How trash are the composite frames?

[iamthelazerviking]

I dig the OG look of the single hole slider frames, especially with wood grips. But are these guaranteed to break?

[Magmoormaster]

If you want a single hole grip frame, get a potmetal frame. They can be plenty smooth with the right internals.

[JonM]

I also noticed that the tank would flex side to side when I used a composite frame.

[latches109]

There is a batch of sturdy OG style composite frames floating around. I have one, not sure if it was WGP or aftermarket.

[SignOfZeta]

Speaking for the (I think) ‘99 and up WGP plastic frames on stock cockers, if that’s what we are talking about...to be honest they are not bad. As delivered the they feel like garbage but most of that is the crappy grip panels WGP supplied. If you put a good grip on it you don’t even notice they are plastic because the rest of the gun still weighs a ton because it’s a cocker after all.

The bottom line is the weak area...but then that’s not always bulletproof on the zinc ones either. I agree with Magmoormaster in that the zinc ones can be very smooth. I’d say base it around which trigger you want.

[Grendel]

If you want single hole Composite frames you can not beat AGD (Automag Frames) they will work with traditional Snipers without modification (same bolt pattern between AGD and WGP) and only need a slotted hole for the 3-way if using with an Autococker. The cheap single whole frames that came from WGP were non-reinforced nylon IIRC and break super easy.

[iamthelazerviking]

Grendel so if I got an AGD frame and slapped it on any cocker body with a pump kit it would work without modification?

[Brokeass_baller]

You'd have to cut the plastic grip nubs and drill it for a roll pin. That's The only way to get a Sheridan sear in place.

If you really wanted to make it work with slider guts, you could, but it'll be a little bit of work. You'll have to do the same thing with the nubs/roll pin, then slot where the trigger pin is for the 3-way actuator. Behind the trigger, where the Automag sear rod would be, there's an angled piece in the mold that props up the mag sear rod so that is in the right position against the trigger. That needs to be ground down. It's very difficult to do without a mill and some small bits. But after that, drill for two height-adjustment set screws and slap it all together. I did this once with a dremel about 15 years ago. It worked, but it wasn't smooth and the plate would hang up. I probably needed to smooth out where I sanded off that angled piece.

[Grendel]

I just tried to find an AGD CF frame but can not locate one to be sure. In the past I have used an AGD CF frame on Snipers but I was using them in conjunction with the swing trigger out of an earlier pot metal frame used on early snipers or repurposing old Sheridan marker triggers. I had teammates that liked the old swing triggers, as a reason why. Though I seem to remember playing with sliders also with these frames but can not remember if we had to deepen the area for the trigger plate but the Sear Spring perch is stock in the frame. You will have to drill the sear pivot hole but you should be able to use your existing frame for a template.

So yes you can use them others have done it but it may take a little modifying to get it to accept the slider guts but they bolt right up to a Autococker.


Image from Bacci's site.

[iamthelazerviking]

I have also considered a pot metal slider, don't seem too bad

[Grendel]

Pot metal are fine and stronger then the plastic ones from WGP but not as strong as the CF Frames from AGD. They stand up to normal abuse but dropping your marker on the frame can break them. They also do not take bottom line setups well. If you do a bottom line setup fashion a backer plate to thread into pot metal does not hold threads and simple nuts break through too easily. the other option is a UMB mount (by far the strongest way to go with pot metal.

[OpusX]

I have also considered a pot metal slider, don't seem too bad

I have these on two builds, and find them to be quite good (always have). As noted, one must be a bit careful with the bottom line threads, and eventually you'll need to have a support plate put in (probably after years of use) but DocsMachine can do the job if I recall.

[Spider!]

There are at least three varieties of wgp composite frames. One looks a little different with some ribbing across the top. That one and some of the plain sided ones are reinforced (or better plastic) and do fine with ASA mounts.

Some of the old plain sided frames are terrible and crumble easily, usually starting at the back frame hole. I have one of those I keep around for the pattern, but I still have to be careful not to hit it too hard.

I've compared the plain sided ones side by side and couldn't find any visible differences that might help when looking at pictures. They appear to have the same mold lines. I can feel the difference, but that is it.

If you want a light build, a good composite frame is nice part.

[Cunha]

The Pot Metal is fine for a single hole slider. It is a good frame though not as tough as some. Very lightweight.
The plastic slider 1 hole and the plastic slider .45 frame are bad frames that will crack.
The plastic AGD 1 hole hinge frame is a top grade frame. You can make it work on a sniper and it will never brbeak.

[iamthelazerviking]

Anyone have photo examples of the stronger plastic WGP frames?

[Cunha]

I am fairly confident that such a thing doesn't really exist.

I think that the plastic .45 frames are probably a bit tougher, but they still crack very often.

Get the AGD frame and modify it to become a slider, then you will have a really great slider. Either that, or get a pot metal.

[Grendel]

I have replaced so many single whole and 45 plastic frames from WGP, they are trash every one of them. When I was building Snipers and Autocockers for sale or upgrades I just went and bought a crap load of ANS Quickfire frames just to have in stock

[iamthelazerviking]

I am still curious about using the Palmer's carbon fiber frame. I I understand it would need Sheridan internals to use as a swing trigger on a Sniper platform. PPS said they have a stock trigger laying around they can toss in.

So what are all the pieces I would need in order to use on a Sniper and not need to modify?

[Jordan]

Spider! did a great writeup a few years back, but basically you drill a hole where the little nubs are - that's where the sear pivot pin goes - and install a modified Mag trigger and Cocker sear.

You can probably use a Sheridan trigger with the Cocker sear - I've been meaning to mod the frame I have and do a writeup to replace the missing information, unless Spider! has his pictures saved and can redo it.

[Brokeass_baller]

I had a Sniper that used Sheridan guts in an AGD cast frame. There was no modification necessary. Everything dropped right in. I loved having AGD grips on a WGP marker.

[uglyduckling]

Spider! would you happen to have pics or instructions?

[Spider!]

uglyduckling I'll make some more. I have a 3d trigger print now that is at least good for the geometry.