instagram takipci satin al - instagram takipci satin al mobil odeme - takipci satin al

bahis siteleri - deneme bonusu - casino siteleri

bahis siteleri - kacak bahis - canli bahis

goldenbahis - makrobet - cepbahis

cratosslot - cratosslot giris - cratosslot

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Mostly 3D printed SPump

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Rainmaker
    replied
    I think the grip frame would look really cool with this style of finger/hand-guard...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	RM grip.jpg
Views:	366
Size:	69.2 KB
ID:	259494

    Leave a comment:


  • Spider!
    commented on 's reply
    I particularly like the guide block/jig. Nice work all around though!

  • devilzcall
    replied
    Halfblock mod

    This is what I started with yesterday. Before that, I flipped the VASA, which is documented here.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220410_170602_941.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.23 MB ID:	257844

    This turned out way better than it should have, given that I was working with a dremel, half of a metal saw and a set of glorified nail files from aliexpress.

    I started by creating a 3d printed guide piece since I already had most of a digital twin of this marker in my CAD software. This made it super easy to align the vertical cut and was basically useless for the horizontal cut. Also the radius on the inner corner was a dumb Idea.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220410_133932_490.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.82 MB ID:	257848 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220410_133922_707.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.93 MB ID:	257845

    I had to get into the sides with my dremel and eventually took off the guide after scribing an outline. Only once I broke through both sides with the dremel I could properly use the saw for the horizontal cut.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220411_101648_852.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.01 MB ID:	257855 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220411_103055_303.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.88 MB ID:	257854 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220411_155946_718.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.15 MB ID:	257850

    Yeah, no, that looks like shit. I dremeled it down as good as I could and then used my tiny files to get the surface uniform. The printed guide was actually really nice for filing, or if i had a proper sized metal file it would have been at least.

    Once all the dust was cleaned up and the jig was removed It actually looks quite nice.

    Now onto the sled. That was another really easy Exercise, given all the measurements I had already made. So off to the printer it goes. 45 minutes later:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220411_175159_344.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.41 MB ID:	257851 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220411_175446_509.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.35 MB ID:	257852

    I am so happy with that. The sled is deliberately not flush with the bolt to mimic my design of the velocity adjuster.

    And since I could also use my pumpgrip as reference in CAD, the pump rod aligns perfectly. Here is the finished Marker:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220411_184501_356.jpg Views:	0 Size:	3.35 MB ID:	257857

    Whats Next?
    • I want a nicer barrel for this. I have a lapco adapter for AC barrels but it gets caught on the pumpgrip and I don't like the thought of paint getting shot from a wide bore into the control bore.
    • It desperately needs a nicer frame. I want to try my hands at printing something resembling a single trigger dye ultralight frame. What kind of nicer single trigger frames or mods are out there for spyders?
    • I'd like to get rid of the spyder style endcap and replace it with an autococker IVG style thread and cap, but that's probably happening way down the line.
    • Clamping feedneck. Thought about ordering another bike seat clamp, but there's some reasonably cheap spyder feednecks on german ebay.
    Last edited by devilzcall; 04-11-2022, 02:38 PM. Reason: image resizing and removing duplicate attachments

    Leave a comment:


  • Brianeric26
    replied
    Thankss

    Leave a comment:


  • devilzcall
    commented on 's reply
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5278050

  • Brianeric26
    replied
    Maaaaaan i really wish i had saw this post before i bough my spyder pump i bought one model that dosent have an lpc thinking it could be easier to 3d print a pump rod but no your idea is actually way easier , what material are you using ? Youl you mind sharing or selling the stl file for the hammer ? Im really interested on it for my spump build, though i was wondering to try and make her open bolt to avoid using other stricker/hammer and keep the ball detent function but still really amazing job 💪

    Leave a comment:


  • Jonnydread
    commented on 's reply
    devilzcall I would sweetspot the reg in the general vicinity of desired FPS, then use spring tension adjustment to set the final velocity. In most Sheridan-valve style setups I would advise against using the reg to set velocity as it can cause fluctuations in performance.

