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Old 02-02-2020, 02:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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SPAR valve orders (auto-response trigger valve for Automag)

ThisÖis the SPAR valve. Itís a Select-fire, Pneumatic, Auto-Response trigger valve for the Automag Intelliframe that cost about $100.

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Shooting demonstrations:
1st Prototype
2nd Prototype with safety switch
3rd Prototype with single trigger frame

The valve is mounted/hidden inside the frame like a typical pneumag set-up, but this can fire the marker on both the pull and release of the trigger. It also has a rotating selector-switch safety (E-MAG style?) with three positions: safe, single fire, and auto-response. This is a significant improvement over previous mechanical auto-response frames, which always fired twice with each trigger pull (even if you only wanted to take a single shot). The SPAR valve also has a much lighter trigger weight (about the same as a classic on/off assembly).

The cost for this mod is $100. That covers the valve, the safety, the milling, some new grip screws (the stock screws are too long), and the return shipping in a small flat-rate box. (I can also ship to Canada and overseas if you cover the extra cost.) You must also provide a frame and an LPR.

This is not a pre-order. Iím building these one-at-a-time on a first-come, first-serve basis. I will only ask you for payment when Iím ready to start working on your frame.

How does this work?
1. Let me know you want to be on the list. (Post here or send me a PM.)
2. Find yourself a frame and an LPR. (See the notes below on which kind to get.)
3. Fill out this order form.
4. Wait for me to contact you.
5. When itís your turn, mail me your frame and send me your $100 payment. (I accept PayPal, or you can send me a personal check or money order with your parts.) Donít forget to include the order form inside the box.
6. Wait a week or two.
7. Once you receive the modified frame, you will have to bolt it onto your Automag and mount/tune the LPR. This will be easy, and Iíll send you a video manual showing you what to do. You will also have to cut your grips to make room for the safety-switch (or I can do this for you if you ask).

More details:
The valve itself is pretty simple. There are only two moving parts (the trigger pin and the piston), and the o-rings inside are off-the-shelf #006 silicone o-rings (1/4" OD and 1/8" ID) that are easily replaced. The internal assembly is held in place with a single 5/64 pin, so it's easy to take it apart and replace the o-rings when needed (probably once a year or so). It will also work on pretty much any Automag with any valve. X-valve, classic valve....whatever. You will, however, need an RT on/off assembly. A classic on/off won't work. (I can't make any promises about a ULT on/off either.)

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The piston is made from polished 5/16 steel rod. The back end has a nubbin that fits a u-sup seal. This is also easily rebuilt.

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I'm offering two safety styles: the servo arm and the 3D printed version. Either style can be mounted on the left or right side of the frame, and they are held in place with the same ball-and-spring assembly used in standard AGD frames.

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Your frame will have to be milled to make room for the SPAR valve. I will also drill a 1/8" hole in the back of the frame near the hole for the field-strip screw. This is for resetting the sear. (It's a common mod for all pneumag frames.)

By the wayÖI should note here that this modification will permanently alter your trigger. Besides milling the frame (which won't affect "normal" operations), I will also have to grind down the back part of the trigger to fit the safety switch. So, if youíre thinking of just trying this out and then going back to normal if you donít like the valve, you won't be able to use the same trigger again. You will have to buy a new one.

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FAQ:
What frame should you use?
I prefer AGD-spec frames (Intelliframes, x-frames, any other double-trigger frame from AGD, anything from Lukeís Customs, Airwalks, Logic UMFs, etc.). Still, I can probably make this work on almost any other frame that you want (Dye, Angel, Ion, etc.), though I will have to charge you $25 for the extra time required for testing and milling if I havenít worked on that particular model before. Unfortunately, I cannot do this modification to carbon fiber frames or Benchmark frames. (See post #3 below for a full list of compatible frames.)

What LPR should you use?
Iíve built over a dozen pneumags over the years with a variety of set-ups, and I can tell you will complete confidence that really any LPR will do. The smaller ones (like the old stock models from WGP) tend to look nicer mounted on Automags, but I would just go with whatever youíre comfortable paying for. Personally, I prefer Palmerís LPRs because they are really easy to service, and you can buy knobs for them to make adjustments easy, but they can be expensive.

How hard is the trigger pull?
Itís hard to compare this to anything else Iíve shot. Itís not as crisp as an Automag RT on/off. Itís not as snappy as a pneumag. Itís certainly heavier than a ULT. But the pull is light enough that my finger doesnít get tired after shooting 100 shots in a row, and itís smooth and predictable. Itís versatile too. With practice, you can shoot the Automag once even when you have it set to auto-response. You just have to pull the trigger halfway and then stop.

