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Dye DFF-20 Lazarus Valve

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    #76
    Originally posted by Cdn_Cuda View Post
    I am not having a lot of luck with my Lazarus valve yet. Shooting in the 220 to 240 range but purging a lot of air when shooting. I think my HPR is too high. Using the lightest ID main spring.
    I got nothing for that one.

    The CCM is a bit shorter and lighter than the lightest ID spring. I wouldn't think a high hpr would negatively affect this valve. Do you know what pressures you are running?

    Comment


    • Cdn_Cuda

      Cdn_Cuda

      commented
      Editing a comment
      I swapped my HPR to a one set to about 180. Seemed to fix my issue. Not sure whether it’s an issue with the one reg or the how it was set.

      Now shooting 255-284 with a 685 stock Sniper barrel. It’s no longer venting my entire tank either!

    • scuzzy
      scuzzy commented
      Editing a comment
      Maybe try the 675 barrel back and see how it goes? I get great consistency and velocity with an under-bore.

      Side note, I really like the empire barrel kit that comes with these snipers. Honestly, I like everything about the sniper except the macro lines. But since I doubled up the o-rings, it's leak free

    • Cdn_Cuda

      Cdn_Cuda

      commented
      Editing a comment
      I had a good underbore with the 685 barrel. The last round of field paint was on the large side. So much so I couldn’t use my Nova with a 682 insert.
      Last edited by Cdn_Cuda; 11-20-2023, 01:33 AM.

    #77
    Mine is in the mail, and I was wondering what the lowest possible pressure anyone has got out of it, I would ideally like to make a marker without an LPR, if I have to I have a Clippard LPR but, it would be much cleaner to not have it at all.

    Comment


    • Cdn_Cuda

      Cdn_Cuda

      commented
      Editing a comment
      That does bring up some interesting options in regards to LPR, but an LPR drops to what 60-80 psi? The Lazarus looks to be 160-200 range. But would a smaller LPR be feasible due as it only requires a smaller pressure drop?

    • Euphie
      Euphie commented
      Editing a comment
      The goal is to get a solenoid that vents at 120ish to work since it could fit in the grip frame I have without much issue. The clippard LPR is rated to 300psi input pressure iirc so worst comes to worst I can throw it on the front of the marker and run a hose into the grip frame but that will be ugly lol.

    #78
    Originally posted by Euphie View Post
    Mine is in the mail, and I was wondering what the lowest possible pressure anyone has got out of it, I would ideally like to make a marker without an LPR, if I have to I have a Clippard LPR but, it would be much cleaner to not have it at all.
    It would be nice to integrate an LPR into the block, maybe even the 3-way, not like the trilogy, maybe into the grip frame and blazer mount the ram. Then again, if the force to open the valve is low enough, you hold ditch the hammer... Wait a minute, am I design a spool valve gun at this point?

    Comment


      #79
      What are the benefits of this valve?

      Comment


        #80
        Originally posted by Insixdays777 View Post
        What are the benefits of this valve?
        I talked to Mark Davis about it. He said in cockers the benefit is not huge, but it is in pumps. Much lower pump force due to light Hammer spring and more efficient with lower pressures so you can play the big scenario games with minimal fills.

        He said he was following Angry paintball tests of the valve though, and that his opinion might change.

        Beyond that, I know little, other than it is working much better than my stock sniper valve to get the results I'm looking for.

        Comment


          #81
          Anyone shove one of these in a Bushmaster yet?
          Feedback

          Comment


            #82
            Originally posted by Brokeass_baller View Post
            Anyone shove one of these in a Bushmaster yet?
            Not yet, but I'm going to try to slam it in a b2k4 I have, and eventually in the spare Defiant body I have. I've got enough spare b2k parts to put one together as well.
            MCB Feedback

            Comment


            • Myrkul

              Myrkul

              commented
              Editing a comment
              I would love to throw one of these in my bushy or defiant or both. Keep us posted.

            • Myrkul

              Myrkul

              commented
              Editing a comment
              Euphie You mean a spimmy?

