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I've never seen another maker farm machine in the wild! that looks like the 12 inch i3v? same one I have. I'm converting mine to direct drive, and i dropped a little tiny nema 17 or something on it. finally got around to putting a full size 12 inch glass bed on too, but now i'm thinking i messed up and i should have looked to see if anyone makes a 12 pei smooth sheet.
Is your heat plate warped to hell as mine is?? the only thing i could come up with was packing it with foam core underneath, which also acts as insulation -
Ratzkie, mine is a 10" i3v. I kind of like the glass; I use it for different types of filament and switch back and forth from coated creality sheet to plain glass Creality sheet because they are both 4mm thick. Be sure and see the pictures in my bed temperature thread around here. I just use a couple layers of foil under my bed. My son had stuffed a half of a oven mitt under it, which warped it a lot. Taking out the mitt and using thick glass makes it very flat, just slow to heat up. I added the later groove to the outside bearing seat in the extruder base and a longer lip on that rim, so lmk if you want it. I also discovered that the makerfarm base was teflon tube ready (mostly). With the new slicers able to program around the z-steps, it runs pretty well once you figure out what it is supposed to be doing. This one was a bit of a kludge of metric, imperial, and ansi sizes, so some things didn't fit quite right in its younger days.
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Earlier this week, our 2021 family ornament was finished including paint and assembly.
My most complex and long print yet finished up early this morning. A Xenomorph warrior drone for a gift. Lesson learned: more perimeters and don’t fret about the extra time needed.
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I've been rebuilding azodin KP 3s. These seals have been working perfectly so far (5 regs).
Then I made a lens holder for my shaving kit magnifier.
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Well, after a short hiatus from printing due to various issues. I decided I ought to get this beast back up and running this winter to keep myself going.
I was talking bed adhesion issues with a buddy last weekend. He suggested I flip my ender 3 glass bed over and print on the raw glass. last night I cleaned the space around my printer off, adjusted the extruder tension, re leveled the bed, and started a print. I printed a cup holder spacer for my wife to drink yerbae cans in her car. Due to poor adhesion issues in past, I had the bed at 60c, nozzel at 223.
I noticed the bed seemed high in the fact that my first layer was very thin. But I let it print anyways.
This son of a B was so stuck down this morning with a room temp bed, I was scared to get it free. When I did I noticed a glass like finish on the part.
That being said, Im trying a rocket mold half now as I need to make me some rockets!
I brought all 4 corners of the bed down one notch this morning and tried a print. Still seems like my bed is high up front, but I got a good enough firdt layer. Ill drop the bed more next print.
This one Im at 52* bed temp, 205 nozzel and it seems to be working.
But something I cant seem to identify I need your advice on. This has been a common issue on all prints since Ive gotten this printer.
Notice the random thin spots in that layer? You can see it did that every layer. No matter what settings I mess with, nozzel, temp, speeds, ect. I always get those random thin spots.
Im starting to think its my extruder failing to feed at times. I think I need to upgrade my extruder tensioner assembly to a metal one and or print a direct drive head assembly? Any opinions? Seems to be specifically when infilling solid layers at a 45. Could it be something else like gantry crab? Belt tensions? I dunno. But Im happy to be able to lay filament again none the less.
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Oof I get not wanting to give away a source file, but I can't see a gcode file just working on any printer. I change filament settings often at least.
There's a wiki for gcodes. You can look up the extrude rate setting code, put the guide in a text editor and replace the rates that are too fast. Set them to something useable but unique so that you can find them again.
Isn't there a import feature on slicer for gcodes? That would let you change the settings. I'll have to check that.
BrickHaus, SuperSlicer comes with a gcodeviewer[.exe]. Open the gcode in that, then export it as .obj file. You can then import that into slicer (probably others) and adjust the settings as you please. Maybe you have another separate gcode viewer. -
not having the source file to be able to slice your own is a pain. as mentioned in another comment you can look up the codes and go in and tweak the settings, but it takes time. if you haven't been printing in a while, I would try upping the temp to 210 and see if that helps smooth things out. old filament sucks up moisture like nothing else. if you hear it popping after turning it up, that's the nozzle boiling off water in the filament. drop the entire roll in the oven at 100 degrees for like two hours. -
I do have the .stl as well, but I wanted to see if my printer would handle running his file.
Needless to say,my nozzle was too low. First layer super adhered. Ad I ended up delamenating the part trying to get it off the bed.
