Open Bolt Pump - Parts Swap - Combo Kits

[nak81783]

Additional info from Azodin:

You will also need to lengthen the slot in the body to allow the bolt to travel fully to the rear. The slot needs to be lengthened about 1in. The alternative is to drill the striker to accommodate the current bolt and its pin positioning.

This is similar to the issue I had trying to easily convert my Empire Sniper to open bolt, so I'm not surprised it got more complicated. Going to try RedLeaderSB's detents first. If I'm still having issues, I'll look into a custom hammer and bolt for my Empire Sniper. Doesn't seem like the Azodin bodies/parts provide any easy solutions.

[nak81783]

Why not just use barrel detents? Freedummy style or laser cut.
I use a mild overbore on my snipers with a barrel detent. Works great on all kind of weird paint shapes.

I’ve seen the freedummy ones. Guess I can give that a shot. Do you have a link or further description for the laser cut ones? Not sure I’ve seen those. Or are they the same shape just laser cut from sheet metal instead of 3D printed? Thanks.

[RedLeaderSB]

Why not just use barrel detents? Freedummy style or laser cut.
I use a mild overbore on my snipers with a barrel detent. Works great on all kind of weird paint shapes.

[nak81783]

From Azodin:

CONVERTING YOUR PUMP INTO OPEN BOLT:

Original KP/KPII - Easiest
1. Swap the striker to a standard feather striker and remove the o-ring
2. Cut the rear of the sled to free the bolt after the pump action.

KP3 / KPC / KPC+
1. Swap the striker to a standard feather striker and remove the o-ring
2. Cut the rear of the sled to free the bolt after the pump action.
3. Swap the bolt to the mechanical bolt (108.5mm)

and:

The KPC+ already uses the same valve as the KD3. Just remove the bumper on the valve. It can be converted into a mechanical gun, but not an electronic because it lacks slots for the eyes.

[TKcustoms]

Most of the azodin internals are interchangeable. I think the exception is the zero'd system. The sears are in different spots on mech&electro frames so a different bolt is needed.

I would be worried about the bolt pin smacking the aluminum sled if the handle was anywhere but forward.

Maybe they figured they can't justify kits when their guns are so inexpensive on the used market.

[nak81783]

I don't see why #1 wouldn't work. I would do it slightly differently, but it is a neat idea.

I'd like to hear what you'd do differently if you're willing to share.

Thinking on it more, with only one pump arm, the sled/block could flop around if not constrained to the bolt. I've had a KDII, but beyond that, I'm just going off of pictures, so I might be missing something.

[EvilCreature]

I don't see why #1 wouldn't work. I would do it slightly differently, but it is a neat idea.

[nak81783]

I'm awaiting an e-mail response from Azodin, but I thought I'd ask here as well. I'll post when I hear back from Azodin.

I've been frustrated with rollouts (small paint), barrel breaks (large paint), and curve balls (large paint but not barrel break large) with closed bolt markers.

Open bolt and over-boring seems to be the answer, but I still want to be able to play pump.

1. Can you mix and match Azodin parts to make an open bolt pump? E.g., can you modify the pump sled/block to be open ended at the back (to only push backwards, not pull forwards) and put in a STBB striker without the o-ring (to prevent semi, but keep the bolt attached to the striker to prevent the bolt from flopping around) to create an open bolt pump?

2. Similarly, can you remove the pump sled/block and put a STBB striker with o-ring in a pump marker to switch it to semi?

In either scenario, might also need to change hammer spring to account for different weight of bolt/striker combo (attached or separated).

Seems Azodin could offer a kit for electronic, semi mechanical, and pump mechanical (open and closed bolt) if there's parts interchangeability.