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|09-13-2016, 09:59 AM||#1 (permalink)|
Started in '89
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Maumee, OH
Help with Spyder Opus
I own a couple of 50 cal Opus A's so my son and I don't have to rent at the field. The field limit is 215fps for 50 cal, but I am unable to get the guns under 250fps with the velocity adjuster screwed out all the way. Both of these guns are pretty much new and I got them for $25 each shipped. If I don't have to rent guns from the field one time they will be paid off.
I am hesitant to go with lighter main springs (or cut them) since the guns will barely recock with the adjuster out all the way. If the guns are not clean with plenty of oil on the hammer o-ring they will burp with every shot and fail to recock. I am using 13ci tanks with an output of 750-800psi so there should be plenty of pressure.
The valve is a standard cup seal arrangement with a shaft that runs through the center that gets struck by the hammer and a hole through the top of the valve to allow air into the bolt to propel the ball. Where it gets tricky is that there is not much room around the shaft to allow air to blowback the hammer. The blowback is accomplished by a hole drilled through the side of the valve with a small hole drilled from the face of the valve to the hole out the side. This is the first time I have seen this arrangement. It could be what Spyder has done for years but I have never had one before. I am used to Tippmann's inline blowback system.
I think I have two ways to lower the velocity. One would be to enlarge the small hole in the face of the valve allowing more air to blowback the hammer. This would allow me to go with lighter springs (if I can find any) or cut the springs (I hate doing this since it doesn't change the spring rate, only lowers the amount of initial tension). The other way would be to leave the hole in the face of the valve alone and simply restrict the amount of air going through the top of the valve into the bolt. Sort of like the way Tippmann has adjusted velocity in their pumps and blowbacks for years. This wouldn't mess with the amount of air used to recock the gun.
What do the experts say? I think my second option would be the easiest (tap the hole, fill with set screw and drill a smaller hole through it.) Are there any other options I am missing?
Thanks for reading my ramblings.
|09-13-2016, 02:18 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Just Some Rando
Join Date: Mar 2012
More similar to your Tippmanns would be to add an obstruction directly to the bolt.
I&I Sports has replacement parts in case you make a mistake, or want to go back completely stock.
The ability to drop velocity is a big part of why I prefer the GOG eNMEy for .50Cal. That the new models can swap between .50 and .68 is just one more added bonus. However, you likely wont find them at $25.
|09-14-2016, 03:27 PM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2016
Easiest option would be to modify the striker spring or find a suitable weaker replacement.
Not sure what the dimensions are for the springs. If standard spyder springs work you could also try a stronger valve spring to decrease valve dwell (how long the valve is open).
I like Spyders.
MR1, MR2 LP, EMR5 LP, EM-1, Raven Primal, Victor, Fenix.
Magfed Hurricane with T15 Mags
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