The skins all look great, but my infills are still weak. I really think I gotta mess with my extruder, but I need to have the free time to tinkee to figure it out.
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After 3 failed attempts, I got one that only missed a few strings. Made a side mount spool holder to hopefully help my printers ability to feed consistantly.
Failed another print after the fact, but I have a calibration cube going now.Comment
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First pass on a phantom pump kit I think I'm going to relocate the passenger side guide rod and beef it up. I'll probably just start over and use this for reference.
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Finally got my bench top power supply complete.
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Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...
XEMON's phantom double sided feed
Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
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I designed it from scratch.
I've been thinking of making a clean one (cleaner than my last one 😅) for a while, the last one was done in a hurry ...
Got -12, grn, +3.3, +5 and +12 on the left
And 0-30v 0-4A CC-CV on the right
The 3 USB plugs are on the standby so they are powered all the time.
This particular power supply is a bit fancier than standard ATX because it has 2 independent 12v output (18Aeach). One goes to the 12v post, the other to the CC-CV controller
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It took me a whole day but I printed a calibration cube that was correct.
I finally upgraded to a 32-bit main board with 2209 stepper drivers and touch screen display. And because of Big Tree Tech so so r&d and mess of a GitHub page. I am now versed in vs code and flashing firmware hahaha. Took me more than a couple times to get the firmware right.
Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
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Tried a hinged cal cube. This one " works" but I still get these missed lines in my prints even when they start great.
I think this was turned down to 25mm/s and I feel thats as slow as I should have to go unless something is wrong.
Now, I wanted to see if this was filament specific. So I loaded my natural (clear) pla which Ive never been able to print well.
I didnt snap a pic, but the clear cube looked nice, but the hinge was fused. Still had random limes missed in the print. And it broke when I tried to free the hinge up.
from what Ive been able to study, extruder nozzle clog, or firmware may be working against me, but Im honestly not sure. Any tips from this print image?Comment
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BrickHaus I have one particular roll of material that almost always prints like this (it's pink PETG, for whatever reason). First off, I dried it in the dehydrator for several hours, but that didn't help at all. I haven't tried too hard to figure out why, but one of the things I was going to check is whether the diameter of the filament is consistent. I figure if the diameter gets especially small in spots, it could be the cause of the "skipped" areas.Rainmaker's feedback: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...maker-feedback
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Rainmaker, Thanks for replying!! Ill do some more digging on it. My big issue is I have struggled to get decent prints consistantly out of my printer ever( short of the mech ion mounts I made up for Jordan.) So when my prints fail, I lean towards the printer being at fault.
I currently only have 3 rolls of filament. Black Inland pla+, magenta inland pla+ ( purchased on the same day) And an even older roll of inland natural pla.
I havent tried magenta since this last pile of variable changes, but for this cube i seem to have simular issues between both filaments used. I ran the same program, swapped filaments, and manually turned the nozzel temp up for the clear as it has a higher temp range. Same missed lines, and the hinge fused on the clear as I had it too hot.
Ill dig the pieces out of the garbage and take a pic of it tonight.
Thats why I just think, theres another issue Im missing.
Im gonna see if my extruder wheels are dirty, and potentially get a metal extruder assembly or a nice extruder thatll take tpu and such better, but I dunno the information on these upgrades is almost too vast, I spend my coffee break researching stuff and I walk away more lost then when I started researching.
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I figured this would give you all a laugh. I printed this rocket mold last week, its the one that delamed on me. The top skins were still usable so I pumped clear pla into the weak and stringy infill with a printer pen. Its hideous but I maybe able to use it now! Lmao.Comment
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Also, figured Id get ambitious and attempt to print another mold half in natural. Only to realize the file I selected is my old modified dual mold file ( which I have gotten one usable mod out of.) Its got a few flaws, but I believe I have 7 bommom layers so it should bridge that and I can always hit it with the pen.
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Well, bout what I expected. Woke up to these faiped parts, but honestly Im pretty surprised it laid a good base.
I got some large dessicant packs at work. Im gonna bring a couple home and vacuum my filaments up with em to see what happens.
The wife will likely have a fit if I toss em in the oven. And she works from home, so no sneaking that by.Comment
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My first paintball related print, Rainmaker phantom reverse feed moded for a 2 screw spyder
I think a thicker wall and slower print could get it smoother but still not too bad I guess
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