Figured they will be good for the kids in the backyard. Add says 7.5 joule so it should be good right?

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07PH...b_b_prod_image

    I will take 2 of the adjusters if they will work.

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  • William the Third
    replied
    So after getting some positive feedback from an early tester, I'm ready to sell a few of these. They will sell for $45 shipped (US, elsewhere in the world contact me, and we'll figure it out), and I've got 10 ready to go.

    Remember, the goal of these adjusters is to allow for adjusting, primarily by dropping, the velocity so these are paintball field legal. If you want something that will boost/increase the output/velocity, this is not the modification you seek.
    Last edited by William the Third; 08-31-2021, 03:40 PM.

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  • truffleman1
    replied
    More than a little interested. I have these pistols in the hands of all 3 of my family (wife and 2 adult children) as well as about 4 other former customers of my airgun store. As soon as these are ready to go expect a sizable order from me and mine. Looks like an excellent mod.

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  • William the Third
    replied
    Troubleshooting issues after the adjuster is installed.

    Plastic revolver clamshell does not want to go back together after adjuster installed:
    Tighten the rear brass aired-up indicator housing screw a bit more, or remove some plastic material from where the brass screw slides into the clamshells.

    Leaks out of the back of the gun:
    Is the leak coming from around the adjuster screw? If YES, make sure the adjuster screw isn't screwed too far in. The adjuster screw should never be screwed in further than flush with with the back of the gun (the plastic shell). Any further and you risk pushing the o-ring passed the 0.5mm dump chamber fill hole.

    Else if YES, the leak is being caused by either the M1.0x7.5 o-ring on the bronze adjuster housing, or the M2.0x3.0 o-ring on the stainless de-volumizing plunger. Replace and re-grease the o-rings. Use DOW-55 grease on the M1.0x7.5 o-ring, and DOW-55 in the M2.0x3.0 o-ring grove, and DOW-111 on top of the o-ring after installed. If leaks still exist, try using some PTFE (teflon) tape in the o-ring grove before installing the o-ring.

    If NO, is the leak coming from around the factory brass aired-up indicator housing screw? If YES, make sure it is fully and firmly threaded in, and if so, replace that o-ring (M1.0x12 (1.00MM CS, 12.00MM ID, 14.00MM OD)).

    Gun jackhammers/farts/bolt sticks when fired:
    Did you lube the gun when apart? If YES, did you use a thick grease? If YES, remove the grease. Use only very light grease or oil. These guns are very sensitive to friction, due to their unregulated/on-off less valve design. If the bolt moves too slow, the dump chamber will refill too quickly, causing the bolt to jackhammer/fart/stick until the rapid release of CO2 causes a pressure drop due to chilling, and finally allows the bolt to reset.

    If excess/thick grease is not the problem, make sure you are firmly pulling the trigger completely back. There is a small area in the trigger pull where it is possible to hold the sear down without resetting, causing the bolt to free float/cycle. Pulling the trigger completely back (or releasing the trigger) will reset the sear and stop the bolt.

    If none of those fix the problem, replace the M1.5x8.0 o-ring. This o-ring seals off the dump chamber, allowing it to fill only from the small 0.5mm fill hole. Lube this o-ring only with oil, and make sure the rear brass screw is tight and firmly compressing the o-ring. However, do not over tighten/compress the o-ring, or it may pinch out of place and allow another air path into the dump chamber.

    Jackhammering/farting may still occasionally occur even if everything else is correct when the velocity adjuster screw is far into the gun. This is because of the significantly reduced dump chamber volume being able to fill faster, even when being restricted by the 0.5mm fill hole.

    The gun is aired up, but nothing happens when I pull the trigger:
    Screw the adjuster out a bit, as it is screwed in too far, and the o-ring is sealing off the 0.5mm dump chamber fill hole.
    Last edited by William the Third; 08-16-2021, 03:19 PM.

