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Old 07-19-2008, 04:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I've repaired a few cracks in my day. I have a hypodermic needle that I fill with wood glue. I'll inject the glue into the crack then clamp it together to allow the glue to dry. If you dont have access to a needle you can put the glue on the surface sort of pressing it into the crack. Then clamp it and wipe the excess off with a wet towel.

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Well I went to the local pharmacy and bought a hypodermic needle. (I can't quite describe the look on the guy's face that helped me when I told him what I wanted and why I wanted it.)

I shimmed the crack open with a couple of toothpicks and did my best to fill the crack. There wasn't much space, but when I clamped the crack glue oozed out so I must have gotten some in. I also took sanding dust (sanded down the fore-grip a bit) and mixed it to the glue on the surface of the crack. Read that this would make good filler, we'll see. I'll post some pics as I work on the stock.

I figured I might as well strip the stock, stain it and put a couple of layers of tung oil on before sending off to PPS.
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... at first glace all looked good, but then I found a crack in the butt.
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Old 07-19-2008, 05:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If you're sending it to PPS for a Hurc conversion, you might want to think about refinishing it after you get it back. If they're going to be cutting it for air lines and a CA bracket, it'll leave a few edges you'll have to touch up.
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Old 07-19-2008, 05:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I was going to suggest the hypo needle, but looks like you were ahead of me on that. I agree with Frink, wait to finish it until it gets back from PPS. Of course, while it's there, you could always have Craig do some laser engraving on the wood....
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Old 07-19-2008, 08:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I was going to suggest the hypo needle, but looks like you were ahead of me on that. I agree with Frink, wait to finish it until it gets back from PPS. Of course, while it's there, you could always have Craig do some laser engraving on the wood....
Okay, okay, no messing with the stock until after the conversion... except to see how the repair took...

Hmm... any hints on how to restore the trigger guard and trigger. I've read that the rivets on the trigger guard are a real pain to deal with, so is it possible to refinish while it's still attached?
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... at first glace all looked good, but then I found a crack in the butt.
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Old 07-19-2008, 11:53 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Earthy View Post
Well I went to the local pharmacy and bought a hypodermic needle. (I can't quite describe the look on the guy's face that helped me when I told him what I wanted and why I wanted it.)

Well you see, I'm going to fill it with glue.... I have to try to seal up the crack in my butt. It's very unsightly you know. I'm a little worried about the stains penetrating, but whats a guy to do?

If I don't glue up that crack in my butt it might get bigger!
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Old 07-20-2008, 08:43 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Use superglue.
Hold your butt crack open slightly and apply a few drops.
Clamp it shut and in a few minutes it will be sealed permanently.
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Old 07-20-2008, 10:30 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Old 07-20-2008, 11:08 AM   #18 (permalink)
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For the trigger guard to remove it you can drill out the end of the rivet inside the stock and replace it with a small diameter long machine screw with nuts and a couple of washers. Use the same wood screw that comes with it. Sand the trigger guard if you want to and hit it with krylon or automotive paint.

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