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Old 11-30-2017, 05:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Tippmann Without Valve Spring?

Recently took the valve spring out of my VM to make it reliable on HPA.
I've been wanting to make my tippmann lower pressure for a long time, and was considering getting the lightened valve springs form techt, however removing the spring entirely could work just as well (or better).
Just wondering if anyone has tried anything like this, and if it worked well or not.

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Old 12-01-2017, 12:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I used to run a lot of different Nelson-based guns (Phantoms, Bushmasters, AGS Bloodsuckers) without a valve spring, it does work, but you get velocity fluctuation.
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Old 12-01-2017, 06:54 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE-SHOOTIST View Post
I used to run a lot of different Nelson-based guns (Phantoms, Bushmasters, AGS Bloodsuckers) without a valve spring, it does work, but you get velocity fluctuation.
Anything a regulator wouldn't solve?

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Old 12-01-2017, 07:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Anything a regulator wouldn't solve?

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Back then, regulators weren't available for Paintball.
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Old 12-01-2017, 11:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLINDMAN Pb View Post
Recently took the valve spring out of my VM to make it reliable on HPA.
I've been wanting to make my tippmann lower pressure for a long time, and was considering getting the lightened valve springs form techt, however removing the spring entirely could work just as well (or better).
Just wondering if anyone has tried anything like this, and if it worked well or not.

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If you want to run your Tippmann 98 on lower pressure, the valve spring isn't the first change you should make.

In early April I set out to find out how low I could take pressure on my Tippmann 98 while maintaining velocity of ~280 fps.

At that time it had polished internals, reg, RVA, and spring kit, running on HPA with tank reg output somewhere between 850 PSI and 900 PSI.

I recorded in my testing journal (I can't be the only one that keeps one right? Right????) that on the lightest spring, lowest RVA setting, and with 500 PSI input pressure my 98 was able to achieve velocities in the 240-250 fps range.

As I worked up through spring, RVA, and pressure combinations I ended up with the strongest spring, RVA at 6 turns in (out of 10), and ~625 PSI input pressure to achieve consistent ~280 FPS velocity.

---

So, if you want to run your 98 on lower pressure, get an RVA, spring kit, reg, and polish your internals. Leave the valve spring alone.

If you want to further tinker (and what mayo-blooded MCB member doesn't?) go for a light valve spring afterwards.

I have since installed a DIY lightened hammer, light valve spring, and techt pin kit (thanks magmoormaster!) and will be posting results shortly.
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLINDMAN Pb View Post
Anything a regulator wouldn't solve?

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No, the problem is not the incoming pressure it's the dwell timing of how long the valve is open

The spring helps the valve close on time as well as keeps it centered in the valve body. Take it out and the air pushes the valve around hitting the side walls until it finally closes

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Old 12-06-2017, 12:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Another observation from playing around with my Spyder blow-backs.

A very weak, or no, valve spring, and Low pressure, and high volume can put the marker out of timing with the valve. Basically I had air still venting through the valve while the bolt reset, which lead to the next ball being fired out of the barrel. So I'd get 1 ball at 280 fps and a 2nd ball at ~100fps? maybe less. Probably a volume issue. Had me puzzled for a bit.
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