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DIY Custom RIT dye job.

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    DIY Custom RIT dye job.

    So I have been messing around with RIT synthetic dye. Figured I do a write up on what I have learned so far.

    I have successfully done a few dye jobs. My latest I attempted to add a pattern to a set of JT frames. But anything for the most part takes color as long as you go darker.

    So first thing you want to do is separate the foam from the frames. This is done by pulling back on the foam and using A sharp blade to trim the glue. I always like to take the extra step and remove the foam so that The dye doesn’t get trapped in the foam and ruin headgear. It’s easier just to glue it back on after you’re done.

    You will need a large stainless pot that you can boil enough water in to submerge whatever part that you want to dye in completely. It’s important that it’s deep enough so that the part does not touch the bottom and get too hot.

    Then you basically Boil a big pot of water then add the dye per the directions and a small amount of dish detergent like Dawn. Once it’s boiling I like to shut the heat off this way it doesn’t get too hot I then add Dye soap and stir.

    You will want some thing to hold whatever it is you’re dying But you don’t want it to Touch the bottom. For the frames I use a 10 Penny nail Threw the visor hole in the frames.

    The frames are prepped with some vinyl that I found online for Cerokote. I figured the thicker high temperature vinyl would be better against the boiling hot water then your basic vinyl pattern. It held up OK but started to fade around the edges where the vinyl lifted after dipping it in the boiling water. It takes approximately 30 to 60 seconds to take color. You can do all kinds of colors as long as it’s darker. You can mix-and-match to get the look you are going for.

    After you dip them I like to run them under some water clean all the day off and then dry them and let them sit. Then you just superglue the foam back on and remover the vinyl in my case.

    I’m pretty happy how these came out I want to try some silicone next time I feel like it will give a bit cleaner lines.

    But check them out.

    #2
    Attached Files

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      #3
      This is a set of very yellowed clears I did awhile back as well.

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        #4
        These came out a lil darker then I wanted I was going for maroon but used a lil to much blue. But they match my team jersey pretty good.

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          #5
          Highlighter yellow pro shields I did in maroon. These you had to get real hot to take color. When I first and they came out kind of green. So I got the water super hot and it ended up taking color pretty good.

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            #6

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              #7
              Those came out great! Gonna add this to the list to try.
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                #8
                That’s some awesome work. I used rubber tire paint pens customize my fav mask.

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                  #9
                  I want to see a revy dyed

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                    #10
                    I forgot all about that what color should I do. I got a clear shell already to. I’m thinking red since most of my stuff is red and black.

                    I just got an email to for PB retro they got a bunch of white frames in. So I could make any color JT frame now. I might attempt a splash color pattern with some hot glue or silicone pattern.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky View Post
                      I forgot all about that what color should I do. I got a clear shell already to. I’m thinking red since most of my stuff is red and black.

                      I just got an email to for PB retro they got a bunch of white frames in. So I could make any color JT frame now. I might attempt a splash color pattern with some hot glue or silicone pattern.
                      Try experimenting with fades. There was a write up on Facebook by a fella who made his white hopper blend with his pink lady colored autococker. I believe he may even be a user here, saw the same gun in the autococker contest.
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                        #12
                        Fades are pretty easy just need to have a steady hand and good gloves that keep the heat off your hands. You gradually pull it out of the dye. Some plastics do take color better then others. Like proshield bottoms need a lot of heat. Almost to the point of melting. Maybe a red to black fade on a pair of frames would look cool. I could probably fade or splash the clear red frames I dyed already.

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                        #13
                        Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky View Post
                        I forgot all about that what color should I do. I got a clear shell already to. I’m thinking red since most of my stuff is red and black.

                        I just got an email to for PB retro they got a bunch of white frames in. So I could make any color JT frame now. I might attempt a splash color pattern with some hot glue or silicone pattern.
                        Purple

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                          #14
                          Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky View Post
                          Fades are pretty easy just need to have a steady hand and good gloves that keep the heat off your hands. You gradually pull it out of the dye. Some plastics do take color better then others. Like proshield bottoms need a lot of heat. Almost to the point of melting. Maybe a red to black fade on a pair of frames would look cool. I could probably fade or splash the clear red frames I dyed already.
                          How well does the plastic hold up to the heat if you’re in the upper temp range? Do the frames and bottoms deform? Early signs of failure? Curious because the age of some of these JT masks paired with natural degradation of the materials.
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                            #15
                            The dyed pieces are still just as flexible as they would normally be. You don’t need to get those very hot at all. The harder and darker the plastic the harder it seems to take color.

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