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Old 09-11-2017, 10:58 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Definitely the capacitor. I just replaced one on an old Spyder Fenix.
I've never actually had a clapper go bad, it's just a magnet and pin.

If there is any bulge at all at the end of the capacitor connected to the board it's bad.

Super easy fix.
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Old 09-12-2017, 05:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quoting the last thread, but several other members mention it as well. Lovely cheap, poor (more like NO) Quality Control components out of China. There has been a batch of these capacitors that are poorly made and do not like heat (like in a hot garage in the summer time) which swell and fail. Typically a capacitor is not heat sensitive (okay unless something is really wrong and cooking the circuit itself). This was and still is a problem with computer motherboards manufactured in China, and sadly anything else with these components. Yea, replacing the capacitor should get that board back in action.

Glad to hear it is back up and running.

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Originally Posted by seajay View Post
Definitely the capacitor. I just replaced one on an old Spyder Fenix.
I've never actually had a clapper go bad, it's just a magnet and pin.

If there is any bulge at all at the end of the capacitor connected to the board it's bad.

Super easy fix.
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:54 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Here are pictures of the board and the capacitor. I don't see anything but maybe the trained eye will.
I need to take a small wire brush to one of the battery connectors but it says it's getting power. Maybe not enough to run the sear tripper?

Sorry the pictures are so big. I have no idea how to resize attachments.
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File Type: jpg 20170912_171504.jpg (276.3 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg 20170912_171441.jpg (270.7 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg 20170912_171422.jpg (268.8 KB, 54 views)
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Since this thread started with boobs what are we supposed to derail it with?
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Someone ban that painthappy dude
Stock class = 12grams and a stick feed. End discussion.

Last edited by Greenmtnphantom; 09-13-2017 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
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That's a ton of corrosion on that terminal. You might be right that it isn't the capacitor.
Yes, that much corrosion would prevent contact with the battery.
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yeah, I picked up one of these on here recently and had a similar problem. Apparently these shipped with batteries, or someone had installed them long ago. One of the AA (or AAA, I forget the exact size) had leaked badly all over the board, which wasn't working correctly. I soaked the board in vinegar, and then distilled water to neutralize, blew out/dried with compressed air, then baked in the oven at the lowest temp setting. This sort of got me a working board. The eye's weren't always functioning correctly, often sensed a ball when the breach was open. It would also sometimes switch modes randomly, even with the tournament lock on. I tried another pass with the vinegar/water/blowing/baking, but didn't get any better results. Finally I decided to bake it longer, thinking maybe a little liquid hiding somewhere was causing the problem. This ended up killing the board for good.

I ended up buying another one, and this one came with a good board. It also came with batteries pre-installed, but none of them had leaked this time.

This doesn't seem to be your problem, your board look clean. Badly discharged batteries sometime switch polarity, which can sometimes damage electronics.
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Old 09-13-2017, 05:19 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Leaned it up and checked the connections on the other 2 which all looked clean.

So apparently in ACI's infinate wisdom (They did some really smart things in my opinion with this gun, this just isn't one of them) There is a "tourny lock" which amounts to a wire that you can access by taking the grip off. You need to bend it in order to connect it to the other side.

Doing this changed things a little bit. It powers on, and the clapper moves... As long as the gun isn't cocked. Once cocked, no dice, nothing. Paint in the chamber or not, eyes hooked up or not. I ran out of time to mess with it for today. We will see what I find next.

William the Third. Same thing here, one of the guns the battery leaked. The other guns were fine.
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Quote:
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Since this thread started with boobs what are we supposed to derail it with?
Quote:
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Someone ban that painthappy dude
Stock class = 12grams and a stick feed. End discussion.
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Old 09-13-2017, 11:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenmtnphantom View Post
So apparently in ACI's infinate wisdom (They did some really smart things in my opinion with this gun, this just isn't one of them) There is a "tourny lock" which amounts to a wire that you can access by taking the grip off. You need to bend it in order to connect it to the other side.
Yeah I found that hilarious too. It's actually a resistor that has one of it's legs bent around 180 that was then snipped in the middle. If you straighten up the leg a bit, you could get a jumper on it to use as a lock. Not that you need it, it's not like anyone is going to be playing any tournaments with these.

That said, they are kind of neat, for what they are. I was thinking of putting Universal T-Board into the one that had the bad board.
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Old 09-14-2017, 07:06 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I have what I can only guess is an earlier one as the milling and trigger are different and match the pictures in the manuals that I got with these ones. I really like that one because as a Spyder clone it's stupid simple, AC threaded means I don't need to invest in more barrels, and the standard vert ASA is nice, and it's just different enough to be interesting. PLus it didn't have this stupid "Tourny lock"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaD View Post
Since this thread started with boobs what are we supposed to derail it with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drum View Post
Someone ban that painthappy dude
Stock class = 12grams and a stick feed. End discussion.
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:34 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Any ideas on why they would be working when not cocked but not when it is cocked?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaD View Post
Since this thread started with boobs what are we supposed to derail it with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drum View Post
Someone ban that painthappy dude
Stock class = 12grams and a stick feed. End discussion.
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Old 09-23-2017, 09:42 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Any ideas on why they would be working when not cocked but not when it is cocked?

So the noid clicks when not cocked, but can't release the striker when cocked?

That's a power issue. Either battery, or the capacitor can't hold the needed charge to trip the seer.

May have to replace the cap after all.
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