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|10-08-2012, 04:17 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Building a Lotus full body Pump
So I acquired a full body Lotus pump sometime earlier in the year in a trade and I've finally decided to get around to make it shoot good.
My friend that traded it to me built it from just a few basic parts without much care into what was in it other than it shot.
What I have so far, Dye slide frame, green/black fade Lotus body, CP reg, and CCM pump kit.
I added the Omega slide trigger, and grinded down a stock beaver tail to fit, along with swapping on a Shocktech ASA and rail to keep the length and feel consistent to my 09 SFL.
Its not perfect, there are some scratches and wear on the gun as well as the original gloss back block stripped out. But I love it regardless. It still has a nice deep color. What I'm looking at right now is getting a new valve (looking at the ST Rat), and picking up a new hammer as the current one likes to cross thread easily as well as a spring kit.
When I shoot it now, it farts really bad despite backing out the spring tension and raising the input pressure. Even when I shoot it without air you can feel the vibrations of the springs not sealing the valve well. I'm looking for a crisp quiet shot.
Does anyone have any suggestions for hammer choices? I'm wondering about how the weight differences affect performance.
I saw that many recommend the AKA valves but I'm curious about how much better they are over some of the other valves like ST, Besales, etc that all have orings on the valve stem.
I missed out on the heyday of cockers and mags so unfortunately I'm not too familiar with some of the parts that are out there.
Eventually I want to built a full cocker but my SFL shoots so good I have no need for another full build. I want a nice pump that's consistent so I can become a better player.
|10-08-2012, 08:13 PM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Charleston, SC
ya i would get a ccm lowetube kit it will save you some hassel then set your reg to about 325psi and go play.
I buy Automags and Parts: if you need cash shoot me a pm
My shop page: Bearded Works
|10-08-2012, 09:19 PM||#6 (permalink)|
Yield and Overcome...
NO NO NO. You do not/not want the SS-25 lower kit...that uses a spyder valve
Get the regular autococker lower internals. Best thing you can do for a pump, besides a CCM pump kit. Set the input pressure to about 300 and mow.
|10-08-2012, 09:37 PM||#8 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: A2, Michigan
What lowers are in it now, freeflow? Sounds like you're just using too soft of a valve spring.
|10-08-2012, 10:17 PM||#9 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2008
I'm pretty sure its stock wgp internals. But I haven't taken it apart to check. I need a valve tool for complete disassembly. My friend just bought the body and had stock random internals put into it. Need to check him first.
At the least, I want a spring kit. Looking at the maddman one.
EDIT: Asked my friend. Internals were already installed when he got it. No idea what they are. Guess I'll have to disassemble and takes pics for y'all.
Last edited by Serafin; 10-08-2012 at 10:26 PM.
|10-08-2012, 10:37 PM||#10 (permalink)|
Miembro de MCB
Basically the hammer spring is overpowering the valve spring causing it to "bounce" back open slightly which creates the 'farting' noise.
As others have said, the easy answer is just to get the full CCM lower tube setup for a normal 'cocker.
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