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Pro-lite modernization question

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  • Myrkul
    commented on 's reply
    They are kinda thin... I'm sure it would be possible though.

  • Brokeass_baller
    commented on 's reply
    Any idea how long of a stainless line I need? I just want to make sure I borrow the right length from work. 😉

  • Toestr
    replied
    Is there anything special about the valve stop or would I be able to make one by filing down a square nut?

    Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Myrkul
    commented on 's reply
    Chappy I think that pretty much confirms it then, the issues with Pro-Lites and HPA is the stock gasline.

  • Chappy
    commented on 's reply
    Hmmm I have a 68 carb frame and stainless braided and my prolite loves the hpa too... Interesting

  • Myrkul
    commented on 's reply
    Hell ya man! Just swap out the gas line and clean everything up and I bet they'll be good to go!

  • Brokeass_baller
    replied
    This update came at the perfect time. I picked up two Pro-Lite's off of the 'Bay for a decent deal, and now I get to dig in and mess around with them. They're both in good shape, but were untested. I plan on using them for CO2 renegade play (the small time compressor we have is pretty unreliable, and the local scuba air fills are unnecessarily expensive). But it would be great to get these able to operate on both nitro and CO2.

    ​​​​

    Leave a comment:


  • Myrkul
    commented on 's reply
    Update:

    Fluted cup seals helped a bit, but it was still topping out at 260. Threw a 68 carbine grip frame on it and swapped to stainless steel braid, chronoing mid 340s now.... The stock gas line must have been starving the valve.

  • Myrkul
    commented on 's reply
    Stock Valve Stop: 240-250 FPS
    Modified Valve Stop: 240-250 FPS
    No Valve Stop: 240-250 FPS
    RVA all the way in: 240-250 FPS
    RVA All the way out: No Change until it is WAYYYY out then it drops super quickly.

    Valve spring is a light as possible chopped down spyder valve spring.

    At no point did it fail to recock.

    Looking at this, I'm thinking the volume of the valve is just topped out. That would explain why Spring tension seemingly has no impact, its dumping the full valve every single shot, there just isn't enough air in there. I'm thinking I'll likely need to flute the cupseals BretG style to create enough volume to get up to the 280s.

  • Fubarius
    commented on 's reply
    Try removing the valve stop completely and see what happens. If it fails to recock then and still has low velocity then your issue is somewhere else. Maybe need a stronger main spring, or lighter valve spring. If the velocity goes up but recock fails after removing the valve stop, then the solution would be a thinner than normal valve stop. Might need to sand one down, or grind it down or something.

  • Myrkul
    replied
    Originally posted by Fubarius View Post
    Cast metal frame was the Pro-Am, the "Lite" in Pro-Lite was for the lighter plastic frame and foregrip.


    There is a part of the Pro-Lite that people tend to forget about when tuning. Everyone knows about the powertube choke velocity adjuster, nearly everyone knows that occasionally you need to swap the main spring, quite a few know that the valve spring might be fiddled with to change performance.

    But everyone forgets about the valve stop.

    So on a Pro-Lite the valve has two valve pins, one on the front, one on the back. When hit by the hammer the valve gets sandwiched between the hammer and powertube, which opens both valves, sending gas out the front to fire the ball and out the back to recock the gun. Now with out the valve stop (bit of metal that fits into a groove on the valve) both ends open equally. But the Pro-Lite actually needs a bit more gas for recock than for firing. The valve stop, well, stops the valve from moving forward too much, allowing the back to get opened a bit more.

    Now a long while back I was helping a local shop refurbish a bunch of former rental Pro-Lites and many were missing the valve stop. After a good cleaning, where the valve could now move smoothly in the body tube, many of those had the same issue. Plenty of velocity, not enough recock. We found we could tune the recock/velocity ratio by using different thicknesses of valve stops. Too thick and it would recock like a champ but have little velocity. Too thin and you'd get plenty of velocity, but not enough recock. For you guys with lots of old school parts, an automag sear cut into little rectangles with a dremel, made the perfect thickness of valve stop.

    And old guns tended to have a build up of rust, dirt, paint, and other crud on the valve stop (if present), which made the valve stop effectively thicker, so more and more recock but less and less velocity.
    I tried this with mine and it refused to chrono over 250 FPS on HPA regardless of the trigger plate used. Recocked fine with both plates. All internals were polished and the valve spring was lightened.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chappy
    replied
    Big hammers gonna hammer.

    Leave a comment:


  • Euphie
    replied
    So I finally got around to testing the pro-lite with air. It leaks down the barrel when It isn’t cocked, but once cocked it seems to cycle fine on HPA, though it feels like it has a bit more kick backwards than it needs, I figure as long as I can get enough velocity out of it then then having a bit much recock is probably fine right?

    It doesn’t have nearly as much force in the action as my old .68 special but, it’ll do for nostalgia’s sake I suppose.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brokeass_baller
    commented on 's reply
    I've never had an Emek, but I really liked my Gmek. But, that said, I have since sold my Gmek, sand I still have my automag. So what does that say? Lol

  • Euphie
    commented on 's reply
    Lol very true. Everyone seems to just tell me to buy an emek I honestly don’t get it. I am happy people like them so much but it just isn’t for me,
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