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Old 08-27-2017, 11:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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a number 6 power tube would help but you really need to address your bore size like uv halo pointed out.
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Old 08-27-2017, 11:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I never tried alternate hammers so, I couldn't address them but, your theory sounds fine to me. In my experiences, the main benefits of the springing were smoothing/lightening the pump stroke and, getting the velocity just right.

The biggest problem here is the barrel, they were truly set on big bore paint- even in 2004, Marballizers were rolling right through them with no drag.
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I can bore Bushmaster barrels... Or even build you a new one in .678.

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Old 08-28-2017, 11:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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A heavier hammer should get you more velocity without an over powered main spring. I've never owned a bushmaster and didn't know they had such a light hammer.
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:43 AM   #15 (permalink)
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....I feel like the lightweight aluminum hammer might be part of the problem. Why would they use such a lightweight part here? Are replacement stainless hammers that interact correctly with the bolt available? For that matter, are my guts normal, stock bushmaster parts? The powertube is marked with a number four, for what it's worth.

https://s9.postimg.org/w41pnf5ov/20170827_214430.jpg

I'm using nail polish detents right now but the paint I'm using is quite small- probably in the neighborhood of .674. Will this gun even be usable until I freak bore the barrel?
  • Never had an Aluminum Hammer [IIRC] with any of the Bushmasters I've owned. Are you sure it is aluminum? If it is [aluminum/light weight] a stock stainless steel hammer will help with velocity.
  • Moving from the #4 Power Tube to a #6 will help quite a bit.
  • You can use nail polish to build up enough to use your barrel but it will take quite a bit of patience and lots of layer. A Freak bored barrel or a replacement barrel is the best way to go. IIRC the Bushmaster barrels I've had were all around 0.690 or bigger.
  • Another thing instead of using nail polish is to use electrical or coaches tape around the inner circumference of the barrel end to decrease the initial bore of the barrel. When I've done that it the past I left a little overlapping the face of the barrel so when it is locked in place it will not peel up.
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:48 AM   #16 (permalink)
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The freak bored barrel would also be my first suggestion shooting any paint that is smaller than 680.
If you have find larger paint try some of the following suggestions with the nail polish detents.
I usually try light main spring and heavy valve spring as the first try when chronoing nelsons. Also make sure your tank output it 700-800 psi. Lower pressure will result in lower velocity.
Stainless Lapco or Taso internals are available. Also steel Taso internals are available.
Some hammers have an adjuster in them. If yours does then play around with it and add some more spring tension but you probably wont have much luck if you are starting out at 210 fps.
Shimming the valve spring will add more tension to the valve spring and make it hard for the hammer to open.
Another choice is a heavy main spring, if you have a 2 inch red mainspring from a madman kit. Or you can just feel your 2 inch mainspring and compare it to other mainsprings you have. Go with the one with the most tension to begin with. More tension will throw your hammer back harder, hopefully opening your valve more to let more air out.
Also, check your current spring and make sure it's not 1 and 5/8 inch. Autocockers with plug IVGs use 1 and 5/8 inch so sometime they get mixed into nelson pumps which need 2 inch main springs.
Also, as others have mentioned you can check your powertubes Inner diameter. A larger diameter will give you more air and a higher fps during each shot. A 4 is probably .165 a 6 is probably .18 inches. There are taso 5s and smaller numbers if your velocity was higher, going down to -1.
Hope that helps!
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Dan, are there steel LAPCO or TASO hammers that interface correctly with the stock SI bolt? I ask because I've got a CMI Thunderpig and Empire Trracer hammer in my parts box, and neither link up properly with the SI bolt.

And yes, the SI hammer I have right now is aluminum. It has a velocity ajduster- a spring perch with slots for a flathead screwdriver that can only be reached when the gun is fully disassembled. Was this the only kind of adjuster that came with the SIs? Because it's roundly inferior to the common down-the-barrel bolt-based adjusters I was familiar with.
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:24 PM   #18 (permalink)
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That is the stock method of adjustment for these internals. Some of the stock Line SI hard anodized Aluminum hammers will have allen rod notches and then you can drill out the back of the hammer slightly for the allen rod to fit so you can slip the back bottle asa off and turn the velocity up there.

The Taso and Lapco (Bore drop) internals line up correctly, Trracer/Razorback, Diablo and original Hammer internals do not (haven't had a hammer 7).

The Thunderpig would be breech drop though right?

The Lapco Spirit Bolt and hammer set are my preferred style for breech drop (Howdy bolts are also nice but not as common). One benefit of the Spirit bolt (and ghost bolt) is that the hammer catch ridge on the bolt is thicker and will not wear as easily.
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Every Line SI I owned was just like that one, inside. I like TASO guts a lot more.
I used to run a Stabilizer and red Phantom mainspring with a standard phantom valve spring to get up to velocity but have easier adjustment, and a #6 tube. One of the new Phantom regulators might be in interesting option if you can find a good mounting point.

Edit: Bacci beat me to it.
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:45 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bacci paintball View Post
That is the stock method of adjustment for these internals. Some of the stock Line SI hard anodized Aluminum hammers will have allen rod notches and then you can drill out the back of the hammer slightly for the allen rod to fit so you can slip the back bottle asa off and turn the velocity up there.

The Taso and Lapco (Bore drop) internals line up correctly, Trracer/Razorback, Diablo and original Hammer internals do not (haven't had a hammer 7).

The Thunderpig would be breech drop though right?

The Lapco Spirit Bolt and hammer set are my preferred style for breech drop (Howdy bolts are also nice but not as common). One benefit of the Spirit bolt (and ghost bolt) is that the hammer catch ridge on the bolt is thicker and will not wear as easily.
So the LAPCO hammers will work despite not nesting into the bolt like the stock SI hammer?
What about those NW hammers you have? Will they link up properly?
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