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Old vs new parts

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    Old vs new parts

    Picked up a vertical feed body off the BST. Need some guts for it.

    Was thinking about stealing them from the phantoms I got off the-bay recently. However, some parts are "old style".

    Specifically, my hammer is the older straight-side vs the newer "barrel" shape (I've read the new style is to help prevent kinking?)

    I do seem to have the shorter power tube (which I've read is newer style).

    The bolt seems the same (could be wrong) but the center velocity adjuster is older on mine, lacking the O-ring on the adjustment threads. Not a huge deal, I out a new Nylon set screw in and it seems to have plenty of friction.

    Thoughts? Are these guts okay? Or maybe splurge on the new "barrel" shipped hammer?

    Thanks!
    Attached Files

    #2
    The newer hammer probably makes a little difference but not enough to spend the money replacing what you've got. I'd build and play
    Dulce et decorum est pro comoedia mori

    Comment


      #3
      make sure when look for new hammer check to see which year gun was made. i have one that use old hammer and new body that use newer hammer

      Comment


      • BlindFaith429
        BlindFaith429 commented
        Editing a comment
        How do i tell the age of the body?

      #4
      Sent you a message, in my experience so long as the all the internals are all new or all old it will work with new/old body, valve body and trigger frame

      Comment


        #5
        I've never paid any attention to it. I just use whatever I have.....

        It's never made a difference.....

        Comment


          #6
          Put it together if it works leave it alone keep it clean lightly oiled go shoot the shit out of it and stop over thinking it, It’s a phantom it will shot good don’t mater how old the internals are.

          Comment


          • Chuck E Ducky

            Chuck E Ducky

            commented
            Editing a comment
            😂 Yeah it won’t make a difference new VS old. Teflon set screw becomes more important with the older style TPC. But if you know how to set it it works exactly the same.

            Remove the TPC thread the Teflon Grub screw so it just barely enters the inside bore of the bolt. You want the TPC threads to cut into the bottom of that Teflon screw to create a lil resistance so the TPC don’t move around on you. A common mistake is people try and just crank down on it. You will never get the resistance you need before the Teflon strips out. It’s super simple when you know how. If it’s difficult to adjust the TPC you set the screw to low back ot out an 1/8 of a turn till you can adjust it freely but it’s got some resistance. The newer TPC have an oring that dose the same thing. But use what you got because now you know how to set it properly.

          • BlindFaith429
            BlindFaith429 commented
            Editing a comment
            I think I set the screw a little too deep cause it is pretty hard to turn, but it does move okay. Just a little stiff. Id rather it be a little on the stuff side though to reduce the risk of moving.

            Inception design 3-ways are the same way, put the set screw in and then the trigger "L" bar, to "cut" threads into the nylon screw and add resistance.

          • Chuck E Ducky

            Chuck E Ducky

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Funny thing is Simon is the one that actually the one who taught me how to use the Teflon screws properly. I asked why he used them instead of a regular grub screws.

          #7
          @BlindFaith429

          It looks like the parts you show above are from an early 1990s Phantom. You can tell by the anodized thumb screws that don't have the hex holes, the anodized pump rod and the screened logo on the trigger frame. I'd say circa 1992. The most important thing to know about Phantom internals is that older and newer styles are NOT interchangeable. You can NOT use an old style hammer or valve tube with a new style bolt, or an old style bolt with a new hammer. While all Phantoms were designed to have "anti-kink" internals, CCI (Mike) made many improvements to individual parts over the years. You can certainly use new style parts in an old breech and valve body (and vice versa), but it's important to swap out all of the internals at the same time. The only internals that can be used universally would be the valve seat, cup seal, springs and o-rings. The power tube, hammer, and bolt assembly would all need to be replaced together. However, given the age of the parts shown above, I would recommend swapping out all internals at the same time.

          The only other consideration for a breech from the early 1990s is going to be the threading for the barrel. Mike changed the barrel threading on the Phantom around 1994 I think, so that will impact which barrels can be used with that breech. Most newer style barrels will be able to thread into the older style breech, but there have been instances where they don't. The older style barrels will not work with the newer style breeches at all.

          Comment


            #8
            Slim

            Thanks a lot for the info. The screws do not have the hex as mentioned, but I think they are all steel. They have the O-ring groove like the newer SS ones.

            Here's a pic of the while gun, complete with the old Nickel barrel.

            Is there a way to date the gun bases on the trigger guard stamping?

            This also doesn't have the VSA screw holes either in the trigger guard, if that helps.
            Attached Files

            Comment


              #9
              That’s definitely an older one. You use to be able to email Mike and he could tell by the number on the trigger frame ruffly when it was produced. Like Slim said if you swap internals you need to swap it all. Also the reason you should just shoot it as is. Your not going to notice a difference in performance. Mike made tweaks to the internals but nothing that would warrant swapping it all over. But you could.

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