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Old 08-13-2019, 01:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
VoodistMonk
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Portland, OR

Stacked tube blowback sear questions...

I was given a Game Face Vexor... generic STBB... but it is vertical feed, and the EKO valve fits nicely, and I have a "spare" DYE Spyder now...

The frame fits well, but doesn't release the striker.

I replaced the Game Face striker with the DYE Spyder striker, same thing.

The spacing is off. So I preloaded the sear with a click-pen spring around the sear stop pin. Still hitching, no release.

Would macroline over the sear pin be too much preload to be safe? I haven't even checked if that would release the striker or not, yet.

I don't have to use this frame/body combination if it comes to spacing the frame off the body, but ideas are welcome.

For those that still tinker with the stacked tube blowback markers.
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You're sure the sear can move low enough to clear the striker? You could try some washers between the frame and the body (maybe), just to see how far apart the striker and sear need to be.

We used to grind the bottom edge of the striker a little to shorten that travel.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
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was going to say the same thing lol

the body, trigger frame, and even thickness of the bottom tube as well as placement of the sear pivot pin all factor into this working properly.

try what spider! said and see if that works
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Old 08-13-2019, 03:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Also try a weak striker spring. If you have it highly compressed it won't release the seer either, too much tension.
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Old 08-14-2019, 08:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidBoren View Post
The spacing is off. So I preloaded the sear with a click-pen spring around the sear stop pin. Still hitching, no release.

Would macroline over the sear pin be too much preload to be safe? I haven't even checked if that would release the striker or not, yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by seajay View Post
Also try a weak striker spring. If you have it highly compressed it won't release the seer either, too much tension.
I think I'm missing something on that linkage. Does the trigger not have a rigid connection to the sear (at least in the pull direction)? Or does the hammer move out of alignment inside the body? I couldn't find a diagram.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
VoodistMonk
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
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There is no rigid linkage between the trigger and the sear.

The trigger pivots backward and upwards to contact the front of the sear.

The front of the sear pivots up, and the rear of the sear lowers, releasing the striker... or that's what is supposed to happen.

The DYE frame doesn't seem to lower the sear enough to release the striker when on the Game Face body. I even put a piece of macroline on the sear stop pin, which pushes the front of the sear up/rear down, and it's not enough to make a difference.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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If the trigger doesn't have the right shape it might not be rotating the sear enough to release the striker.

There isn't a linkage to pull, just a shape to push on the lower section of the sear when the sear is engaged with the striker. It's a very simple rotation.

If the striker isn't catching then the sear either isn't tall enough or engaging with the striker. The striker isn't moving far enough back to engage with the tooth of the sear, or the sear is heavily worn down and no longer bites.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:29 AM   #8 (permalink)
VoodistMonk
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
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I can cock the marker, but it doesn't fire.

The striker is being engaged and held by the sear, but even when the sear lowers, it is still high enough into the lower tube to hold the striker.

There is less material on the Game Face body, and the frame fits closer/higher because of it. Without spacing the frame off the body, or modifying the sear pin location, it just isn't going to work.

Although I haven't modified the striker, yet, which very well might do the trick.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't mod the striker, it's hardened steel, so it'l be a task to chip away at it. It would be easier to modify the sear, or find a different one to try.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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on the back of the trigger is a little tab. should be held in place with a little dowel at the bottom and pushed out by a tiny little spring.

https://www.shop.com/Spyder+16168+Do...CABEgJhKvD_BwE

can you drill and tap that to accept a setscrew that you could back out to push up on the sear enough to trip it...?
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