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Old 02-07-2017, 05:41 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I used something called K-C*Trouble Free, ill take a look at the sleeve.
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Old 02-07-2017, 06:27 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Sleeve seems nice and clean, I did wipe it out with a microfiber cloth to be sure. I noticed the striker actually had some corrosion on it, so I cleaned that up in case it was sticking.

I did notice some wear on the coupler that looks like it was from the sear, is that normal?
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Old 02-09-2017, 07:35 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Out of air, but in the meantime still felt like making models and printing stuff.





It actually works actuating it by hand, going to keep fiddling with the design*so it can be spring loaded and stronger. I imagine at some point I will break a guide plate. Though the real question is will I have any working mags at that point anyway.
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Old 02-09-2017, 10:10 PM   #24 (permalink)
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That looks amazing! I'll gladly help test that design. In the meantime, I've got somewhere around 40 spare guide plates here. I stocked up last time I got ahold of Gumby so that the community could have ready access.
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Old 02-10-2017, 05:34 PM   #25 (permalink)
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The couple looks okay and it is standard wear and tear. The paw looks okay, but it has been several months since I have had a chance to look at my guns. Kyle will have to confirm. If there is grit and grease on the shaft of the coupler, then clean that off. Like I said use oil to lube instead.

On the replacement guide plate...AMAZING! That looks way too smooth to be 3d printed. So, I have to ask how is it made? Is it aluminum or some other metal? How did you connect the cog-pull spring to newly created guild plate? The spring is a leaf spring with a triangle at the end to push the cog back. The next thing we (well me but I am sure the rest of the peanut gallery keeping these guys alive would want to know too) want to know is how did you bond the spring to the newly created plate? At ATS Gumby used a sonic welder to bond the spring to the plate.

Last edited by zenmic; 02-10-2017 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 02-15-2017, 09:14 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenmic View Post
On the replacement guide plate...AMAZING! That looks way too smooth to be 3d printed. So, I have to ask how is it made? Is it aluminum or some other metal? How did you connect the cog-pull spring to newly created guild plate? The spring is a leaf spring with a triangle at the end to push the cog back. The next thing we (well me but I am sure the rest of the peanut gallery keeping these guys alive would want to know too) want to know is how did you bond the spring to the newly created plate? At ATS Gumby used a sonic welder to bond the spring to the plate.
That plate is actually a printed plastic part, to make it though I switched to a 0.2mm nozzle for detail. The "standard" nozzle is 0.4mm, fine for most tasks but I wanted a bit more accuracy on this part.

This guide plate design won't actually require a spring in the same way as the stock one. As far as I can tell, the guideplate merely ensures the cog moves in a clockwise pattern, up and forward, down and back. We can do that with a switch and a tension spring, which should be easier to reproduce than the stock one.

The tension spring will just need to return the switch to the "Up" position. As the cog moves forward, it will push the switch down and out of the way until it reaches the front, then the switch will pop back up. As the cog comes back, it will strike against the now raised switch, and it will slide down in its grooves. Once down, it will ride underneath the switch, staying engaged to the magazine. From the rear, the magazine itself will pop the cog back up as it moves forward and resets.

And player 3 joins the pile:
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Old 02-15-2017, 12:49 PM   #27 (permalink)
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>Player 3 joins the pile

I'm telling you, it's an addiction!
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:34 PM   #28 (permalink)
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RuleOfSines, that is BRILLIANT. Will you be adding that to the rATS project? Could it be that you have made an improvement to perfection?

How did you bond the spring and switch to the plate? For that matter, a switch as in electronic switch or mechanical switch? Looking at the images for the plate, there is a slit that could let grit in there, is it possible to close it off, like the production plate?
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:40 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lordkyleofearth View Post
>Player 3 joins the pile

I'm telling you, it's an addiction!
No argument from me there, I'm hoping I have the strength of will to stop at 3 for at least a little while.


Quote:
Originally Posted by zenmic View Post
RuleOfSines, that is BRILLIANT. Will you be adding that to the rATS project? Could it be that you have made an improvement to perfection?

How did you bond the spring and switch to the plate? For that matter, a switch as in electronic switch or mechanical switch? Looking at the images for the plate, there is a slit that could let grit in there, is it possible to close it off, like the production plate?
I'll be making more revisions to it; I'm picturing it being multiple pieces: the main body, the mechanical "switch", a pen spring, and then a cover. I'm using the word Switch to describe it, because I was thinking of a Railway Switch when designing it, like these:
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Old 02-17-2017, 07:18 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Alrighty, so player 3 has damaged screws all around, managed to get the tops out but the side ones need some "encouragement", in the form of a Torx bit and a hammer:


Hammer trick worked nicely and got it opened up for cleaning. Only problem I found was the bolt was stuck tight onto the rod, wouldn't rotate at all. Yanked it off and got that moving freely again.


Got some bent rods, from the mag cycling into a closed bolt I'm guessing:


Better, but still needs some tweaking. One of the links is a bit offset and catches on the guide wheels.
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