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Old 09-05-2019, 04:33 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jordan View Post
I actually modded the bolt in your LCD a bit... it's supposed to have a piece of foam in the center, I glued a trimmed-down Spyder detent in there to push the ball forward in the breech.
-Rmember one of the many attempts to band-aid the issue was a red rubber piece that would go on the bolt, to push the ball forward where it was supposed to be, but being flexible rubber still allowed the breech to be opened.

It actually worked, just not with force-fed loaders, and the insert would blow out within a case or two, leaving behind a bolt face that was worse than the original "venturi" style bolts.

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Hey Doc, do I Need to send you the body for milling at all to go with the bolt? Or is that something that isnít a thing anymore?
-Yes, the body still needs a very light relief for clearance for the pin. I can do it, or I can send instructions on how it can be done if you want a local machinist or airsmith to do it. I've been told guys have used a Dremel and some care- part of the slot in the body below the Rotabreech needs to be widened, and it's hidden when the breech is closed.

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If you use Doc's bolt to get rid of the roll back then a rotor should keep chopping from happening until you pass 20bps fire rates.
-I have an original LED I got as parts, and put back together. I made a Dyna for it and used it several times in local games- with a Rotor or Halo, it has yet to break a ball, despite the fact it has no eyes or other sensors. (Bone stock original LED board.)

Basically with a good force feed and proper breech geometry, eyes are almost unnecessary. (Mainly needed, as I said, for the last few balls when your hopper runs dry.)

Doc.
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Old 09-05-2019, 05:38 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Hmmm good to know. I plan on either using an older revvy or possibly a z2 ad a hopper. Should be good with either one and a no rise feedneck, right?
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Old 09-06-2019, 03:49 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Hmmm good to know. I plan on either using an older revvy or possibly a z2 ad a hopper. Should be good with either one and a no rise feedneck, right?
-Yes and no. The Dyna goes a long way towards improving the breech/bolt geometery, but the one thing it can't cure is the huge breech bore diameter- which as I said can be upwards of .700". (I seem to recall measuring an LCD or possibly an IR3, at something like .710".)

That's already a problem with the next ball in line falling very close to the path of the bolt, but it's even worse today with the small-bore paints we have to deal with.

So long story short, the Dyna will improve the gun measurably, but it can't "cure" it completely.

A Revolution is still just a gravity-fed loader, and at full honk, the Angel can still outrun it on occasion, regardless of which bolt you're using.

The best possible combination for an early Angel, in my opinion, without springing for the cost of an eye install, is a DynaBolt (of course ) large-bore paint (.688 or better, if you can get it) and a quality modern force-fed loader.

The height of the feed neck is irrelevant. Pick whatever works well and looks good.

Doc.
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Old 09-07-2019, 07:10 PM   #34 (permalink)
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The height of the feed neck is irrelevant. Pick whatever works well and looks good.

Doc.
the only real concern is just making sure the breech can open fully
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Old 09-16-2019, 10:04 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Exactly. Otherwise there is no point
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