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SL68 II Freak Boring Barrel

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    SL68 II Freak Boring Barrel

    Hey guys,

    ​​​​​​I recently picked one up off the forum, and I'm debating freak boring the barrel. I know there's some info out there recommending NOT to, as the bolt oring could possibly pull the inserts out of the barrel. That being said, I'm in a "challenge accepted" mode and want to see if you could possibly help me come up with a way to prevent this from happening. I've thought of a few possibilities:

    1) milling an oring groove around the outside of the barrel, with deeper cuts on the side that actually cut all the way into the barrel. This way when you install an oring, it's seated in the groove and would physically touch/hold the insert in place via those slots/windows made via the deeper cuts. Not sure if there's enough meat on the barrel to do or not?

    2) same idea as above, but doing it internally. Have a groove cut on the inside of the barrel and install an oring to hold the insert in place (like regular freak backs are set up). Same concern as above.

    3) introducing some sort of friction inducing material to hold the insert. Not sure if something like a REALLY thin application of something like rubber cement (or even nail polish) in the freak bored area, letting dry, and installing insert would work. I'd prefer not to leave a mess all over the inserts, given that I'll be mainly using them in my phantom(s). So, something that stays "wet" like a thick grease or putty doesn't seem too appealing.

    4) finding a freak back/compatible barrel from a different gun and having the threading milled down to SL specs. Maybe an old angel barrel?

    What can you guys think of? And yes, I know it's a cheap platform and not really "worth" putting a lot of money into, but again this is more of a labor of love/challenge accepted kinda thing. Brain exercise if nothing else

    Thanks!
    -Mike
    Last edited by Sottyman; 03-18-2021, 02:26 PM.

    #2
    I ordered a Fibur X from DeadlyWind. They modified a cocker threaded barrel to fit the SL-68 II. Paid more for the barrel than the marker is worth but it works well.

    Comment


      #3
      Carbon fiber...and barrel porting...on an SL?!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Sottyman View Post
        Carbon fiber...and barrel porting...on an SL?!

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          #5
          First of all. Pimpimg out a cheap pos marker is what this is all about to me. Lol. Ive turned the threads off of a pps brass a5 threaded barrel for sl68s before. It worked well. Id be willing to bet just about any freak ready barrel would work, though if you have the skills and the time, Id make a 2 piece barrel where you have a small shoulder in the breach end. the inserts are captured by that shoulder, and the barrel has to be seperated to change inserts. Mqking a smooth thread transition over the pump handle would be tough, but just make the barrel back thicker to make a nice transition.



          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by BrickHaus View Post
            First of all. Pimpimg out a cheap pos marker is what this is all about to me.
            I am the type of guy who puts CCM 86 grips on PGPs.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Flounder View Post

              I am the type of guy who puts CCM 86 grips on PGPs.

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              Im not to that level of mastery, but I just modded a rtr gargoyle frame to fit a puma. Then proceeded to buy a brand new intruder grip at msrp,, an Armson ssr at msrp, and a dye titanium barrel for it. That being said, each single acessory Ive gotten for it has costed as much or more than the initial marker purchase. Lol

              Comment


              • Flounder

                Flounder

                commented
                Editing a comment
                The frame is for a T2 and bolted right on. The current prices on those frames means I multiplied the value of that marker by 4 (not counting the Cooper T bolt, and Fasst change)

              #8
              IIRC freak backs for Tippmann 98 has a shoulder at the breach end of the barrel, i.e. the insert goes into the freak back from the front end, much like on an AGD spec twist lock freak back.
              If there is enough meat on the thread end of the barrel, to smooth it down for an SL 68 II, that should do the trick, regarding the prevention of inserts being pulled by the bolt.
              Got Bork?

              Comment


              • Flounder

                Flounder

                commented
                Editing a comment
                You just meed to make sure the pump handle fits over the barrel.

              • Sottyman
                Sottyman commented
                Editing a comment
                Time to get the calipers out, and maybe run by the local proshop to check if they have any 98 backs. That being said, I do kinda like the idea of a stock-ish looking barrel. Who knows, I'll end up spending WAY too much time and thinking WAY too hard about this lol

              #9
              Originally posted by Flounder View Post

              I am the type of guy who puts CCM 86 grips on PGPs.
              I wanted to do that to the PGP I owned a couple years ago but couldn't ever find a T2 frame for sale.

              Comment


                #10
                I had an airsmith from the pre ransomed version of MCB freak bore and add 3 evenly spaced external oring grooves into a smart parts barrel that was turned down to fit my Sl68-ii (the oring locking method sounds similar to what you described in option 1). It works quite well for holding the freak inserts in place.

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                Last edited by Darknite667; 03-23-2021, 02:26 PM.

                Comment


                • Darknite667

                  Darknite667

                  commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I don't. when I bought the barrel it was already turned down to fit the SL68-ii by a previous owner. I just had the freak bore modification done to it. Also if you end up trying this method of freak boring make sure that you recess the insert deep enough into the barrel to avoid having the front of the firing bolt catch the back of the freak insert and pull it out of the barrel into the breach. Food for thought.

                • Ironnerd

                  Ironnerd

                  commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I have been wanting to do something similar, but am concerned that barrel would become too weak. Any issues with cracking?

                • Darknite667

                  Darknite667

                  commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I haven't noticed any cracks in the barrel after the modification. Seems to be holding up well.

                #11
                Was there ever 3D printed Widgets for these? Seems like that would be the cheapest easiest solution to rollouts.

                Comment


                  #12
                  I always wondered if a turned down TechT I Fit kit would work. But then I opted for the .680 palmers barrel an never looked back.
                  AGD 68 Automag, AGD ULE 68 Automag, Azodin KDII, Azodin KPII, GOG V1 eNMEy, Sheridan PGP2K, Tippmann Pro/Carbine, Tippmann SL68II, Umarex TR50.

                  Comment


                    #13
                    All you need to do it get one of the old brass lined Spyder barrels and sand off the threads, remove the brass liner with heat to melt the epoxy, cut the brass insert down and reinsert the remaining brass.....works great as a Freak Barrel on the SL-68 II

                    Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk


                    Comment


                      #14
                      I’ve got the same barrel as Darknite667 on 2x SL68-II’s. TyMcNeer made them. He’s also freak bored a bunch of BE Tigersharks for me. I highly recommend him.

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