What causes weak clappers

[Trbo323]

So, I've run through all the normal things but I still have 2 spyder-ish frames that have weak clapper noids, maybe a fresh brain will have an idea I have not

Frame 1) spyder, pretty run of the mill. I've replaced the capacitor, still weak. Running on a brand new Amazon 9v. I have 3 other frames running on these same batteries without problem

Frame 2) Diablo mongoose 2. New main board, upper LCD screen works but is dim. Replaced the capacitor, brand new 9.6v rechargable. Works a little on and off. Some shots are strong enough to release the hammer, others are not.

Ideas?

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[Toestr]

I'm no electronics expert but iirc the coils degrade with use.

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[Trbo323]

I'm no electronics expert but iirc the coils degrade with use.

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So the clappers themselves? I might be able to check that on the spyder frame. I think I have a spare clapper somewhereIf I remember right the mongoose uses a slightly different size so I may not be able to swap that one out

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[latches109]

get your multimeter out and test everything.
test the new caps before installing them. I had two brand new washing machine capacitors out of the box doa.
check the clapper noid ohms
test the battery
test the board output at the caps solder points when caps are disconnected

YouTube it if you don’t know, doesn’t need to be a paintball specific video. Plenty on how to test capacitors and solenoids.

[Seajay]

The clapper noids do degrade, but it could also be the boards are failing. They are pretty old at this point. Solder and circuits degrade over time, not just from use. Reflowing the boards is a trick to fix weakening connections, this is the "oven trick" where you try to warm the solder up enough for it to "reflow".
The professional method is far more effective of course, while the oven method doesn't always work or is temporary. Also don't use that oven to cook food again if you try this.

[Trbo323]

Thanks for the input guys, I'll try a new clapper on the spyder board. Not sure what to do about the mongoose

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