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Old 10-19-2011, 10:06 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Ahh, so it is. Why did they make it out of plastic that is bound to break. Does it need to be springy or is it just a static peice that just steers the index finger out of the slot?
If so, then one could re-make that entire plastic front with the tab in lets say aluminum so it will hold a little longer.

Is there a cad model in existance of the 3357 cylinder and its tabs and notches?
Yes, it has to be springy, as it flexs in more and more as the index finger moves up.

No CAD of any 3357 parts that I know of.
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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About indexing...

I've noticed that you can't shoot "western style" with a newer 357 as the indexing finger seems connected to the trigger rather than the hammer!

On my olders 3357 the action is perfect single/double action; when I keep the trigger pressed and shoot (slamms?) actuating the hammer, the cylinder turns right after each shot; not with my newer 357...

Didn't have the time to open these to see what is the difference, but I think I could come from the sheetmetal part which connects the hammer, the trigger and the indexing finger...

Any though Acrewofone yet?
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titansteam View Post
About indexing...

I've noticed that you can't shoot "western style" with a newer 357 as the indexing finger seems connected to the trigger rather than the hammer!

On my olders 3357 the action is perfect single/double action; when I keep the trigger pressed and shoot (slamms?) actuating the hammer, the cylinder turns right after each shot; not with my newer 357...

Didn't have the time to open these to see what is the difference, but I think I could come from the sheetmetal part which connects the hammer, the trigger and the indexing finger...

Any though Acrewofone yet?
You are correct, the difference is in the index arm. On 3357 (and older 357) the arm is pushed down in the back, hence up in the front, by where it's connected to the bottom part of the hammer (arm hinges on the trigger pin):



But on newer 357 the arm is pushed up by the back of the trigger, where the longer end of the link rod sticks through, so the hammer movement does not affect the index arm at all:

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Last edited by acrewofone; 10-25-2011 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Hey thank you Sir!

Now I see I will have to mill and bend myself a new arm to name myself "Nobody" again

But what a strange choice from Crosman! They didn't change anything from the original version, but this?! Weird... :/
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Titansteam View Post
Hey thank you Sir!

Now I see I will have to mill and bend myself a new arm to name myself "Nobody" again

But what a strange choice from Crosman! They didn't change anything from the original version, but this?! Weird... :/
Yes weird, another difference is the newer index finger is wider at the base (see how the end of the index arm "bumps out" a little more than the older style, where it hooks to the index finger)? Because of this, the slot in the newer style frame is wider, but the tip of the index finger is the same width as the old style....weird

Well, besides that, the newer 357 has a longer end on the link rod, where it comes through the back hole in the trigger and pushs the index arm, also the newer frames are narrower at the handle base, to accept the 2 piece black "hogue style" grips.

I guess Crosman didn't want you shooting "western style" anymore, since the 357 no longer has "western style" grips...j/k
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Last edited by acrewofone; 10-25-2011 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:21 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Sounds odd because of the need of developping a whole new cinematic scheme just for disabling the "western style" shooting abilities, regarding that a standard Python can "Western Shoot!"

Btw maybe this research cost so much that they had to spare on the building materials of the gun; I found the newer version a lot more cheapy than the older!

Especially on the barrel; the rifling is slighter and they even replaced the lead ballast by a piece of metal (I kept to my lathe materials ^^)

But I'm getting out of topic; Pming ya about some other things while I'm thinking about
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
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While on the subject of .3357's... Does anyone have a bit clearer picture of a newer .357's internals? Like the second picture that acrewofone posted, just a bit clearer?
I took my .3357 convert project apart ages ago and haven't been able to get the thing back into working order since...
Also, I'd be interested in a cylinder if anyone ever decides to make anymore... I've got a barrel on my .3357 but have yet to get a hold of a cylinder.
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:05 PM   #18 (permalink)
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While on the subject of .3357's... Does anyone have a bit clearer picture of a newer .357's internals? Like the second picture that acrewofone posted, just a bit clearer?
I took my .3357 convert project apart ages ago and haven't been able to get the thing back into working order since...
Also, I'd be interested in a cylinder if anyone ever decides to make anymore... I've got a barrel on my .3357 but have yet to get a hold of a cylinder.
Here is a clearer pic of the newer 357 (with a broken off hammer tang):



and here is a video of 3357 assembly, same as 357 assembly except the different shaped index arm (and he uses a little spring, in place of the barrel latch rubber block).

3357 Spotmarker Assembley - YouTube
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Last edited by acrewofone; 10-25-2011 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:35 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titansteam View Post
Now I see I will have to mill and bend myself a new arm to name myself "Nobody" again
Would you like me to make a cad model of the link arm for you with exact dimensions?
It will be metric, but on plus side it will only have 0.025mm error margin due to the insane accuracy of the 6axis digital probing arm at work.
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:54 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Would you like me to make a cad model of the link arm for you with exact dimensions?
It will be metric, but on plus side it will only have 0.025mm error margin due to the insane accuracy of the 6axis digital probing arm at work.
Hey GhostPilot!

Thank you for the offer; that could be a plus, but take your time for it

I was hoping my 0.01mm caliper would do the trick (I think contourning the part on a sheetmetal with a pen would me more precise than this ^^)

Oh and I'm from France; I do work with metric
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