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Old 12-20-2017, 08:41 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Duzzy View Post
Is there any way to make the internals attach to a tray that bolts into the frame?
Adding a "removable tray" would be an engineering nightmare, and it's unnecessary. The only adjustments you can make is on the LPR and there's no reason it would need to be removed for that. There's ZERO adjustments on the T-Rex.
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Old 12-20-2017, 09:00 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke-AO View Post
Adding a "removable tray" would be an engineering nightmare, and it's unnecessary. The only adjustments you can make is on the LPR and there's no reason it would need to be removed for that. There's ZERO adjustments on the T-Rex.
You know the system better than I do, and can see more than I can (e.g. the driver's side of the grip). It looks like if you had to, it would be difficult to work on with everything mounted to the inside; that's all. If that's not a big concern, than it's not a big concern.
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Old 12-20-2017, 09:09 PM   #53 (permalink)
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There's a single screw that holds the T-Rex in and the LPR simply screws into the frame. If any repairs need done, you would just disassemble it as you would any other part of the marker. This does not require all the tinkering like the other pneumag builds if that's what you're referencing in respect to tuning.

The left side of the frame looks exactly like the right, if you look closely you can see pretty much everything.
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Old 12-20-2017, 11:53 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Nah, I just have bad luck with things like this. The one time I tried to own an autococker the front end was a nightmare. Could have been a lemon, could've been me; I just remember it being problematic and unpleasant.

So I look at it and think, "Okay, if I blow a hose how hard will that be to reattach?" Or, if I need to rebuild the LPR, how many tiny, tiny wrench movements is that going to be? Will I need to remove the barb to unscrew the LPR? And am I going to destroy the barb in the process?

And not everything is apparent, because I still haven't figured out how the air gets routed into the LPR...


Quote:
Originally Posted by luke-AO View Post
There's a single screw that holds the T-Rex in and the LPR simply screws into the frame. If any repairs need done, you would just disassemble it as you would any other part of the marker. This does not require all the tinkering like the other pneumag builds if that's what you're referencing in respect to tuning.

The left side of the frame looks exactly like the right, if you look closely you can see pretty much everything.
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Old 12-21-2017, 12:47 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
So I look at it and think, "Okay, if I blow a hose how hard will that be to reattach?"
Piece of cake.


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Or, if I need to rebuild the LPR, how many tiny, tiny wrench movements is that going to be?
Not many. This thread design is different than a standard full length pipe fitting. It also uses an oring seal, no thread sealant will be necessary. Easy to install and remove.


Quote:
Will I need to remove the barb to unscrew the LPR? And am I going to destroy the barb in the process?
No, the barb is attached to a manifold that swivels 360*
The barb has an oring seal too (Same as the T-Rex) which makes them easy to deal with.

Quote:
And not everything is apparent, because I still haven't figured out how the air gets routed into the LPR.
The bottom of the frame, between the asa screw holes.
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Old 12-21-2017, 01:00 AM   #56 (permalink)
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See, all of those fancy things are hard to see in a rendering.

All of it sounds really well thought out and well designed. Don't own a mag that would need a Z-grip, but I think people will be happy with it.
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Old 01-10-2018, 12:20 PM   #57 (permalink)
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I'm posting this here because both the Z2 and LcMP90 frames are hinged off the new LPR project and I've had a bunch of inquiries about the LPR threads. Threads are standard 1/8-27 NPT (1/8" pipe) so 'other' LPRs will still work in these frames. The new LPR has a shorter thread design that seals with an o-ring instead of thread sealer. It can be screwed in by hand, down to the point of contact with the o-ring, then about a 1/2 to 3/4 turn with a wrench seats the LPR. It should make for easy assembly/disassembly and it can still be used in all standard 1/8" pipe threaded holes. If the o-ring doen't have a flat surface to seal on you can still use a thread sealer for those applications.

This is a test block to check the settings of the new extra long tooling needed to do the Z2 LPR machining, the picture just illustrates the difference between a standard 1/8" pipe fitting and the new LPR mounted profiles.
I'll have the LPR prototype done real soon..

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Old 02-06-2018, 02:06 PM   #58 (permalink)
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AO Z-Grip Preorder

There was such a flurry of interest on AGD's FB post but after 3 months only 14 walking the walk by putting money where their mouth is.

"Interested" is not window licking and liking something such as a Ferrari, it is ABLE and possibly willing to spend money on something. If you're able to spend $200 on a custom Automag frame, at a price point LOWER than what the original Z-Grip is trading for, I hope you will spend it on this Z2 that is sleeker, lighter, completely ready-to-go and pneumatic trigger-capable!

Please look again at posts #46 & #49 on page 5 for the renderings. Let's make this happen! (If this was made for 'Cockers it probably would have hit 100 already.)
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Old 02-18-2018, 01:34 PM   #59 (permalink)
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The Z2 Grip project is getting closer, we need 9 more pre orders to get it off the ground. Pre-orders are discounted, post production prices will be higher. I'm also offering a small discount to upgrade your frame with complete Pneu-Mag components. https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...-Grip-Preorder
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Old 03-22-2018, 12:57 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Discounted frames are ending April 1st.
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