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Chuck E Ducky’s Mag Build

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    Chuck E Ducky’s Mag Build

    So I have shot a few mags In my day but never owned or built one of my own. I had the opportunity to snag a very unique body and the fore grip to match. So I’m jumping in with both feet. Figured I would document my build as I put it together and collect the parts I need.

    The start of something cool. I plan on going with something flashy maybe a bright red on all the aluminum bits maybe have Bearfoot do some laser engraving. Still gathering parts.

    Who makes the best detents any recommendations from the mag pros? Rebuildable would be cool as I want to color match them.

    Anyone know what size screws and bits I’m going to need to mount the frame? Keith Was saying there’s a brass collar I will need to mount the rail.

    I have a Pops ASA probably just going to do the big loop up to the valve for air supply. Should I dove tail the frame or just use the PE mount of the bottom. I’m not dead set on the pops maybe a BL cam drive or something.

    Attached Files

    #2
    Excellent body, looks like a real winner!

    I really like Nummech's ULE detents. They're adjustable and rebuildable. Doc also makes some very nice ones that are rebuildable as well.

    Grab the screws off of AGD's website for the frame: http://www.airgundesigns.com/category-s/103.htm
    The "brass collar" mention makes me think that the frame was drilled out for classic-RT banjo bolt in the back. The brass collar just allows you to use a regular field strip screw in the back. Might as well grab a rebuild kit or two to combine shipping.

    Given the mag's single tube size, I like a little bit of drop on the bottom line personally.

    Good luck, can't wait to see progress!!
    MCB Feedback

    Comment


      #3
      Looks heavy.

      Comment


        #4
        Very nice build you have going.

        What zinger said, the brass collar usually goes in the back hole of the frame, holds the frame, rail and valve. The only frames I have seen other than the AGD frame are PTP, and styx. This is to use with classic RT automag that use the banjo screw because the air line feeds through the rail. I have not seen any newer frame be drilling out for the classic RT automags, could have been special request, there are not a lot of demand.

        Doc's detents look good, can rebuild and ano. But you have to use two orings or thicker one.

        Comment


          #5
          Wait you can feed the valve from the bottom like threw the grip frame rail to the bottom of the valve?

          Dose that take a special collar or something for the valve? Can I use it on an Xvalve?

          Can I hide all that in the frame? my frame dose have a hole in the bottom for gas threw. (Or probably pneumatics trigger stuff.)

          Or is that only the Nummech frame. Speaking of that frame anyone got a single trigger one they want to sell? I got a bunch or unique stuff I could trade or pay handsomely.

          Comment


            #6
            Couple things If this is your first mag build, I would recommend sending it to someone to have setup before ano.

            Brass collar he is referring to is likely the rail bushing.

            I would recommend rebuildable detents that have a ball. Like the nummech ones.

            you are also missing field strip screw, body mount screw.
            BeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
            BW Youtube
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            BW Email
            I buy Automags and Mag Parts also.

            Comment


            • Chuck E Ducky

              Chuck E Ducky

              commented
              Editing a comment
              Yup that’s the plan I’m getting all the parts together and if I can’t figure it out myself I’m bringing it to ReaperBall to get setup properly. Before I do the cosmetic stuff.

            • superman

              superman

              commented
              Editing a comment
              I will also say you may want to avoid the pops as it has a small fitting on the front vs the inception which is similar and has a standard 1/8 npt fitting.

            #7
            Classic RT does not feed it through the frame. The air goes from the gas through foregrip and then back out into the rail. Usually if factory they have the top hardline like in the picture. The field strip screw you see in the picture is the banjo bold, second picture, that allows the air through the rail into the valve.

            I have not seen a nummench frame not show an airline. i think some are those are doing sleeper pneumag, similar to Luke's frames.
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • Chuck E Ducky

              Chuck E Ducky

              commented
              Editing a comment
              Ahh I see now. Yeah my forgrip isn’t not gas threw it’s going Asa to the valve. I got some nice looking leaky CCM fittings that are always a pain to get to seal.

            #8
            Oh I got some more goodies coming I’m super excited about. Will post some updates when it all comes in. But I got something I been hunting for.

            Comment


              #9
              The frame is setup for pnuemag parts including a lpr. At reaperball we can swipe Sterlings pnuemag for you see how those feel.

              Comment


                #10
                This thing already looks great the way it setup. Wonder and cant wait to see your goodies.

                Comment


                  #11
                  Mock up for tomorrow. Sealing up the fittings so I can just fingers crossed plug and play.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                    #12
                    I love it!
                    I am also looking for a Nummech single frame for two years for a similar build...

                    For the air fitting do you need to have one long and one short to have them fit?

                    Comment


                    • Chuck E Ducky

                      Chuck E Ducky

                      commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Frame needs to be seals long valve sealed short so the frame fitting clears the rail.

                    #13
                    The one on the valve could use some adjustment in even more. Getting it all lined up is a pain in the butt. I Take the fittings elbows off put it together the put the fitting elbows back on in one piece. I think I have to rebuild the valve as it’s leaking out of the left side bleed hole.

                    Comment


                    • superman

                      superman

                      commented
                      Editing a comment
                      long ccm post on the bottom, short on the top. use loctite and don't thread it in fully.

                    • Chuck E Ducky

                      Chuck E Ducky

                      commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Yeah the valve came with the fitting already on it I got to pull it all apart anyway for a rebuild. That’s coming off and it will get a lil blue and get set lower. I got the one on the frame to seal nicely. Now I just got to find a good tec video for the Xvalve.

                    #14
                    It’s leaking from the side vent hole and the on / off is sticking. (lil brass pin).

                    I'm going to attempt to figure it out myself. If not I will mail the valve to Cougar20th he said he could rebuild it for me. I kind of want to learn how to do it myself anyway tho.

                    Comment


                    • superman

                      superman

                      commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Does it have a ult on/off?

                    • Chuck E Ducky

                      Chuck E Ducky

                      commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Not sure honestly. I’m going to dig into it tomorrow. Going to do some research tonight.

                    #15
                    It’s looking good tho. Think I might go with a Caustic flame job for the aluminum bits.

                    Comment


                    • Mr. Hick

                      Mr. Hick

                      commented
                      Editing a comment
                      As much as I love the idea, I think it's too little aluminum for such a busy anno. it might be very underwhelming when you get it reassembled chuck.
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