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Old 12-13-2017, 01:23 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Also I was using a sound activated halo at the time and my brother was using a spire
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Old 12-15-2017, 09:35 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Ok so question. Is it possible that if the paint is of inconsistent size but as close to a bore match as possible that when rapid firing, two consecutive balls could hit each other in the barrel and cause a break?

I did some testing today. I didn't change anything just trying to break down what's happening. I took some marballizer as that's what had been giving me the worst chops, I then but a small balled up piece of tissue in the breach and put a ball in so it would simulate a half fed ball. Pulled the trigger about 10 times and no breaks, just a chuff and reset like perfect. So I don't think the level 10 is out of tune. The I decided to shoot some paint. I only have a .687 barrel right now and the paint is pretty close to that with some rolling out no problem and some bore matched all from the same bag though. When I was rapid firing I chopped of course but also I swear one time I saw two consecutive balls hit each other in flight, which kind of makes sense as the velocity will climb when rapid firing. So could this be happening in my barrel and being exacerbated by the barrel to paint size match like the first paintball in a string could be slightly larger than the barrel and the next one slightly smaller or vice versa, thus causing the difference in velocities between the two balls to change so much that the two connect and break? If that makes sense? The only thing that makes me uncertain is that would then technically be a barrel break but when I chop I will have paint all on the bolt and the chamber and even sometimes in the feed neck but I'm not sure if that could just be from paint being sloshed everywhere from firing a string off
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Old 12-15-2017, 10:48 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I sincerely doubt you're seeing enough variation to cause two paintballs to hit inside the barrel.

Assuming you're shooting 280 fps (which means a paintball travels 1 foot every .003 seconds), you'd have to be shooting over 280 balls per second to even have to start worrying about that.
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Old 12-16-2017, 09:13 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Ok I wasn't sure. Just after testing the lv10 like I did and getting no chops it just didn't make sense. But I have since removed all the shims from my shp tank so supposedly it should be at 950 psi and also I put in .745 on/off instead of a .740 on/off and I will try adjust the tension screw on my rotor. I am going to be playing tonight and Saturday nights at the field is always speedball night with no caps so hopefully it will work out. If all else fails i will see if the shop has some big bore barrels and try to get the to lower the velocity enough to wear i can put the red spring in and crank it up a little, I have never had problems when using the red spring, but I can never use the red spring during actually play because of velocity requirements
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Old 12-16-2017, 09:51 AM   #25 (permalink)
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More likely a ball shot "mid chuff", so to speak. Often (on one of my X valves) when it would "LX" there would be a quick reset shot right after that didn't make velocity.
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Old 12-16-2017, 11:39 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Alrighty so update time. Played tonight, things I changed before playing were I changed the barrel from a v3 eigenbarrel with a .687 back to a cp one piece classic with .689. The main difference is the cp has camfered lips. Also I used valken infinity, and I took the shims out of the shp ninja reg and used the .745 on off pin for the x valve. The gauge on my asa was saying that the pressure had actually gone up 200 psi from 1200 to 1400 psi after removing the shims (don't know why it did that but I will contact ninja about that). Gun worked pretty good with no chops at all or barrel breaks, that is until I tried to put some marballizer through it to see what happened. The trigger was less reactive than before changes were made but still able to get some strings off when needed most of the time, and even with the few breaks from the marbs the cp barrel was great as all it took was a few shoots to help clear it out and I was back to accurate
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:43 AM   #27 (permalink)
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just consider marbs as garbage and most of your problem. put the .740 pin back in and see if that gives you the reactivity your looking for.
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Old 12-18-2017, 01:08 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Oh yeah I think that was the problem all the way, like I said not a single chop with the valken and it wasn't half bad at all, definitely worth 35 bucks. I will try with the .740 pin and see how it does with that
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