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    B2K4 ups?

    I have a B2K4 with PDS that I got in a box of PB bits and masks earlier this year. Threw an Empire reg on it since it was on hand already.

    I’ve read through some upgrade threads on PBN (https://www.pbnation.com/showthread....8#post29472238)
    • A clamping feedneck is a must since it still has the old stovepipe. The threads are 13/16” x 32 tpi per the link above, but which “standard” named thread is that (I.e. for which gun)?
    • I’ll also get an on/off asa.
    • I have the stock barrel, but the B2K4 is A/C threaded, so I have barrel upgrades covered.
    • There are wires that have broken and one switch is bad. Already have the replacements.
    Anything else that really needs upgrading? Guessing everything else is stock.

    Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
    “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

    #2
    My understanding is the LPR is garbage

    Comment


    • Ecapnation

      Ecapnation

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Lpr's weren't terrible.....

      Hpr's though were garbage

    • lhamilton1807
      lhamilton1807 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks gents. I had read about the HPR problems. Glad I had one on hand.

    #3
    So, technically the ICD feednecks are a different thread, but ION threaded feednecks can work, and is often what is sold under the "ICD" thread option. AKA, CP if you can find them, and Inception Designs empire style stub (I found one on eBay) are all good choices.

    LPRs can be jank. They are prone to creep if not taken care of. If you're going to keep it, snag a minor rebuild kit from ICD themselves: http://www.indiancreekdesigninc.com/...or-rebuild-kit
    It will come with replacement springs for the LPR that should help out with any issues. Honestly, I ran the stock LPR on my B2Ks and never had an issue, it was always the HPR that was bad. Again AKA is the go-to here. MacDev also made one, but those are rarer and costly.

    It was pretty common to replace the LED with something brighter, but that's personal preference.

    Cutting down the back end of the stock bolt was common. It's not much, but it is some weight savings on parts that move.

    Take apart and polish the ram and hammer. Some folks added holes to the ram sleeve with the claim that it increased efficiency/speed, but YMMV

    If you can find them, there are a few aftermarket valves out there. They did increase flow so you could lower operating pressure, but again, rare and now pricey.

    If you want something other than uncapped semi, Vaporworks still sells the Chaos board. Very nice board that is fully programmable.

    Finally, the coup-de-grace, the Trayless Kit by BlueForks. Awesome kit, basically turned B2Ks into something even shorter than the promaster, very rare, very expensive, and highly sought after.
    Last edited by zinger565; 11-28-2022, 07:42 AM. Reason: forgot about the chaos board
    MCB Feedback

    Comment


    • Myrkul

      Myrkul

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Zinger565 Covered nearly all of it, couple additional things to add:

      Last time I called Palmers (About a year ago) they were able to set me up with a Rock LPR & Adapter, so that's another LPR option. It used to be listed on their website but they pulled it a few years ago so you have to call. I've had bad luck with the stock LPRs.

      Here is a link to the Chaos board: https://www.vaporworks.net/?product=icd-chaos-board

      Finally, here is the tuning guide I wrote for these: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...ng-paint-fixes

      I can't stress the tuning guide enough, it changed my b2ks from blenders into unholy terrors. I've followed that guide for 4 b2ks at this point, and none of them have broken a paintball 10 cases later. It's tiny paint too.

    • Meleager7

      Meleager7

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Hi zinger565, is the Inception Designs empire style stub the same thread as ICD Bushmaster / Defiant feedneck thread? Helion said it was, but I wanted to hear one more similar opinion before buying one, cheers, M7
      Last edited by Meleager7; 11-28-2022, 04:15 PM.

    • zinger565

      zinger565

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Oh, Myrkul 's tuning guide reminded me:

      If you're having issues with the o-ring detents being too soft or constantly shooting out, we used to slice a thin piece of macroline off and stick it inside of the oring. Stiffens up the detent quite a bit.

    #4
    Myrkul the writeup is where I will start - thank you! The Chaos board looks like a great option! I’ll start with the stock lpr and board just to make sure it’ll function and move on from there to tuning and upgrades/parts if she plays nice.

    The neck stubs look like they’re meant for adapting ICD feed necks to other markers, not the other way around. I’ve had good luck w the CP feed necks, and will probably add one to my next order from ANS.
    Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
    “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

    Comment


      #5
      As far as easy to find upgrades go, get yourself a Chaos board from Vapoworks. They still make them, but it's a one man show. So be patient if he's out of stock. He'll get more in.

      And an AKA SCMIII. They still make them.

      On the more difficult used market, Vapor bolts are nice. Vapor/ebay valves are nice. And the GBR ram, though extremely rare, is VERY nice. Think Automag Lvl 10 anti-chop, but in the ram.

