I can guide you if youd like, all you need is a hand drill and a tap and drill for 1/8npt.
I did that to my cocker build and it looks nice and small.
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Snipers on 12 grams / on CO2 Discussion
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Thinner orings or smaller orings stretched over the bolt should smooth it out if you take the orings off and there is no resistance. Check the area you modified for burs.
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Latest update:
I was given a VASA to replace the incorrect one I had, and this barrel looks nice on there.
I tried to shorten the screw holding the feedtube on, and ended up ruining it lol.
I also can't figure out what is going on with the pump stroke. I put some orings from Autocockerparts.com on the bolt and the thing really sticks in their now. Unfortunately I threw the only o-rings out, so I can't compare them.
Any suggestions from the sniper enthusiasts on smoothing the pump stroke?
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The original thread inspired a build in my head years ago. Back then I bought a pre2k body/backblock/vasa/etc. because I was sure that other users said they had better efficiency than the 2k+, but that doesn't seem to be the case lol.
Either way, this summer I played true stock class for the first time in many years, and I decided it was time to go ahead with the build.
Starting point:
I have been sitting on a few parts that were perfect for the project, namely a clear acrylic Phantom feed block/cap, a doc Tanto barrel, and a female stabilizer that I decided to take off of my pirate since it wasn't really doing much.
I bought a bunch of AC parts to complete it from a user on here, and I picked up the remaining bits + a Slice kit from autocockerparts.com.
I sent the body to my good friend BLITUS for modification, since he's done similar mods for me on my Automag, and probably something else, I can't remember.
So it was time to throw it all together.
Unfortunately the VASA I got must be a 2k+ as it doesn't actually fit this body, so the search begins for one of those.
Once I have that I'll probably take it out with a 9ci a couple times this winter, but other than that I'm just waiting for Spring so I can sweetspot the reg and really put it through it's paces.
Things I want to change:
-The ASA adapter(I don't know what it's called) is pretty beat up, so I would like to get another one of those.
-The clear feed cap took a nasty fall and the acrylic is pretty brittle so it shattered and is currently held together with epoxy. It works, but I'm going to order a black phantom feed tube/cap and keep the clear block.
-My tanto barrel has taken a beating and is pretty scratched up. I'm not sure if I like it with a longer or shorter barrel, so I'll be messing around with that in the spring as well.
-QD on the steel braid because removing the stabilizer is a pain without one.
-I'm going to try and take one of the slices out of the kit to keep the pump handle nice and short.
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Based on this line - "2. "dead space" is less significant, if not inconsequential in a regged setup versus an unregged setup where all expansion is avoided." - Either body should be fine. More space in a 2k, but with that being less significant, I would say go 2k for more options/parts
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Regged sniper will work better... ok. But, pre2k or post2k body for a build?
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Originally posted by russc View Post2. Unregged Snipers are like driving a carbureted car. It's simpler, but it can take some tinkering and you're sacrificing performance for style points.
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This may be an off topic question, but I'm in the process of making a pump action Spyder. I've got my hands on a spring kit so I have some flexibility, but would the tuning process be similar to hit ideal efficiency?
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Thanks for putting this all back together in one easy to process post. That thread was like 20+ pages long if I remember correctly.
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