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Anyone has/had a working Neo Power Valve...

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    Anyone has/had a working Neo Power Valve...

    I got questions...

    A) When threaded in, are there still threads exposed on the body of your Power Valve?

    I want to make sure this thing is actually threading in all the way before I continue to build around it, but it seats with 2.5 threads still visible and I don't know if that is correct.

    B1) There is no provision for allotting dedicated blowback gas, did these require a specific valve with a dedicated blowback port?

    B2) Or is the lose tolerance around the valve stem enough to reliably recock the marker?

    B3) Is it still enough to reliably recock the marker ON HPA?

    C) Is the Neo Power Valve completely BS snake oil?

    I want to build it regardless, even if it's pure gimmick, but I would like to know if I can actually expect to get this working... I have never seen one or heard about one actually up and running.

    D) What is the proper assembly of this device?

    The instructions are complete garbage and I might be stupid. I assume that it is a pressure release valve, essentially. My assumption leads me to believe that the order is:

    Set screw -> Spring -> Ball bearing -> O-ring

    The O-ring acting as a valve seat/seal for the ball bearing. This creates an air spring behind the oversized valve stem...? The "tension" of this aforementioned air spring is adjustable via the set screw/spring. I think. I don't actually know.

    The O-ring could go on/around the valve stem for all I know. The end of the valve stem does have what appears to be a centered contact stop that would indicate hitting the ball bearing. But if it is in contact with the ball bearing, then all they did is move the valve spring to the end of the LPC.

    The Neo Power Valve has a spring component, and I don't believe that it functions in the same fashion as the typical Spyder valve spring. I am under the impression that it controls dwell with air pressure, rather than spring force physically closing the valve. Once again, I could be wrong, because I might be stupid.
    Last edited by DavidBoren; 08-18-2020, 01:58 AM.
    If you need to talk, I will listen. Leave a message and I will call you back as soon as I get it.
    IGY6; 503.995.0257

    I have one but never got it set up to function correctly and be adjustable. It was always maxes out in one direction or another. The cup seal was really janky/off kilter on one of them I had but somehow still sealed fine. Not sure how.

    but I definitely remember having a couple exposed threads when fully seated.
    My feedback


      Holy crap, thanks for the reply.

      Do you remember the order in which the thing was assembled?

      Ultimately, there are only so many possibilities, so I will probably just put it together and send it. See what happens. Change as needed.
      If you need to talk, I will listen. Leave a message and I will call you back as soon as I get it.
      IGY6; 503.995.0257


        Yes, the two I had (including the one I still have) is assembled the same way you described. And I installed it into a body and verified about 2 threads stick out when fully seated.

        I know the Action Markers Sentinel velocity adjustment was done on the valve side, not at the main spring. But I can’t remember how the front plug was sealed.

        This is similar in function in my opinion. Basically you are controlling velocity by mechanically adjusting your dwell. The more you crank down, the faster the valve pin closes. But this assembly was probably the only way the designer could go about this while still giving the benefit of a larger valve chamber the LPC offers.

        Or I could be wrong and you could be right about the air spring idea.
        My feedback


        • DavidBoren


          Editing a comment
          Thank you.

          I have two of the freaking things, and haven't bothered using either since I thought they didn't fit properly, due to the threads being exposed.

          I even pieced together the perfect, beat to $#!+, grey-body Classic with the fat feedneck, 32* Magna-valve, LAPCO vertical ASA, and an Alamo City delrin fatty striker. I will throw a regulator on it, too... I have a few Evil Detonator regs laying around, or an old WGP regulator (which is probably more appropriate for the time period, I just hate adjusting them).

          Give it [the Neo Power Valve] a fighting chance to actually perform...

        i have one on an old grey body that i used on the field. No issues. Its been a long time though. The threads are close but overall a different thread; so it will screw in most of the way but not fully. There was a thread on MCB about the threads of the neo valve and what it had to be re-threaded to but that info is probably long gone. Azodin used the version of the neo valve in one of their markers. i like the idea of it but never took the time to properly tune it and get the most out of it. Im surprised its not more popular. Im also looking for a full body SE to build up with the neo valve... if someone has one... just sayen... lol


          I will send you my spare(?). However, it is missing the spring. It was that way when I bought it (hence the reason I have two). A spring is a spring, and I can include the dimensions of the spring from the other one.

          The threads are 3/4-16... the "standard" equivalent to what Spyder used. Which is 19.5 metric threads, I believe.

          The Neo Power Valve threads right into a Brass Eagle Avenger body I have. I just abhor what BE did with that abominable foregrip contraption... otherwise I would have used it.
          If you need to talk, I will listen. Leave a message and I will call you back as soon as I get it.
          IGY6; 503.995.0257