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How trash are the composite frames?

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    Originally posted by iamthelazerviking View Post
    I am still curious about using the Palmer's carbon fiber frame. I I understand it would need Sheridan internals to use as a swing trigger on a Sniper platform. PPS said they have a stock trigger laying around they can toss in.

    So what are all the pieces I would need in order to use on a Sniper and not need to modify?
    I used one of the CF Palmer frames on my Sniper. The internals are from a PGP and work great. The only issue I had was with the sear spring not being long enough, but I was able to shim it with a bolt.
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    3D Printed Marker Upgrades


      I couldn't find my old AGD frame assembly pics.

      Here's a 45 frame. Since it is on a pistol, the only thing I have to watch for is to not tighten the frame screws too much. I have played several long days with this pistol. Since this build is light it only has to stand up to pumping, which is light, being a regulated setup. It is a slider.

      Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20201127_194031534.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.41 MB ID:	60798

      This is a WGP composite slider. It seems tough enough. I have played a 45/45 on it a few times, but have a 13ci for it now. Again, light duty.

      Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20201127_194021809.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.42 MB ID:	60799

      These two superbolts are my workhorses. They are stock AGD frames with the superbolt sear and a #4 screw that sticks out of the AGD trigger to hit the sear. The threads are ground off were the screw meets the sear. The trigger bottoms out before the sear mechanism hits anything, so there's not a big load on the screw that is in the trigger. I haven't tried other sears or a slider plate in an AGD frame.

      Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20201127_194045444.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.42 MB ID:	60800

      All of these builds are very light bodies with the light frames, so I don't mind being a little more careful with the WGP frames. I've had two of the bad frames that look exactly like the one on the gator marker. I couldn't find a mold mark worth of difference. Those two broke as soon as I tightened the rear frame screw. Even though these two have survived and seem better, I don't leave them in the sun or use solvents on them. I can say the gator frame is slightly gray and has a dull sound to it, where the bad frames were shiny black and sounded brittle in the first place.