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Help with stripped screw

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    Help with stripped screw

    There is this 6/32 x 1/8” screw that holds in the base of the feedneck on the T2.

    Unfortunately the hex head was stripped so I couldn’t get it out normally. I’ve tried an EZ-out and filing a slot in the head to try and get it out, but it won’t budge. I think I’ve made it worse and don’t know what to do now.

    Is there anyone I could send it to to get it out for me? I’m worried if I try doing any more I’m going to F it up for good. Any advice is appreciated.


    #2
    Another maybe better view

    Comment


      #3
      Home Depot sells "Speed Out" extractors that are stubby LH drills on one side, extractors on the other. The drill (in reverse, naturally) usually does me right in no time flat.
      Feedback: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...eedback-thread

      Comment


      • ketzer7

        ketzer7

        commented
        Editing a comment
        I’ve seen these but they all looked too big for the hole that used to be the hex keying on the head. I can try looking again.

      • flyweightnate

        flyweightnate

        commented
        Editing a comment
        The left hand drill side will bite hard into what's left of the hex socket, and create its own slot to back the screw out. I used one on a 2-56 set screw last week!

      • Brokeass_baller
        Brokeass_baller commented
        Editing a comment
        I think speed outs are 5/16 or 3/8 hex. They work great, I have two sets. But I think that's too wide and might hit the feed neck.

      #4
      I might try throwing it in the freezer for a couple hours. Then try more of what you were doing. Does it have loctite on it?

      Comment


      • ketzer7

        ketzer7

        commented
        Editing a comment
        Can’t be certain but the other screw wasn’t Loctited. I even tried my heat gun on it and that didn’t do anything either

      #5
      Drill Press with good vice; pilot drill it down the center , then re-drill with the correct bit for threads and re-tap threads is what I would do at this point.

      6-32 tap uses #36 drill bit


      "When you are asked if you can do a job, tell 'em, 'Certainly I can!' Then get busy and find out how to do it." - Theodore Roosevelt

      Feedback Link - https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...del-s-feedback

      Comment


        #6
        If all else fails, i try putting it in the freezer or boiling in hot water for a bit, then take a small punch and carefully beat the punch tip with a hammer in the direction you want the screw to go to loosen it, did that with a very beat up screw head on my rt pro and it worked

        Comment


          #7
          Soldering iron tip to the screw head… I almost didn’t believe how easy an Allen screw came off with a minute under the soldering iron.

          Comment


            #8
            It looks like the broken piece is sticking above the body. Can you grab a dremel, cut a clit on top to use a flat head to back it out.

            Comment


            • Ecapnation

              Ecapnation

              commented
              Editing a comment
              Cut a what now? Lol

            • FredMnkyDad10

              FredMnkyDad10

              commented
              Editing a comment
              Hahahahaha wow now that is one crazy autocorrect. I was going to edit but hell, it is still correct. Both are just a gash. One you want to cut, the other drill into.

            • flyweightnate

              flyweightnate

              commented
              Editing a comment
              So... Fred's into S&M. Calling MAr...

            #9
            I think you need a drill press at this point. That soldering iron tip isn't a bad idea to try. But dremeling or anything else, you run the risk of accidentally hitting the body or feed neck and making a nice new scratch. The bolt is just too low. I'm sure any number of our airsmiths here on MCB can get it out for you.
            Feedback

            Comment


              #10
              That soldering iron tip idea sounds interesting. Never heard that one. I have a couple stripped screws as well (though mine are countersunk ). Might just try that.
              New Feedback

              Comment


                #11
                ive used the s-iron before on other things. a blunt tip transfers the heat better than a pointy tip.
                make sure the iron is cranked up or look up the pre-set heat spec to see if it gets hot enough.
                you have to hold it firmly in the screw for a little longer than you're thinking.

                you could do both. freezer and then iron, give it the 'ol one two... lol

                if the head of the screw broke because it was so tight, an easy out might also break.

                heat works well on things like this pretty good.


                looks like you already tried to cut a flathead into it as well as drill out the center.

                you need drill bits specifically for metal if youre going that route.

                Comment


                  #12
                  shocking it works very well too. hit the back of the screwdriver right as you turn it. just dont deform the tube.

                  Comment


                    #13
                    Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I ended up getting a DeWalt speedout set at Home Depot yesterday, and using the #1 bit in my impact drill. I tried the LH drill side first and that didn't do anything, so I turned it over and used the spiral side, and voila, in less than 2 seconds it was out without damaging anything. Thanks flyweightnate for that idea. I didn't think to try it originally because I had already bought a set of full size EZ out extractors and those didn't work, so I didn't think the speedout bits would either. Lesson learned

                    Comment


                      #14
                      I've also had luck with a chunk of hard rubber and using a drill. Use the drill to spin the rubber at high speed and it usually is enough to spin off most normal screws that aren't glued in. Works better than the eraser trick and you only destroy the rubber.

                      Comment

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