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  • William the Third
    replied
    ​ Eventually I'll do a video on how to install the adjusters, but for now here is a picture and text guide.

    The adjuster replaces the part circled in green, the part circled in yellow must be removed to access it. This will work on 7.5 Joule and 11 Joule TR50/HDR50. This does not currently work on the HDP50, but the good news is I'm working on a redesign to fit these other markers from Umarex, and if you're handy, it would be trivial to modify this adjuster to fit.

    7.5 Joule


    11 Joule


    Another look at the part that has to be removed to access the factory restriction (green circle in the first picture). This time circled in green to be extra confusing. To remove it circlip/snap ring pliers work great.


    In most cases you won't be able to remove the factory restriction (green circle in the first picture) from the back (it's a light pressed fit), so you'll have to remove the bolt and push it out from the front. It's generally a good idea to remove the brass screw that seals it in and holds the aired-up indicator first. You have to compress the bolt spring to remove the valve assembly, and it's not fun with the aired-up indicator poking into your thumb. I didn't do it in this picture because I like the pain (actually I didn't think of it till it was too late).


    The 7.5 joule factory restriction that must be removed.


    The 11 joule factory restriction that must be removed.


    The factory restriction removed. Make sure that the little o-ring on the 7.5 joule version (can be seen in the first picture) comes out with it. You want it to look just like this with nothing in there.


    Reinstall the bolt assembly. In this picture I correctly left the aired-up indicator screw out so when I compressed the bolt spring I didn't add a new hole to my body. The trigger sometime pops out doing this, so it's best to just remove it. The spring is installed in the direction as shown in the picture, but onto the back of the trigger. The sear also sometimes gets in the way installing the bolt, so I like to remove it too.


    This is how the sear spring should look when reinstalled.


    Reinstall the other metal half of the clamshell so everything is held together. Now install the adjuster. The yellow M1.5x8.0 o-ring may not stay on the lip it sits on, but it's not a big deal. It will self correct when installed. It doesn't seal on the inner and outer diameters, but on the two faces. The large flat side with the small dump chamber fill hole faces down when installed.


    Once the adjuster is installed, it's time to install the aired-up indicator screw. To do this you must first remove everything expect the giant brass screw and its outer o-ring. Basically you remove all of the aired-up indicator guts. They are held in with an e-clip. Remove the e-clip, spring, washer, little o-ring, and the aired-up indicator shaft. Now reinstall the brass screw. Tighten it firmly, so as to compress the M1.5x8.0 o-ring. Don't overly tighten it, or the o-ring may pinch out (which is why a 90 duro o-ring must be used)


    No pictures for the rest. Before putting everything back together it's not a bad idea to air it up and test fire it. Also, you'll want to put the two plastic shells together empty and slightly drill out the aired-up indicator hole in the back, so the 2.5mm nut driver you'll use to turn the adjust can fit. How big you drill it out really depends on the size of the nut driver you're going to use. You can find 2.5mm nut drivers in various places, but this is the one I use. It has tools you may not need, but it's only slightly more (sometimes as cheap as ~$12, but typically ~$17) than a plain 2.5mm nut driver.​
    Last edited by William the Third; 08-31-2021, 03:30 PM.

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  • William the Third
    replied
    ​ O-ring sizes for the adjuster (I included some extra with the adjuster).

    Sizes are as follow:
    Green: M1.0x7.5, Buna-N, 70 Durometer - (1.00MM CS, 7.50MM ID, 9.50MM OD)
    Yellow: M1.5x8.0, Buna-N, 90 Durometer - (1.50MM CS, 8.00MM ID, 11.00MM OD)
    Blue: M2.0x3.0, Buna-N, 70 Durometer - (2.00MM CS, 3.00MM ID, 7.00MM OD)
    ​​

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  • William the Third
    replied
    ​ So some of the early testers should have gotten their adjusters. The following is some general disassembly pictures so you can see what it looks like apart.
















    ​​

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