Can I do VASA milling?
One of the coolest ways to install an LPR on a pneumag is to have it mounted on the front of the VASA. If you want, I can easily do this for you for an extra $10 if you send me your VASA with the rest of your parts.

Sleeper Set-Ups:
If you want me to make you a sleeper (with the LPR hidden inside the frame), I can do that too. You can see a sample of my work here and here. Sleeper set-ups cost an extra $80 for Intelliframes because I have to build a manifold. If the frame has already been designed for a sleeper, however, I can do it for $25-$50.

If you do what a sleeper set-up, you will need a few extra things. First, you need an LPR thatís small enough to fit inside the grip frame. You will also need an ASA with a direct-mount or a dovetail rail (no T-slot rails). Personally I prefer CP on/off ASAs since ANS-Gear still sells them new for about $35, but any dovetail ASA will do.

Last edited by rawbutter; 03-31-2020 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 02-02-2020, 02:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Here's the order list/status. I'll try to update this regularly, but if I miss someone, please send me a PM.
  1. scottieb (finished!)
  2. Grendel (in progress)
  3. Rusty Brass
  4. Maggot
  5. afdoc
  6. knownothingmags
  7. ArmageddonSportz
  8. Anthony W.L.
  9. redsst

last updated on 16 Feb. 2020

Last edited by rawbutter; 03-31-2020 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 02-02-2020, 02:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Here's the video manual. Sorry it's so long.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=420xCc396p8

Last edited by rawbutter; 03-31-2020 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 02-02-2020, 02:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Why Should You Buy an Auto-Response Frame?

One of most common questions Iíve gotten about this project is ďWhy should I get an auto-response valve instead of something else?Ē And I get it. Thatís a really great question.

When the first auto-response frames hit the market, there werenít that many other ways for to make Automags shoot faster. But in the years (decades?) since, we seen the RT Automag, the e-mag, and the pneumag. If youíve got $100 to spend on an upgrade, and if all you want is more balls per second down field, then honestly, you might be better off with something else. You can buy a T-Rex from Lukeís Customs for about the same cost as this auto-response valve, and that thing has a trigger pull thatís feather-light and super short. Even me, if I had to pick only one kind of frame to haveÖI would choose a pneumag over an auto-response. I can tap fire a pneumag when I want to shoot slow, and then I can walk the trigger when I need to shoot fast. And I donít have to flip a switch to change how fast Iím shooting.

BUT, back when I was in the testing phase for this thing, I brought one of the prototypes to a game and let a few other players try it out. And as I watched my buddies shoot off string after string of fast shots, I had an epiphany. You see, as fast and as cool as RT mags are, they require practice to shoot fast, and even with lots of experience, finding that sweet-spot can be tricky. I can usually only fire small bursts before I mess up and have to reset the trigger. Pneumags can be just as difficult. I always have to make sure Iím holding the frame just right to effectively walk the trigger. Pneumags also canít be loaned out easily because theyíre scary and strange to most other players. I know quite a few guys who donít like pneumags (or any electronic gun, for that matter) because it doesnít feel like ďrealĒ trigger. Itís too easy to shoot the thing accidentally.

An auto-response trigger, in comparison, is childís play. When I brought the prototype to my local field, one of the guys who tried it out was brand new. He had never played paintball before that day. But he could shoot the auto-response mag just as fast as anyone else. It wasnít scary or strange to him. It was simple, straight-forward, and easy. He shot through half a hopper at 10-12 balls per second without missing a beat. The smile on his face afterward was pretty great too.

So that my answer, I think. If you want a super-fast mag, get an RT valve and a high output tank regulator. If you want versatility and that cool-factor, get a pneumag. But if you want something easy and familiar, get yourself a SPAR valve.

Last edited by rawbutter; 02-02-2020 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 02-02-2020, 02:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Reserved for being first in line! Put me on the list. I've been following this since you've first posted and am really excited for it.
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Old 02-02-2020, 07:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm defintely onboard with this, but I need a couple of days to figure out what frame I wanna use. I have an Intelliframe that I can use for this, but I also have a Luke's Customs MP90 frame unanodized that I can use for this. I can't lose no matter which way I go, but it's such a hard decision to make.

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Old 02-02-2020, 08:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yup, definitely want in on this. I'll take a spot.
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Old 02-02-2020, 11:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Please put me in line as well.
Thanks!
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Old 02-03-2020, 06:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Add me as well. I do have an A4 frame I'd like converted but was questioning where the selector switch may go as there isn't a ton of room with the grips.

Last edited by afdoc; 02-03-2020 at 06:29 AM.
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Old 02-03-2020, 08:20 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afdoc View Post
Add me as well. I do have an A4 frame I'd like converted but was questioning where the selector switch may go as there isn't a ton of room with the grips.
It would be tight, but I'm pretty sure I could make it work.
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