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Old 10-09-2018, 02:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Compatibility questions...

I'm looking to piece a Mag together using the following parts, and I want to know if they are compatible with each other before I start buying stuff.

Pre-Classic Valve (w/ unwelded powertube)
Level 7 bolt
ANS Phase 2 regulator back
ANS Phase 2 venturi bolt
HSI Reactor On/Off

The idea is to run the CO2 tank in a vertical ASA with a sidecar PPS Stabilizer, connected with tiny brass microline. I want to set the regulator at ~800psi (just a number, shot in the dark, have to start somewhere), then devolumize the valve to match that output pressure. This is why I want the unwelded powertube. Then sweetspot the regulator to that new valve volume, whatever the final output pressure ends up being is ultimately irrelevant so long as it is consistent.

This will be running on CO2 only, with a single trigger Z-grip, AC threaded 14-16" rifled barrel w/ Freak XL inserts, and a 20-25rnd springfeed.

I am well aware of the benefits of HPA. I actually WANT to build a CO2 only Automag.

I am also well aware of what people say about the ANS Phase 2 regulator back, and I still WANT to use it. My only concern is if it will be compatible with the pre-Classic valve.

I'm fairly certain that the pre-Classic valve is compatible with the Level 7 bolt, so the ANS Phase 2 bolt should work just fine. I don't really think that venturi bolts are any better than non-venturi bolts, but I simply WANT to use the ANS Phase 2 stuff.

HSI Reactor generally speaks for itself. I just need to know if it works in the pre-Classic valve.

The experiment/process of devolumizing the valve, and sweetspotting the regulator to the new volume is intriguing to me. Nothing against Tom's parts, but there is this purists mentality surrounding the Automag that makes me a little bit sick, so I'm really wanting to branch out and use the ANS Phase 2 stuff.
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Old 10-09-2018, 02:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidBoren View Post
I'm looking to piece a Mag together using the following parts, and I want to know if they are compatible with each other before I start buying stuff.

Pre-Classic Valve (w/ unwelded powertube)
Level 7 bolt
ANS Phase 2 regulator back
ANS Phase 2 venturi bolt
HSI Reactor On/Off

The idea is to run the CO2 tank in a vertical ASA with a sidecar PPS Stabilizer, connected with tiny brass microline. I want to set the regulator at ~800psi (just a number, shot in the dark, have to start somewhere), then devolumize the valve to match that output pressure. This is why I want the unwelded powertube. Then sweetspot the regulator to that new valve volume, whatever the final output pressure ends up being is ultimately irrelevant so long as it is consistent.

This will be running on CO2 only, with a single trigger Z-grip, AC threaded 14-16" rifled barrel w/ Freak XL inserts, and a 20-25rnd springfeed.

I am well aware of the benefits of HPA. I actually WANT to build a CO2 only Automag.

I am also well aware of what people say about the ANS Phase 2 regulator back, and I still WANT to use it. My only concern is if it will be compatible with the pre-Classic valve.

I'm fairly certain that the pre-Classic valve is compatible with the Level 7 bolt, so the ANS Phase 2 bolt should work just fine. I don't really think that venturi bolts are any better than non-venturi bolts, but I simply WANT to use the ANS Phase 2 stuff.

HSI Reactor generally speaks for itself. I just need to know if it works in the pre-Classic valve.

The experiment/process of devolumizing the valve, and sweetspotting the regulator to the new volume is intriguing to me. Nothing against Tom's parts, but there is this purists mentality surrounding the Automag that makes me a little bit sick, so I'm really wanting to branch out and use the ANS Phase 2 stuff.
I don't know about the reactor, never played around with one, but everything else should work just fine. The ANS parts aren't any better or worse than stock, about the only difference will be the engraving. As long as you're not getting liquid in the valve or trying to shoot ropes on a cold day Co2 should work fine as well.
I doubt you'll encounter many purists around here, Frankenmags are a time honored tradition. Give it a shot, it might be magic...
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Old 10-09-2018, 02:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The only part I would recommend steering clear of is the ANS bolt.
During the period that the bolt works you'll constantly be replacing the foamie as it blows out. Then, a short time later, the lip of the bolt will become rounded due to the fact that it is made of an inferior metal. At that point you'll start to get sear slippage and a host of hard to identify problems all stemming from the crappy bolt.
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Old 10-09-2018, 03:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Location: Portland, OR

Would getting the bolt anodized remedy or mitigate the premature bolt wear? I will avoid the ANS bolt if it's that bad. But everything else is already getting anodized, I don't think it would hurt to get the bolt done, too.

Either way, thank you for the heads up on the ANS bolt. Your advice is appreciated.
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Old 10-09-2018, 04:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maggot View Post
The only part I would recommend steering clear of is the ANS bolt.
During the period that the bolt works you'll constantly be replacing the foamie as it blows out. Then, a short time later, the lip of the bolt will become rounded due to the fact that it is made of an inferior metal. At that point you'll start to get sear slippage and a host of hard to identify problems all stemming from the crappy bolt.
Good job maggot!

That was a piece of mag lore that I knew at one time years ago, but had forgotten until you mentioned it.
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Old 10-09-2018, 04:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidBoren View Post
Would getting the bolt anodized remedy or mitigate the premature bolt wear? I will avoid the ANS bolt if it's that bad. But everything else is already getting anodized, I don't think it would hurt to get the bolt done, too.

Either way, thank you for the heads up on the ANS bolt. Your advice is appreciated.
You can't anno it. It is just a softer steel than agd spec. The foamie on it is also far smaller so it doesn't stay on as well as thr agd ones. You'll be far better off with an agd foamie bolt or standard nose.
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Old 10-09-2018, 04:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If you are specifically going to run the ans reg back make sure that it is not on the oldest valves. they were not indexed and the regulators were not interchangeable. so if you can find one that someone can swap the reg on and the z lock pin lines up in the same place that body will work for you.

Let me know if you need a devolumized valve. I can cut the weld and make a spacer or 2 that you can drill out your self and get it setup where you want.

link to my shop fb page is in my signature.
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Old 10-09-2018, 04:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dano_____ View Post
You can't anno it. It is just a softer steel than agd spec. The foamie on it is also far smaller so it doesn't stay on as well as thr agd ones. You'll be far better off with an agd foamie bolt or standard nose.
Isn't the phase two bolt the no-foam venturi one with the concave face? Did I have absolutely everything wrong here?
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Old 10-09-2018, 04:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The Mag bolt is steel? Why? Because everything else in it is also built to survive the apocalypse. 1990's paintball engineering, man.

Thanks for the warning, guys.

Yes, the ANS Phase 2 bolt is concave venturi faced. I wasn't sure about the foamie stuff in reference to the ANS bolt, either.
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Old 10-09-2018, 08:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DavidBoren View Post
The Mag bolt is steel? Why? Because everything else in it is also built to survive the apocalypse. 1990's paintball engineering, man.

Thanks for the warning, guys.

Yes, the ANS Phase 2 bolt is concave venturi faced. I wasn't sure about the foamie stuff in reference to the ANS bolt, either.
They typically come with a foam dot in the middle of the Venturi about the size of a pencil eraser. I have heard that when the foam falls off there are problems with the ball rolling back if you use a force feed hopper and the next ball gets clipped.
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