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Old 11-15-2012, 10:52 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Michigan

Originally Posted by kospauste View Post
Does anyone have any advice for tuning with the TechT bolt in a TiPX and stock spring? I installed one in my gun and it breaks paint 1 out of every three shots. I switched paint brands, still the same issue. Swapped back in the stock bolt and the breaking improved to about one in every three magazines. I've checked velocity, Co2 consistency and I use a Lapco .687 TPX barrel.

The one odd thing is that the oring that seats into the breach block to act as a bumper for the bolt gets caught in the spring after firing. Would removing that cause an operational issue?
Yep it would, I'd leave it in there. I'm wondering about the body of your pistol and your spring. There's a flange inside that when the body is together holds that oring pretty well. Are you sure it's not going there as you take the pistol apart or put it together? The only way that oring could come unseated is either the body flange is messed up or the spring is bent slightly and is porpoising the oring out of there. If it's the spring catching, that could also cause your breakage as the return stroke is delayed giving the next ball time to get snugged up against the bolt before having the oring groove of the boltfront dragged over it.
Most breech breaks in a tipx are cause by bolt bounce. The bolt returns to the rear after firing and bounces forward breaking the next ball in as it comes up, the ball then sits in your breech broken waiting for you to pull the trigger to find out you're bummed.
What stops this bounce is 2 things, the spring and the bumper. The original bumpers that were delivered to Tippmann were 'not good'(he said sarcastically). The bumper should absorb shock not magnify it and reflect it in a bounce.
The spring holds the bolt against the bumper. Weaker springs like the TechTs intended to increase efficiency actually increase bolt bounce and have the side effect of causing the bolt to jam forward more often in breaks as they have less strength to push the bolt back out of the breech when it's clogged by shell.

My advice is not a sure thing, but won't cost too much to try. I would go online to TippmannParts and order a new spring and bumper. My bet is that you'll find the spring you get in the mail is longer than the one you have.
There are a couple of home remedies.
IF you're comfortable gently holding the spring you have and stretching it a 1/4" or so, that's something you can try. You could also try coating the bumper on both sides with the Tippmann Grease. That's a warm weather trick, in the cold you may find it works better for a bit then not at all as ice builds up.
The only other culprit I've seen for breakage at the level you describe is a bent trigger pin inside the small block on the side of the valve. You can pull this out and roll it on a smooth flat surface to see if it wobbles any.
While I don't change this pin on a cycle, I do keep spares on hand always. Because I'll pour a case through a tipx in six hours of play rain or shine, I have a problem with shooting the pistol dry. I've literally cleaned all the lube out of a pistol by lunchtime.

I shoot alot and replace both spring and bumper automatically when each tipx reaches the 4 case mark. Remember springs and bumpers are temporary, like wipers on your car, even good ones slowly get compressed and wear out.

Hope that helps!
We play Pistol and we encourage the Few despite the discouragement of the Many.

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