Tippmann Factory F/A Questions

[Tominator]

Hopefully there are some that are more knowledgeable on this marker than myself, but I had a few questions. I recently picked one up on E-Bay in a relatively good condition. There was some grime in the receiver that kept the bolt from moving, but I was able to clean most of it out. As I was reassembling the marker, I tuned the shock and ROF brass screws according to the manual (Images of the manual were posted somewhere on MCB a little while back). As I was moving the screws, a yellow liquid leaked from around it. From the manual and the old Tippmann video on the marker, I'm to understand that there's two linked chambers filled with some kind of fluid, and the movement of the two upper sears actuated by this fluid controls the shock and rate of fire.

I was wondering if anyone knew what this fluid was, and if there's a way or proper procedure for replacing the fluid. I was able to change out all the O-Rings, clean up all the surfaces, and return the marker to almost new besides this portion. I really don't like the idea that there's some part I might not be able to fix eventually, so hopefully someone knows anything about this.

[Axel]

There was an old thread about how to do this on the lost site. I seem to recall the the author of that thread used brake fluid successfully. Let me see what I can find...

[Axel]

Might be some useful information here:

https://web.archive.org/web/20140813142256/http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/tippmann/247923-my-tippmann-factory-f-clean-up-repair.html

RuleOfSines got any other resources?

[Tominator]

Thanks for the link! Gave me more questions, but answered some I didn't realize I had. Hopefully RuleOfSines has more info.

[RuleOfSines]

Hey that's me! Its been awhile since I filled one up, but I had good success using a small cup of gear oil and submerging the entire assembly with the adjusters out, and installing them while still submerged. I remember there was a fairly repeatable method for ensuring the pistons ended up in a good starting location but honestly don't remember now. If you over-fill it, the sears will never disengage, but then you can just bleed a little fluid out. I may be able to recreate the process I went through.

[Tominator]

Hey that's me! Its been awhile since I filled one up, but I had good success using a small cup of gear oil and submerging the entire assembly with the adjusters out, and installing them while still submerged. I remember there was a fairly repeatable method for ensuring the pistons ended up in a good starting location but honestly don't remember now. If you over-fill it, the sears will never disengage, but then you can just bleed a little fluid out. I may be able to recreate the process I went through.

That makes a good deal of sense. Hopefully I don't need to mess with it soon anyways. I just tried airing it up for the first time, and realized I hadn't changed any of the o rings or seals in the valve itself, resulting in all the air leaking down the barrel. So two more questions: are newer tippmann cup seals compatible with the FA/Prolite valves, and has anyone gotten one to run off HPA reliably? I read some threads of people trying it, but having issues with the bolt fully coming back and recocking even after increasing the output pressure of the tank.

[lew]

I've no experience with an FA, but my Pro-Lite will run fine on HPA.

[Tominator]

Should be pretty much identical where it matters, so that bodes well.

[Axel]

Eh..... Pro-Lites are hit and miss. I have heard of guys screwing in HPA bottles and finding them good to go, but mostly you will have issues getting to playable velocity. Figure at least you will need a high output bottle regulator

[Tominator]

Yeah that's what I was reading. I'll be able to test it with both CO2 and HPA in a week so we'll see what happens.