instagram takipci satin al - instagram takipci satin al mobil odeme - takipci satin al

bahis siteleri - deneme bonusu - casino siteleri

bahis siteleri - kacak bahis - canli bahis

goldenbahis - makrobet - cepbahis

cratosslot - cratosslot giris - cratosslot

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Bed adhesion issue

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Bed adhesion issue

    I bough some time ago a used Ender 5 and got some time yesterday to try it.
    setup: Ender 5, brand new crealty glass bed bough by me, old PLA that came with the printer (1/2 roll), unmarked nozzle but look like 0.4, stick bowden tube, cura 4.11 slicer, 50C bed temp and 200 nozzle temp, standard parameter, ambient temp 20C (its snow season up here)

    First print got 3 layel completed and then part unstick from the bed
    Re-did the leveling 3 time with a piece of paper and placed tape at the perimeter under the glass bed (seem to have a high spot at the center of the bed)
    Raised the bed temp to 55 (I dont have an infrared thermometer but bed does not seem to be at 55 from touch...) and cleaned plate with isopropil 70% alcool
    2nd try parts wont stick... at all

    3rd
    Used some glue on the surface
    changed the slicer parameter to run slightly slower
    was able to run 1/2 of my 20mm test cube
    One corner was lifting after 2 layer and unstick after 10mm height

    Did many other test trying to play with temp and cura parameter but no luck... lost 3 hours trying...
    i am currently changing the extruder to all metal and install capicon bowden tube to see if it will help


    Should I buy marked nozzle to be sure?
    Should I change the PLA roll?

    I know Rainmaker praise PEI sheet but not sure which one should I used (PEI on spring steel)

    Thanks for you help and sorry for another newb post on bed stick issue...

    #2
    In my humble opinion glass is archaic. I exclusively use the OEM style or Buildtac textured sheets or PEI spring steel. The painters tape and glue stick ordeal is just so much more labor intensive. Have you done a good preheat 10 minutes or so? The heating element on stock machines is kind of anemic especially when you're trying to warm up a sheet of glass.

    I'd say if you have the texture sheet give that a nice hot soapy water cleaning let it dry and give that a run. Or if you don't have that clean the glass and give it an extra long preheat if you hadn't yet.



    Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk



    Comment


      #3
      Alex!!!! Welcome to every novice printsmith's favorite problem: bed adhesion!

      First off, ditch that old half roll of junk filament. That might be your entire problem right there. The stuff that comes with the printer is often not great to begin with. And if it's an old to that's not been in a controlled environment it's whole life, it's definitely absorbed some moisture. Get a fresh roll, and once you open the vacuum bag, keep it in an airtight bag (ie. Zip lock) with some desiccant when you're not printing.

      Other things to try:
      - bump up the bed temp some more. Don't be afraid to bump it to 65 or 70 for PLA, and even higher if you go for some PETG or ABS. I pretty much always run my PLA at 65c for the bed.

      - when cleaning with isopropyl, I've found it can leave a residue. So I'll usually use a damp microfiber cloth to clean the bed AFTER I wipe it down with isopropyl. Also, cleaning the bed while it's HOT seems to help. Typically when I run a print, if I feel like my bed needs a cleaning, I do this:
      - start the print (bed starts heating)
      - when bed is warm to touch, wipe it with isopropyl and a paper towel
      - wipe bed with damp microfiber. At this point, the bed is hot enough that the damp cloth gives off a little water vapor while wiping.

      - if you do go with a PEI sheet, just get the right size sheet from Gizmodorks. It's a peel and stick sheet, just place it right on top of the stock Ender glass bed, and re-level the bed.

      - glue is a last resort for me anymore, but I used to use it all the time. The purple Elmer's glue sticks worked best for me. Apply the glue when the bed is HOT for best results.

      Comment


      • Alexndl

        Alexndl

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks for the input
        For the PEI sheet I see two thickness available
        Should I get 0.5mm or 1mm (and trim to fit since the size does not fit my print bed)?

      #4
      Also, the best microfiber cloths ever made, IMO, are from a company called Norwex. They wipe oils off of flat surfaces like nobody's business.

      Comment


        #5
        Flip theglass sheet over quick. I have an ender v2 and I have always struggled with adhesion. If anything its too sticky now and I gotta figure out how to get parts off of it. But it may keep ya printing today.

        Comment


        • BrickHaus

          BrickHaus

          commented
          Editing a comment
          Okay, i will say the bed seems almost perfect with the glass flipped. I was getting overly stuck because my initial layer was too squished. Parts adhere down to 50* now and pop off after the print has cooled.

        #6
        If you want to try and salvage the PLA perhaps try drying it in your oven before printing with it. In my experience keeping your filaments as dry as possible and matching your print bed material to the filament that is being printed can be game changers in bed adhesion and print quality. just my 2 cents if it helps you at all.

        Comment


        • Alexndl

          Alexndl

          commented
          Editing a comment
          I though about it too. Any suggestion on temperature and time?
          Quick google say 4 hour at 120F?

        #7
        Its worth a shot. Unfortunately I wont be able to give much insight into the oven dry method other than I have heard it works well. I use a filament dehydrator set at 55 c as the PLA part(s) is printing so the 120F for 4 hours in the oven should be adequate.

        Comment


          #8
          I use a food dehydrator but unless you live in a superhuman environment pla usually isn't too bad

          Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk

          Comment


            #9
            Update
            Tried a new roll of PLA+ on the glass bed with no change in adhesion
            flipped the bed upside down, was better but failed mid print

            Ditched the glass bed...
            the previous owner was not good wirt setup and the original magnetic bed was damaged at several point from collision with the nozzle... sanded the high spot (yep it was THAT bad), did the levelling the best that I could and...

            Printed two parts with no issue...

            Here is the strain relief I made for the heated cable
            PLA+ 220C nozzle 60C stock parameter for speed and else
            Click image for larger version  Name:	20220110_001513.jpg Views:	0 Size:	350.4 KB ID:	215320 Click image for larger version  Name:	20220110_001609.jpg Views:	0 Size:	214.3 KB ID:	215321

            Tonight I am trying the Rainmaker reverse feed setup for my spyder pistol
            Rainmaker, do you used support for it printing standing up? (Not sure it need a lot)

            Comment


            • Rainmaker

              Rainmaker

              commented
              Editing a comment
              Sweet!! Glad you got some prints to finally stick!

              As far as the reverse feed, you shouldn't need any supports. Just print it with the feed tube side on the bed, and make sure your first layer looks good
          Working...
          X