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Old 07-09-2014, 12:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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A friend of mine took an older 48/3000 to get it tested last year. They passed it but said it wouldn't pass again because it was rusted inside. My question is why did they pass it that time then?
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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they won't pass it again bc it will CONTINUE to rust if used in the same manor. some pb shops compressors blow by oil. I've seen it. or worse water bc they don't empty their separator on the compressor. for example. they clean the tank of the rust and you take it right back to the same place to repeat said process over again.
most tanks fail bc like said above..... the threads get bogeyed up.
you ever seen the cross section of pb tank? scuba tank? scba tank? the are pretty durable.
just don't abuse it.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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at my local hydro shop we must remove regs before handing it over. Maybe they ran into threading issues also but I was under the impression that thats how it was done everywhere. I learned something today.
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Old 07-12-2014, 10:47 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I blame the tester as they may not know about the loctite used in PB.
The local tester told me that paintballers are far more gently on the tanks, compared to other groups, like divers, or industrial uses (ie welding, construction, etc).

Usually, the only reason for a failure on paintball tanks is from the use of Loctite. Loctite is never supposed to be used, according to the tank manafacturers.

But the use of loctite is a whole can of worms. You are supposed to properly torque the thread, but people found that its easier to just slab on some loctite, and don't bother with the correct torque.

That method seems to work, until someone discovered that the loctite clogs up the emergency vents, and someone died as a result.
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Old 07-12-2014, 10:52 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Of the two tanks I sent in one failed due to the threads being screwed.
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Old 07-12-2014, 11:05 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I never use loctite, just tourqe it down as hard as I can with my hands. When pressurized it's not possible to unscrew the reg and tank without great effort.
But you have to be careful when you're removing an almost empty tank, otherwise you'll be changing the reg o-ring.
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Old 07-12-2014, 11:15 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I remember talking to a rep at Ninja or GA cant remember which one, back when they were pushing there rehydro deal with a new reg deal at PSP. I inquired about the failure rate of tanks and they had said out of all the tanks they do a hand full have failed in years of doing it. Only the really damaged / abused ones have ever failed with visible damage. It's a formality for DOT mostly. I would still get a tank rehydroed its cheap to have done and worth not dealing with the hassle at fields that check for it.

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Old 07-16-2014, 09:40 PM   #18 (permalink)
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More than 20 hydros under my belt, no failures.
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Picked up a couple 12oz tanks for $10 each and I'm wondering where the date is. It's a pure energy, is the date on the top line or bottom?
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:44 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Picked up a couple 12oz tanks for $10 each and I'm wondering where the date is. It's a pure energy, is the date on the top line or bottom?
Top. Stamped into the tank itself.
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