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    #16
    Am I stupid?

    Is my $5+shipping Pro Lite broken?

    Does the valve, itself, physically move as part of actuation?
    If you need to talk, I will listen. Leave a message and I will call you back as soon as I get it.
    IGY6; 503.995.0257

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    • snaparen

      snaparen

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      Editing a comment
      Yes
      Maybe
      Yes

    #17
    Yes it does

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      #18
      Well, now I know. And knowing is half the battle (violence is the other half).
      If you need to talk, I will listen. Leave a message and I will call you back as soon as I get it.
      IGY6; 503.995.0257

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        #19
        So, after you remove everything... you just hammer everything out the back?

        The powertube is already broken, so I don't have to worry about using a tool that protects/avoids the tube part of it.

        I got everything moving, individually. But it's like there is something between the valve and powertube.

        I can get the powertube to move backwards about 3/8" and then it stops. I can feel the front cup seal depressing and the spring tension. But it feels like it is hitting a hard stop.

        The valve will move forward about 3/8" and then it seems to meet the same hard stop. Which I am guessing is a shoulder/lip inside the tube to limit its forward movement.

        Is it just a matter of getting a wooden dowel rod and "applying adequate force"?
        If you need to talk, I will listen. Leave a message and I will call you back as soon as I get it.
        IGY6; 503.995.0257

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          #20
          Originally posted by DavidBoren View Post
          So, after you remove everything... you just hammer everything out the back?

          The powertube is already broken, so I don't have to worry about using a tool that protects/avoids the tube part of it.

          I got everything moving, individually. But it's like there is something between the valve and powertube.

          I can get the powertube to move backwards about 3/8" and then it stops. I can feel the front cup seal depressing and the spring tension. But it feels like it is hitting a hard stop.

          The valve will move forward about 3/8" and then it seems to meet the same hard stop. Which I am guessing is a shoulder/lip inside the tube to limit its forward movement.

          Is it just a matter of getting a wooden dowel rod and "applying adequate force"?
          I've never taken the power tube out of my Pro/Am because I ran into the same thing and decided I didn't want to risk breaking anything. What you're probably running into is a burr that you'll just have to beat it past. If you're removed the air fitting, the adjuster screw, and the little steel block under the front trigger frame pin then there shouldn't be anything else getting in the way.

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            #21
            do you have the trigger frame removed? There is a valve stop under the trigger frame that limits the "float motion of the valve during operation.

            Are we there yet?

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              #22
              Finally got it apart. That was more complicated than it needed to be.

              AND, both the pins retaining the guts of the valve are broken. There is no clip-ring... just two broken pins.

              I replaced all the O-rings with a new kit from O-rings Online. I have the "new" cup seals from an ancient first aid kit soaking in ATF for the night. And ordered a TechT valve spring.

              The Picco Starfire bolt is too big, both in length and diameter. It was being sold as a Pro Lite bolt, but it's not.

              Anyways, I look forward to getting this thing put together. Should be a fun little shooter.
              If you need to talk, I will listen. Leave a message and I will call you back as soon as I get it.
              IGY6; 503.995.0257

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