Boards and frames
My viking is at dc now and I'm contemplating on purchasing a tadao board. I have a pandora board that came with it. Is there any advantage to the tadao?
I've seen a lot of Vikings with dm frames. Do you guys like them better than the stock frames? Where can I get different triggers? Dc site is down and acid isn't taking work.
I've had a lot of luck with the Tadao Musashi 5 board in my Viking it's easy to program and offers useful modes. I've kept the Pandora in my Excal which and it has worked wonders for me - when I "upgraded" to a Tadao Ebisu it was unreliable and frankly barely functional. Tadao was unable to get it running right.
As for the frame, I think DM frames are pretty goofy looking on DMs... On Vikings I can't help but gag when I see them installed. That said, I think (most) Ego frames are pretty sharp looking on Egos and I think they look like hell on Vikings too. I love the stock 45 frame and I've seen just how light DC can make them, plus they stock a good variety of trigger styles. If you're dead set on a "new" frame I've seen people modify humpback ICD 45 frames which open up more trigger options and are very comfortable, plus they can be had for cheap.
Good to know.
I think ill go ahead and get the musashi and stick with the stock frame.
If you are going to sell your pandora board when you get your tadao board I am interested
The Tadao will allow you to use modern modes and can be set via the trigger and updated via USB. With Pandora, there is a more modern firmware called RMod that was written by a member here, but switching between modes requires a special cable and connecting to a computer which is kind of a pita. I have had very good luck with WAS 2.0 as well, but Tadao seems to be the crowd favorite.
As far as frames, anything with a flat bottom can be modified. I find the stock frames very comfy myself. With triggers, the main differences are whether it has a roller bearing and if it has a spring or magnet return. Here are some pictures to help. Keep in mind though, so of these these frames and triggers are hard to find and very sought after.
AKA Frame with JMJ Darkworks Trigger
AKA Diet Milled Single Trigger Frame
JMJ Frame with JMJ NURVous Trigger
JMJ Snatchgrip Frame with JMJ Razor Blade Trigger
FBM Frame with JMJ Reverse Blade Trigger
Tarantula 90 Frame and Froth Blade Trigger
Frenzy Frame (takes Ego7/8 board) and Acid Customs Trigger
PM5 UL Frame (takes UL board and trigger)
What is a pandora board worth?
Also would you guys reccomend the NURVous trigger or the acid customs trigger.
I like the shape of those but was curious on your thoughts.
something i tried out on my old viking
DM5 frame, forward mounting, with Tadao yakuza board, and some grips that i cut a window into
i went back to stock because.. though it felt great,, it screwed with my ability to be super accurate.. i was always off by a few inches of where i wanted the ball to go
I'd say the best thing to do is find out how much an M5 is used, then knock 25-35% off that price and list it. If you don't get any bites, take it down another notch, rinse repeat. It's still a great board, just not as desirable.
You can put any trigger into the frenzy frames, but they just don't play nice without slight modification.
DC modified a jmj blade for me with a post travel adjustment screw to avoid the issue where the activation screw gets caught behind the microswitch.
I think you can see it in this picture:
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