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Old 05-18-2019, 11:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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So, it's been a few years...

I haven't used a classic valve Mag in better than at least 15 years, probably longer. I picked one up here on a good deal, swapped out for a ULE body and took it to the field today.

I have been using HPA powered high end electros for some years now. I don't even bother carrying a barrel swab with me any more. I found out today that you cannot shoot an old LV7 mag without one in your pocket, not use competition grade paint in it.

I will say the one plus to the whole situation was coming home, airing it up and running it under the hot water in the sink to clean it out. About five drops of oil after dry firing it several tens of times, then that many more with the oil, and it's ready to go again. Why open it?

Fun to shoot a marker on CO2 again too.....
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Old 05-19-2019, 04:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Paint size is a bear on twist locks. My mag went from blender to quite playable with Doc's twistlock-to-cocker thread adapter

It's a shame because I do think the twist lock concept is superior when sized correctly, but inserts don't cut it, it has to be the bore drop itself
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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hard nose or foamie level 7? I have used a foamie level 7 with no problems and I have level 10's on my rt's and X mags. which detent do you have and do you have the old style or the parabolic power feed plug?
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Giggle at that both of you have missed the "swapped to ULE" part. I hate powerfeeds.

It's a hard tip bolt, but comes right even with the breech. There wouldn't be room for that small foam bit.
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Old 05-26-2019, 05:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I used it exclusively today on 4 star and CO2. It shot like a dream. Only an unrelated issue with an old brass fitting I used. Fully steel braided line and I used four "patina matching" old brass 90's I had available. I apparently over tightened one of them and cracked it enough to start leaking half way through the day. Otherwise, LV7 bolt and a revi with that paint, overbored a touch presented no issues all day long.
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Old 05-26-2019, 06:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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"Competition grade paint" there is your problem.

I hate brittle paint!
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Old 05-26-2019, 06:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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"Competition grade paint" there is your problem.

I hate brittle paint!

Well, I actually like really brittle paint, according to the marker I am using, and in relation to it being really round. I have always rather been a paint snob. I was very impressed today with the LV7 Mag's ability to digest this 4 star paint that I have a good deal of right now. In winter time I will be looking at 1 or 2, probably a cheapo HPA tank too. Much as I talk **** about mag's I do have a deep down love and appreciation for them and cockers.
One of the other guys today was using an 04 Prostock that I tuned and it was HUMMING along nicely.
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Old 06-05-2019, 06:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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This old post over at automags.org harkens back to a different day in paintball. Can you imagine the young electro crowd accepting "good" paint as detailed in this post from Tom Kaye?

Tech Tip #4 How to Test Paintballs and Adjust Breakage
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Axel View Post
Paint size is a bear on twist locks. My mag went from blender to quite playable with Doc's twistlock-to-cocker thread adapter

It's a shame because I do think the twist lock concept is superior when sized correctly, but inserts don't cut it, it has to be the bore drop itself
Given that they’re over-bored for modern paint and that they have a continuous honed finish from breech to muzzle, I see no reason why twist-locks would blend paint any worse than any other barrel. If anything, twist-locks should be slightly easier on paint than adding seams and ID reductions with AC barrels and adapters, right?

Is it possible that your particular twist-lock barrel might be the culprit for the paint blending you experienced? Did more than one barrel give you this issue? The reason I ask is because I have an SP Teardrop one piece twistlock barrel that lives in a parts box because it utterly shreds paint due to jagged edges that protrude from the porting into the control bore. Has nothing to do with the fact that it’s a twistlock; it was just made terribly.
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Given that they’re over-bored for modern paint and that they have a continuous honed finish from breech to muzzle, I see no reason why twist-locks would blend paint any worse than any other barrel. If anything, twist-locks should be slightly easier on paint than adding seams and ID reductions with AC barrels and adapters, right?
-With Automags, I've found it has everything to do with the breech size and detents.

Considering that almost no one ever made a "tight bore" 'Mag barrel (that is, a twist lock) you usually wind up with a bore- and therefore a breech- around .693".

Throw in an old-style wire or plastic detent, neither of which stick out very far- and a ball of today's common small size can "roll around" in the breech. If the ball is allowed to roll too far forward, you have the dual problems of the bolt smacking it, and/or the second ball in line being struck as the bolt passes.

With my adapter, the "finger" detent sticks out quite a bit further (relatively speaking) than the factory 'Mag detent, which helps keep the ball up against the bolt face. Combine that with a breech bore as small as I can get away with (about .688"- any smaller and a lot of L10 bolts will "stick", since there's a slightly oversized 'ring' where the tip is brazed to the body of the bolt) and it makes the 'Mag pretty much as reliable as it's going to get, even with some of the more brittle "tourney" paints.

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