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|05-08-2010, 06:51 PM||#22 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: South Hills of Pittsburgh
Does anyone know about sharpening a worn sear? If the part that catches the bolt gets work, that should be easily sharpened, right? (I am trying to get around spending $25/sear on 3 mags...)
If you have ever played speedball, this is your worst nightmare....and it happened to my teammate at the 2003 IAO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfGrQSbvFUs
My YouTube Channel with Shocker Turbo Videos:
|05-09-2010, 12:16 PM||#25 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: columbus, oh
|05-09-2010, 03:04 PM||#26 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: North East Pennsylvania
Can you sharpen it? Sure. Will it work for very long? Nope.
|05-10-2010, 09:44 AM||#27 (permalink)|
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Powertube spacers don't squash or deform the pt o-ring, they just hold it back at the right distance to seal properly (spacing). The AGD bolt is two pieces, with the stem being separately manufactured from the body before assembly. If the position of the stem varies from the back face on a particular bolt, the spacer is used to compensate. The original solution was the powertube o-ring spring, but they would wear out and get too short eventually.
You can see from the animation that too long of a spacer puts the o-ring off the end of the stem, causing a leak (thread post #2 by SWE). Too short of a spacer causes the bolt to stop before the sear can catch it. Air pressure keeps the o-ring sitting up against the end of the spacer.
Since the pt size hasn't changed, the shoulder on the stem (or lack of one) will change the air flow through the bolt, making the shoulder-less bolts higher flowing. Since mag bolts didn't really have a problem with that, I would just consider it a different flow profile.
Bolt and sear wear are usually associated with a trigger rod being too tight, so that only the tip of the sear catches the bolt. There's normally more than a 1/16" catch surface on the sear and it takes a whole lot of normal cycles to wear either down. That's the tiny dents in the bolt rim. A too short on/off pin can do the same thing, but interference from the trigger rod is more common. It can be hard to tell, since you almost need a short pin to run a tight trigger rod without shootdown.
some things are stickier than others
Last edited by Spider!; 05-10-2010 at 09:53 AM.
|05-13-2010, 09:58 PM||#28 (permalink)|
Join Date: May 2007
A couple things, as a long time 'mag user.
The difference in "stock" bolts 3 and 4 - the were called "foamie-less" bolts. AGD came out with a "long nose" bolt to help address ball chopping at the feeding point. The thought was that the older style bolt would catch and chop the next ball if it fed too far into the breach. That's not been the case with my 'mag personally, but I use a foamie bolt and would encourage anyone shooting a 'mag w/o a Level 10 bolt to use a foamie bolt. The foamie is a "stock" bolt from long ago, no doubt. Those you show are the "foamie-less" bolt which were in response to 'mag shooters getting tired of having to glue on new foamies. The "foamie-less" were hard on paint, unless you use "hard paint".
And the issue of "sharpening" the sear. You need to keep in mind that the tolerances on a 'mag are very very very tight. making changes to the sear will throw off the tolerances. You will not be happy with the results. Get on automags.org, or post a WTB ad here, and look into purchasing sears there. Or, simply order them through AGD or one of their retailers. The sear is a "wear part".... it wears out eventually, but it takes years and years and a lot of playing to get there.
And my 2 cents on the power tube spacers - I always liked the power tube springs. Realize they would break from time to time, but really liked the feel of the trigger with that set up. Could get a soft trigger with a decent snap to it.
Last edited by Scott Hudnall; 05-13-2010 at 10:02 PM.
|05-19-2010, 01:58 PM||#29 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2009
In response to spider that does makes sence, it also explains why a lvl 7 bolt will stick slightly in a powertube after it's been aired up but will slide on and off easily after the first time you pull it off, I wondered why it would do that.
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