Spyder Eframe 9V Conversion?

[dutchcommando]

instead of boost, why not buck? get a 3 little lipo foil batteries and make a 1p3s pack with a linear voltage regulator?

I looked into that initially, but there's just not enough room in the frame for that many batteries. I can a max of two 3.6v's without permanent modifications, and that's about it. The problem is they can only be a total of around 20mm thick.

[Tarsun2]

instead of boost, why not buck? get a 3 little lipo foil batteries and make a 1p3s pack with a linear voltage regulator?

[lhamilton1807]

Please tag me in your new thread. Interested in what you come up with!

[dutchcommando]

No, but it's designed to use the stock battery connector, so you'll be able to swap it out with either the stock battery, or another retrofit unit. The booster I'm currently using also apparently has a low-power standby mode when it detects that there's no draw.

At least with the VS2, I noticed that the battery would drain, even if it wasn't being used.

[lhamilton1807]

Will your battery/booster combo be a single unit? I would guess that a booster would constantly draw power from the battery

[dutchcommando]

that would be pretty cool.
the buck/booster modules ive seen in the past have all be pretty chuncky. a mini booster would be neat for sure.
do you have to worry about the mA drop from the boost? i cant imagine the solenoid is a "high current" draw.

No clue as of yet, but the booster I got is designed to be able to handle an output of around 5w.

[dutchcommando]

I'll post a separate thread about it once I get it up and running. I'm currently running into issues finding a VS1/2/3 board. I got about 5 bnib Tadao boards from a local place, but none of them appear to work, weirdly enough.........

[appleguy]

Subscribing for future updates! I’ve always been so annoyed with the 9.6v requirements.

[Tarsun2]

that would be pretty cool.
the buck/booster modules ive seen in the past have all be pretty chuncky. a mini booster would be neat for sure.
do you have to worry about the mA drop from the boost? i cant imagine the solenoid is a "high current" draw.

[dutchcommando]

Lol, naa. I hadn't slept at all the night before, and I thought "well the 9.6v is outputting 10.5v, so I'll set the booster to that and send it!" That was a really dumb decision.......

[dutchcommando]

A voltage booster to take it from 3.7v to 9.6v.

Also, a major part of it is adding usb-c charging, just for the convenience factor.

[Frmrspec]

Did you accidentally run it in series?

[Tarsun2]

wait, where are you getting that voltage?
li-ion are usually 3.7v to 4.2v

awhile back, i put together an external battery pack for testing. it worked well but was big and bulky. Was about the size of a playing card and half an inch thick. it was good for testing and whatnot but got in the way during game play.

the reason they use nimh/nicad is because the nominal voltage is 1.2v/cell. this lends itself well to 9.6v as its just 8 cells in series.

the downfall to the nimh batteries is the 1.2v compared to the 3.7v of the ion's, but the nimh batteries are no joke. theyre often slept on because theyre "safe", have a lower V, and less energy dense(for their size) but, if you have the room they can really pack a punch.

[William the Third]

I'm tired and forgot the basics of working on electronics

The first rule is to never release the magic smoke.

[dutchcommando]

@Ihamilton1807 No, t's actually a 952540. The calculated capacity at 9.6v is around 385mAh (vs the Powerex rechargeable, which is 230mAh). There's actually enough space in the frame to add a second battery in parallel, which would raise the calculated capacity to about 771mAh. The only issue with doing that is how long it'd take to change.

Sadly, while working on this today, I managed to fry the board in my VS2, because I'm tired and forgot the basics of working on electronics. Lol......