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Old 05-29-2019, 02:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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ACI Maverick Issues

Hey all, I've recently come to own two run down ACI Mavericks which I have stripped and parts interchanged to make one that works. Played with it this weekend and had a few issues, the marker itself couldn't hit over 190 fps, but when it was took to bits and put it back together then it shot 250 fine, which was very unusual. Then when i got home that evening after filling the tank before leaving, a day later the tank on the back is completely empty (granted only a 13ci but still worrying). Would a leak like this have an impact on the markers performance? Could it be O-rings? Also is there a particular kit people buy for Orings for Mavericks given how old they are? (UK here)
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If it's leaking air slowly (Over night) it can really only be either the tank Oring, cup seal or the Valve Nut Oring.

Orings - slight leak will be out of either end of the valve body depending on which one it is. These should be easy to find at a hardware store or field. Valve nut maybe a little harder if it isn't a metric size but you should be able to get something that will seal.

Cup Seal will cause a leak down the barrel. It's been a while but I think this one just had an Oring in the brass cup. Again. take it to a hardware store or some place local and get one that matches.

Manual might have the ring sizes. https://www.mcarterbrown.com/manuals/ACI/Maverick.pdf

As far as velocity, you can always change out springs or polish the hammer. Those will probably be the easiest places to start.
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Old 05-29-2019, 04:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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As mentioned, there are almost no places these leak outside of the end of the valve area. A quick diagnosis for you would be to take the valve off the gun and screw it onto a tank with the power tube etc all installed. Take some soapy water and a cotton swab. Put the water on the seams and see if any bubbles form. If not, put the soaking swab and put it over the end of the tube. If you don't see bubbles there, check to make sure the tank oring isn't leaking slightly.

As for velocity, you could have a couple things going on. Some Mavericks have an adjustable velocity bolt. If it has an Allen head inside when you look at the front, you can adjust the velocity by turning that in and out. Otherwise as mentioned you need to change springs. Your velocity problem could also be due to balls rolling out away from the bolt further. The barrel on these is large and without some sort of detent mod most all modern paint rolls through.
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Old 05-29-2019, 06:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The paint size problem will massively affect velocity. Even the biggest stuff out there now might roll out of this guy. You can’t use rings (bore drop) and you can’t freak the stock barrel (too thin) so what we are left with is a gun that never breaks being made defective by shrinking paint. Maddening.

The hammer has to move very nicely without binding on anything. If it gets cocked in there a bit as it flies back you won’t have consistency.

The leak should be easy to find. There’s only one moving real seal in the whole gun. There is also an o ring in the valve body.
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Old 05-29-2019, 06:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Titus makes a .685 bore barrel for these and ssc made a cocker adapter at one time
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Old 05-29-2019, 06:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Cheers for the replies guys. I've made a makeshift detent that has worked wonders so I don't think that is the issue, so it could be the springs or O-rings as mentioned. Most of the orings and springs have been changed from their stock by the previous owner so I have no idea what is normal but i'll check the manual. I've been able to change the velocity using the key down the barrel but at the time, increasing velocity still meant shooting 190. Would springs still cause an issue even with the allen head adjuster?
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Old 05-29-2019, 07:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Another question regarding the sight rail; Is it possible to make one nowadays for picatinny, out of other parts? Are the screws the same thread as for the rest of the marker too, just alot shorter? The holes don't look particularly suitable and looks like screws may interfere with the bolt
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Old 05-29-2019, 09:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Cheers for the replies guys. I've made a makeshift detent that has worked wonders so I don't think that is the issue, so it could be the springs or O-rings as mentioned. Most of the orings and springs have been changed from their stock by the previous owner so I have no idea what is normal but i'll check the manual. I've been able to change the velocity using the key down the barrel but at the time, increasing velocity still meant shooting 190. Would springs still cause an issue even with the allen head adjuster?
The velocity adjuster only gives you a trim. The springs are the course adjustment. If itís maxed on the adjuster and you are slow you either need more main spring or less valve spring.

This type of gun shoots faster on CO2 as it predates HPA totally. Maybe thatís a big factor here, maybe not.
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Old 05-30-2019, 08:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Try a lighter valve spring. Again, shopping locally for something is probably the easiest way unless you can find the pencil strength of the spring some place online.

Another thing would be to set the velocity adjuster near the middle of it's travel for testing when changing out those springs. That way you can adjust a little as needed. Some Nelson based guns also shoot very low if the velocity adjustment is turned to far in.
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Old 05-30-2019, 09:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If it's an option you can try CO2. There's more latent energy in CO2 so you can usually get higher velocities with it.
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