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|05-20-2008, 01:11 AM||#11 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC
Sorry, I meant the squeegee port. You just double up a rubber band in an x-shape and it keeps the paint inline with the bolt instead of coming partway out. The antichop sleeve is a more permanent modification to the chamber, making it bore drop instead of breech drop.
As for those random 68 special parts, I just put up a WTB ad for a mangled forward reciever half for a qloader mod. You have any with broken feednecks?
Last edited by russc; 05-20-2008 at 01:18 AM.
|05-20-2008, 12:36 PM||#13 (permalink)|
Official DSG Fanboy
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Oshawa, Canada
Even short bursts of full auto must create some pretty clouds. Mine creates a light frost on the bolt in cold morning games after shooting 15-20 in rapid succesion.
|05-20-2008, 12:41 PM||#14 (permalink)|
Inch of Gold
Actually..how are you getting that to cycle with the gas-through stock? Are you still getting enough liquid in the valve to cycle, or have you done some other mods?
I always thought it would be interesting to take the valve apart and put in a nice light spring, and do some "ULE" on the rear bolt to try and get one of these old Tippy's to cycle well on HPA, or at least regulated CO2.
|05-20-2008, 02:10 PM||#15 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Southern Maine
Back in the day, I was able to run my 68-Special on a remote, with a siphon.
The first 10-15 shots had low FPS, but once the liquid gets into the valve, its all gravy after that, and it ran pretty well.
A few have talked about ways to upgrade the Tippmann valve to run HPA. The problem is not springs, or hammer weight, but the valve volume. With liquid guns, the valve volume is made as small as possible to improve liquid effeciency. With HPA, the valve acts as a wicked bottleneck, and it won't flow fast enough to push a paintball out at 300fps.
A solution would be to drill into the side of the valve, through the body, and add an LPC. Enough slack so the valve can still float freely. Thats alot of work though, for no actual benefit beyond conveniance
EDIT- Also, I think Azzy talked about using an HPA tank, modified to output at 1400psi? or higher? Not sure how that worked out though. Seems to me that after a certain point, the pressure is going to hold the cupseal closed, and you may never get the FPS you want with that method
"the evidence strongly suggests that neither Billy nor Adam (Smart Parts) could have invented the electronic paintgun" -Garr M. King, U.S. Judge
|05-20-2008, 04:18 PM||#18 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Dodge City Kansas, kind of like the Old West
I remember seeing a drawing of an anti-chop sleeve some time back but didn't get enough answers about them. Do I just make it from some thin brass sheeting? Do I need to mill room for it inside the reciever or will the bolt clear it if the material is thin enough? Does someone have a spare sleeve they want to sell with information on how to mount it?
...so many questions, so few answers.
Dan, I'll try to check my special tonight and see what size bolt you need.
|05-20-2008, 04:26 PM||#19 (permalink)|
Corpses Eaten: 0
Anyway, pm Rap4paintball here. I believe he still has the antichop sleeve from the special I sold him, maybe he can give you dimensions or pics.
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