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            • Euphie
              Euphie commented
              Editing a comment
              Myrkul I might end up making it into a spiny but the current goal is more of a spycal that is a ram in the top and bottom tube like an Excalibur, if it proves to be difficult then my plan B/C is to go spimmy or see if I can make a spring forward air return ram work as a mechanical spimmy. I have lots of rams and lots of Spyder bodies laying around to mess about with

            #84
            Originally posted by Jordan View Post
            Will there be another run, or was it a limited release?
            I saw somewhere a Dye rep saying the next batch will come around 12/22.

            Comment


              #85
              Originally posted by Insixdays777 View Post
              What are the benefits of this valve?
              Same thing as LP has always done for cockers, lowers the force needed to open the valve so you need a lighter hammer spring which reduces the LPR which also reduces the pressure on the bolt so it's even gentler on paint and reduces the chances of chopping. That's really always been the big goal, getting as low pressure as possible. It's one reason tuned cockers are usually very quiet.

              Comment


                #86
                Total heathen thought here, don't cocker valves work in Spyder pumps?
                WTB phantom dropout valve-any color
                Feedback: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...our-s-feedback

                Comment


                  #87
                  Originally posted by Impactfour View Post
                  Total heathen thought here, don't cocker valves work in Spyder pumps?
                  I had to modify my front block to fit the valve in my Spyder body because it is very long, also it seems to need the pin punched out of the body or it won’t line up with the valve retention screw

                  Comment


                    #88
                    Originally posted by Euphie View Post

                    I had to modify my front block to fit the valve in my Spyder body because it is very long, also it seems to need the pin punched out of the body or it won’t line up with the valve retention screw
                    Euphie Other than a self-contained spring housing why would you want to use this valve on a blowback?

                    edit: if you are making pathways for the blowback that are larger than the stock balancing hole (path of least resistance) the air will escape out to the hammer defeating the purpose for this valves design - it will no longer be a balanced valve. I would suggest modifying a Spyder VS valve to have a self contained spring housing - the VS valve balancing is designed for the blowback use case.
                    Last edited by latches109; 11-29-2023, 07:48 PM.

                    Comment


                      #89
                      Spump! Or Spocker. Or masochism.
                      Feedback: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...eedback-thread
                      Nelspot/CCI Sears and Triggers
                      Action Markers Valves

                      Comment


                        #90
                        Originally posted by latches109 View Post

                        Euphie Other than a self-contained spring housing why would you want to use this valve on a blowback?

                        edit: if you are making pathways for the blowback that are larger than the stock balancing hole (path of least resistance) the air will escape out to the hammer defeating the purpose for this valves design - it will no longer be a balanced valve. I would suggest modifying a Spyder VS valve to have a self contained spring housing - the VS valve balancing is designed for the blowback use case.
                        Because I am putting a pneumatic ram in there, that is why I was trying to figure out if I could get it going at a low enough pressure to avoid an LPR in an earlier post because as it stands now I am gonna have a very ugly LPR drilled and tapped into the volumizer and a hose ran back to the ram.

                        Comment


                        • pghp8ntballer
                          pghp8ntballer commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Why don’t you just use an intimidator vertical adapter? The LPR screws in the front like a volumizer and the block has the port for the ram air line.

                        • pghp8ntballer
                          pghp8ntballer commented
                          Editing a comment
                          For reference https://www.ebay.com/itm/255733473949

                        • Euphie
                          Euphie commented
                          Editing a comment
                          pghp8ntballer Mostly, because I don't have one, but I did consider it. It is actually kinda expensive to buy them with an LPR, I don't know what happened to all of the Intimidator LPRs, I used to be able to find NiB Evil ones for $10. Same thing with Intimidator rams, all of the ram sleeves seemed kinda expensive. Intimidator front blocks and rams themselves seem very plentiful but ram sleeves and LPRs not as much. Right now I am using an Autococker ram, screwed into a block, that is then screwed into a brass tube and that tube is secured to the body, which seems a robust solution if nothing else. What I do have is an intimidator grip frame with single trigger and single trigger guard, so I will probably use that. Also I didn't know it at the time, but the intimidator parts would probably have to be modified too, because the Lazarus valve is really long.

                          Since my DIY brass ram sleeve sticks out the back a bit, I might go full retro and just make a brass plug for the front and tap it for 1/8" NPT on the front and the bottom, and run a minicocker ASA (which I think I have around here somewhere) and put the brass Clippard LPR on there and find a brass barrel and polish it all up lol, because that will be alot of brass
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