      ​​​​​
      Feedback

      Comment


        #6
        send it for laser etching, get "tits" above the power switch and "lasers" above the eye switch.

        Comment


          #7
          My personal upgrade list, in order:
          HPR (required)
          clamping feedneck (required)
          barrel
          LPR (if applicable)
          on/off ASA

          Most internal parts are going to be expensive, as many of them can be hard to find & are sometimes hoarded. The bolt & ram really don't NEED an upgrade, as the stock ram works just fine & the stock bolt is already plastic. Last I knew barrels are relatively cheap for ICD threaded paintguns. (EDIT: nevermind, this is AC threaded) Pretty much any clamping ICD threaded feedneck will do, but CCM necks can come in different heights if that appeals to you. For the LPR AKA is the gold standard for ICD electros, but I haven't had many issues with the stock LPRs. Low priority in my opinion, but replace if it fails. For valves your mileage may vary. I personally don't think it's a requirement. In my opinion the HPR & feedneck should be the main priorities. I like using the factory guts & I tune mine in accordance with the manual. Works every time. Obviously, using aftermarket guts will require different tuning.

          If you're on the Facebag hit up the ICD Owners group (ICDO). They have some neat stuff & you might be able to source some specific parts there, but it probably won't be cheap. Good luck finding a T2 trayless kit. I've seen only a few here & there and always at obscene prices. Maybe someone should 3D print one...

          Like zinger565 said, you can cut down the back of the bolt. To add to that, you could cut a fair bit off the back of the top tube to also take some body weight off. Look up a pic of the Lasoya Promaster to get a general idea.

          If you're having issues with the detents & zinger's fix doesn't work out for you, you might be able to find someone on the Facebag to do an autococker detent mod for it.
          New Feedback

          Comment


            #8
            I have a gloss black CP on/off on my PMR, but just bought a blue dust one to replace it (matches the PMR color scheme better anyway), and that’ll free up the black one to go on the b2k4 - simply need a dovetail rail. I’m in talks with Gary at ICD and he’s working on getting a clamping feed neck in ICD threads - they’re out of stock right now online, but he’s searching through boxes & bins for me. Great guy. Otherwise I will probably go with a gloss black CP feed neck. Aside from new seals and springs from the aforementioned minor rebuild kit, I plan to keep the stock internals for now, polishing as recommended. Chaos board will come later after I’ve rebuilt the brittle wiring harness. Vapor works has harnesses for sale, but I don’t want to drop $40 on a harness I could build myself.

            I’ll check out the icdo - thanks for the tip! I’m very much looking forward to this winter project.
            Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
            “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

            Comment


            • Meleager7

              Meleager7

              commented
              Editing a comment
              which gloss CP feedneck thread type are you going to order? If you do get one, can you post here if it works out ok?

            • lhamilton1807
              lhamilton1807 commented
              Editing a comment
              I understand the Impulse/Ion feednecks will work. I’ll make a purchase soon.

            #9
            Anyone know the email address for vaporworks? Their website has a “Contact Us” page, but it doesn’t contain a form or any contact info.
            [wpforms id="273" description="true" title="true"] Please use the contact form below, if you have any general questions or requests about our services.
            Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
            “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

            Comment


              #10
              Originally posted by lhamilton1807 View Post
              Anyone know the email address for vaporworks? Their website has a “Contact Us” page, but it doesn’t contain a form or any contact info.
              https://www.vaporworks.net/?page_id=204
              Message Sam Smock on Facebook. He's in the ICDO group. He is Vapoworks, and he's quick to reply on FB.
              Feedback

              Comment


              • lhamilton1807
                lhamilton1807 commented
                Editing a comment
                So far not all that quick to reply… but I’ve learned his bolts and valves are no longer made. I’ll probably pick up a used vapor bolt at some point, maybe once it’s working.

              #11
              Meleager7 Here's a thread chart I have that will help.

              Click image for larger version

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              FEEDBACK - https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...k-for-scottieb

              Comment


                #12
                Doing some research - does the wiring harness use the standard 2.54mm DuPont pins? Ribbon Kits on eBay seem pretty cheap - just a few bucks will get a ribbon of 40 wires with connectors. one could pop the pins out and insert them int pi the stock connector, up the wires to length, and re-solder.
                Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky:
                “You don’t need a safety keep your booger hook on the bang switch.​“

                Comment


                  #13
                  They are not DuPont 2.54mm pins. Here's a copy and paste from an older post I made on the subject:

                  You are looking for Molex Milli-Grid connectors. They are spaced at 2.0mm. Here are some links from Digikey:

                  Crimp Terminals

                  Pre-crimped Wires

                  Comment

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