Stuff for new Automag owners

[Spider!]

We used to have some good guides in this section, which I hope will get replenished someday. Until then I wanted to start a thread about the stuff that new automag users should watch out for when fixing up an old automag. For deep discussions, troll through AO at https://www.automags.org/forums/forum.php

First, use the urethane seals it was designed for. Kits available from tunaman (tunaman5@verizon.net) or https://www.airgundesigns.com/

Second, common (but simple) trouble spots.

1) Rail bushing: find it on the parts diagram, in the rail for the rear frame (field strip} screw. These are pretty necessary for reliable operation. Some homemade ones work, but get one from AGD if in doubt. People lose them and forget that they were there.

2) on/off top right side up: The old original on/off top has a particular orientation. Don't judge, just follow the laser etching on the valve or the parts diagram.

3) powerfeed plug: Make sure you have the new one. The old one can cause all sorts of weird feed problems when using a powerfeed body.

OLD:



NEW:



There's more to follow, I'm sure. These are just some of my pet peeves.

4) trigger rod adjustment [Myrkul]: in general, No. Check it with the air on the marker (safety on preferably). Point the marker down. You should see a little gap between the trigger rod and the back side of the trigger, about the thickness of a credit card. It's not critical, you just need to see that the rod is not pushing against the trigger when it should be hanging freely.

5) on/off pin length [Brokeass_baller]: in classic mags and generally, should be 0.750". 0.740" is considered short and on the edge of trouble. There are/were different lengths available from AGD, up to 0.765". Know what you are trying to do if you depart from 0.750". Some RT on/off pins get broken at the bottom, making them 0.720 or so (they don't work). Don't force the valve in or out of the body to avoid that.

[superman]

This reminds me i need to revise that long info thing i wrote awhile back. I think i sent it to you Spider. Let me know If you want a copy of that to add.

[Spider!]

It needs to come back. I think you had some changes after I got a copy.

[Myrkul]

Don't adjust the timing rod on the sear assembly unless you absolutely have to. If you get it wrong you'll be chasing phantom leaks until its corrected. I learned that the hard way once.

Edit: Additional things I have run into twice:

If you are using a right feed body (not a power feed right, the old style true right feed) and a twist lock barrel, you WILL have double feeds with a single rubber barrel detent and small ass modern paint. I have had "some" success bending in a wire detent more on a single detent barrel, and I know other members have fixed it with a Doc's barrel adapter, but that didn't work at all for me. The best solution I've found is to pick up a later style dual detented stock barrel or right feed R/T barrel (these were also dual detented) and then double up the "O" rings on that. I have not had a double feed since. But it was an extremely frustrating problem for a while. So be careful with small paint.

Classic valves do not like to run the red level 10 spring. Even with the new reg pistons from the factory, both would trip the blow off feature on the reg piston when trying to run red springs. The gold spring is recommended anyway, so that shouldn't be an issue for most people, but if you are hell bent on a red spring, be prepared to run into this.

[Jordan]

I've not had that experience with a RF Mag and a standard twistlock... even with a forcefeed loader. Interesting.

[Jordan]

The level 10 setup instructions on Warpig should be here too. They're much better than anything I've read on here.

Here's the old pf vs. new pf comparison, too...

[Spider!]

I tried to find that one from the old UK site, but it didn't show up for me.

[Jordan]

It took some digging... I think I found it archived on AO.

[Arthur]

This is some good stuff,

[Brokeass_baller]

Don't adjust the timing rod on the sear assembly unless you absolutely have to. If you get it wrong you'll be chasing phantom leaks until its corrected. I learned that the hard way once.

And recharge issues. Being young and dumb and messing with stuff I shouldn't have, I thought that lengthening the sear rod so that it was right up against the trigger would shorten the length I needed to pull the trigger.

Nope. Just made my FREAKING RT VALVE have terrible shoot down. Yes. Shoot down.

[Spider!]

By keeping the sear pushed back, the on/off pin doesn't get to come down from the on/off top all of the way between shots, choking the gas flow.

[Brokeass_baller]

@spider Exactly. But my stupid ass didn't realize that until a bit of research and a lot of head scratching. The issue nearly ruined my day of play, because there's no way you can test for shoot down by dry fitting it in the basement. Lol. Fortunately, I like pumps, too. So I just played the day with that.

[Myrkul]

Yep, I had the recharge issues too. Luckily I had another mag laying around and was able to get close by matching the sears on that and then fine tuning. Still a massive headache that would have never happened if I just trusted the factory though.

[Brokeass_baller]

While we're taking about sear pin lengths, what is the stock length from clevis to tip? Might be good to write down in case anybody messes it up like I did.

[Magageddon]

if anyone finds themselves with a reactor on/off in their valve, get used to the habit of taking your valve off upside down. There's a little metal disc that isnt held in place besides gravity in the reactor on/off assembly. If you take your valve off normally, that disc will fall out and you'll potentially lose it

[Jordan]

Level 10 article from Warpig:

http://www.warpig.com/paintball/tech...tomag/level10/

[Jordan]

This needs to be stickied.