  • devilzcall
    commented on 's reply
    Probably, lets see how hot (or not) this one ends up shooting. Since I already have the reg, installing it would give me the option to adjust velocity by pressure instead of spring tension. It'd also go along with eventually sourcing a trilogy LPR and turning this into a spocker/cockster ...I should probably get a real autococker first.

  • Jonnydread
    replied
    I saw this post on r/Paintball this morning, I was wondering if it would pop up over here. Funky build and quite well thought out, you clearly put time into this. My advice is don't be overly concerned with lower your operating pressure, lower pressure does not always mean better performance and some guns are more reliable with higher pressures.

    Leave a comment:


  • devilzcall
    started a topic Mostly 3D printed SPump

    Mostly 3D printed SPump

    Hi there, I'm new here.

    I wanted to show my work in progress speedster pump conversion. This place is an absolute goldmine for spump inspiration, thank you so much for that.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220120_154718_226.jpg Views:	186 Size:	1.93 MB ID:	219208

    First some backdrop on this marker:
    It is a Umarex branded Pro-Toyz speedster, and as far as I know a direct spyder clone. I got it for 30€ at a flea market a few years back and it actually got me into paintball. It has been missing a few parts from the start and I replaced the Hammer back cap with a printed piece that is only now showing signs of wear.
    Because I have no access to heavier tools than a dremel and also less access (and unwillingness to pay for) common cocker/trilly parts but a passion for 3d Printing and CAD design, this conversion takes a few unique turns.

    Here are all the modified/new pieces parted out:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220120_155029_789.jpg Views:	165 Size:	2.56 MB ID:	219211

    - The pumpgrip is off my own design. With the right reference I would like to make it cocker compatible before I upload the files for this conversion.

    - The pump rod is a piece of threaded m5 rod with a brass sleeve to avoid scratching and snagging on things. I'll pick up some stainless rod on my next trip to the hardware store.

    - The pump guide consists of 10mm aluminium tube and a 3d printed base. I was not keen on sourcing a trillogy pumpkit to germany and this actually holds the 500-800psi coming from my bottle. If I redo this piece, I'll make the rod 8mm in diameter to accept a linear bearing on the pumpgrip side, but this is quite smooth.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220120_155058_695.jpg Views:	164 Size:	2.48 MB ID:	219210

    - The bolt has a printed extension attached. Conveniently it already had a screw port on the back that would hold a plastic sleeve to avoid metal on metal contact. Important to note is the print orientation, as you would usually print a round part like this upright; however I opted to cut away part of the cylindrical surface to print it flat for significantly higher tensile strength.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220120_155118_862.jpg Views:	219 Size:	2.43 MB ID:	219207

    - Lastly the hammer. I spent 2-3 hours grinding away on the hardened steel hammer with my dremel and a stone bit before giving up. This hammer is printed flat in a similar manner to the bolt and uses an m5 screw as a striking surface and weight. It is still very lightweight and woll probably bite my arse when I try to convert to low pressure, but for now It works just fine. I can see the rear portion breaking when you fire it with the bolt not quite forward or the sear surface wearing down over a few dozen trigger pulls, but I guess I'll just print a bunch for my next game day. If it doesn't work out in the long run, I'll send the original and/or my cad modell to a friend that works in a machine shop.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220120_155205_565.jpg Views:	165 Size:	2.01 MB ID:	219212

    The Entire action is exceptionally smooth, but my pump experience so far has been with (quite heavy) spring powered nerf blasters.
    I haven't had a chance to chrony it or shoot actual paint through it, but it holds air and fires quite loudly. I'm concerned the hammer might be too light to get acceptable fps, but we'll see. If i can get my hands on some nice elbow fittings and macroline I can attach my PPS Fatty reg and work on converting this to LPA.

    If you have recommendations on where you get your pneumatics within the EU, I'm curious. Other than that, tell me if you think mixing HPA and 3D printing like this is reckless.

    Last edited by devilzcall; 04-11-2022, 06:30 PM.
Working...
X