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|12-13-2006, 10:29 AM||#21 (permalink)|
Corpses Eaten: 0
Wow, there's alot of CO2 myths flying around this thread.
I'm no expert, but I've done a bit of research on running CO2 since HPA isn't a viable option for me. Anyway, this is how I see it:
Mags having trouble with liquid, and not running well in the cold on CO2 are 2 different issues.
Get liquid in your mag and the orings will swell, causing the action to jam. Anti siphon your tank, and make sure the orientation is proper and you won't get liquid in the gun whether its winter or summer.
The reason mags don't run well on CO2 in cold whether is because below 50-60 CO2 only has around 600psi of pressure. Mags need 800+ to run well.
The day I tried to live
I wallowed in the blood and mud with All the other pigs
Singing One more time around
Might do it
One more time around
Might make it
RIP Mr. Cornell. thank you.
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|12-13-2006, 10:31 AM||#22 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ottawa, home. Petawawa, work.
I don't complain about it, I just beat down wipers with it.
Combined with the impressive heft of my all-steel Mag, it's also handy for those periods of waiting for the suppression fire to die down -- I can do bicep curls.
Last edited by TrracerAce; 12-13-2006 at 10:35 AM.
|12-13-2006, 01:04 PM||#23 (permalink)|
Mags are fun. I've only ever run them off HPA. P-Mags are unique but IMO there are better pumps out there. Now, you take a ULE, X-vavled mag and feed it about 1000psi, that is just too fun...
|12-13-2006, 03:53 PM||#24 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Akron area, Ohio
I love my 'Mags. There are also a lot of different things you can do to them. I even have one being converted into an electropneumatic!
|12-13-2006, 05:55 PM||#25 (permalink)|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
I have a classic mag & as mentioned above, it will run ok on input pressure lower than 800psi. 600psi is about the lowest recommended & you can run it lower (down to the ouput of the integrated reg) but you do get shootdown on rapid firing. I was using a second inline reg set at below the pressure that CO2 would stay liquid at the temp I was playing at. On a regular summer day here, allowing for some chilling of the CO2 due to firing that worked out rather conveniently to about 600psi.
Problem is if it got any colder than a nice summer day the reg would have to be turned down more. Spring/Fall were ok as I don't tend to shoot long strings so the shootdown wasn't much of an issue but once it started getting into single digits (celsius) the pressure had to go low enough that I was noticing shootdown.
|12-13-2006, 08:04 PM||#26 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
The general concensus agrees that the Mag is much like the Chevy 350. Inexpensive, infinitely upgradeable, reliable as hell, (insert your own accolade here).
Perhaps a Mag will be in my near future. I play woodsball. I have a Tippmann Carbine and a BT 16 Tactical that I use all the time. I have an 88/4500 tank that I run remote.
Something calls out to me when I see pics of the Mag in the BST forum.
Anything to look out for when buying used?
|12-13-2006, 08:21 PM||#27 (permalink)|
Ghost with the most
Try and steer clear of used Mag's that have lots of aftermark "ups". Usually AGD parts work the best for mags. A lot of the aftermarket parts had quality control issues.
Other than that, any problems you might have with it are almost certainly fixable with a new o-ring somewhere in the gun.
|12-14-2006, 02:27 AM||#28 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Los Angeles
Surestick: Once you A/S a tank you can use it on any markers, just drop a tank O-Ring in the ASA and it will still seal. If you shoot ropes, the valve won't be as open, so you can get shootdown similar to having too many or too slow regs on a HPA gun, a lack of air flow, not temperature problems. Someone may come in and tell me why I shouldn't do this, but it works damn well for me.
And I can get away with CO2 temperature wise, the coldest I have ever played in was about 70ºF . If I ever move up Nord, I'll have reason to consider getting a 13/3k or 22/3k (hydroing sucks). As for cost, well, I find A/S and a $40 reg do more than enough (I only have a few markers anyways), although I did once do A/S, XChamber, and Reg, only because the regulator had bad seals, and the shrinking metals caused it to leak. The chamber was free, but I will admit, it made for a slightly bulky setup. One thing to factor into cost is that a regulator will last you 20 years and only need a few bucks worth of O-Rings and oil. A "normal" (not 13 or 22 ci) HPA tank will last you 10 years and cost more money in the form of hydrotesting.
I'm able to stay fairly objective on it all, I am not trying to prove anything by sticking to CO2 (although you would think so with the flames I recieve on Specops and whatnot), but really, at this point, I am fine. I am always shoppping for that HPA tank that will fit my bill, but so far, none have been the right one.
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|12-14-2006, 04:46 AM||#29 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2006
Why are people so loathe to rehyrdo tanks?
I constantly pick up HPA systems for dirt cheap because they are "out of hydro" or close to it.
I then turn around, drop $15 or less depending on how many I have done at once and then sell those tanks at a considerable profit.
Rehydroing is easy/fast/cheap as long as the tank is in resonable shape.
|12-14-2006, 09:10 AM||#30 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
If you are worried about antisyphoning a tank, and complications therewith, you could just use the tank vertically, I've done that with my mag, and most of my loaner guns, and it is the very most easiest way to keep guns from drinking liquid. You have to turn the gun upsidedown to suck liquid.
Buy up a few 9 oz tanks, and a bulk tank, and you are set for renegade.
I have two classic mags, both run CO2, and they work well. HPA is slightly better, but CO2 works pretty well.
I also concur with not getting aftermarket regulators for the valve, they just don't work as well as AGD ones.
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