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CarolinaPanthers13 11-21-2012 11:27 AM

Want to Help Me ID Some Cocker Parts?
Hey guys,

I know these threads are a dime-a-dozen, but if you could help me ID some parts/any other pertinent info on this cocker I would appreciate it. Thanks! I'm picking this bad boy up on Sunday, so pics are the best I got for now.

Correct me anywhere I'm wrong here, but I'll take a stab at it!

I'll start at the front block - I believe it has a Shochtech Bomb 3-way, Kapp LPR (I knew that from other pictures), a Clippard ram, and some sort of expansion chamber. What are your guys' thoughts on these pnues? Good, bad, some good some bad? I've been out of the cocker game for a few years but if memory serves me, that 3-way is pretty sick, not sure about the LPR, and I think Clippard is average/slightly above average?

Guy said it was a 98 cocker, is there anything to say that its older/newer? Not that I care all that much, but I'm hoping to have the hole in the body for hammer lug adjustment. Real old ones didn't have that, right? Also, I can use whatever valve I want? If its a pre-2k valve, I was planning on swapping it out for a 2k+ valve and playing with some Maddman springs. No problems with that plan, right?

Also, I was pretty pumped to see it has a Vigilante reg. If I recall, that's a pretty solid reg, no? And that trigger plate looks pretty gnar, I might want to swap it out with a new one. Looks to be a WGP frame, so it'd be cool using any trigger plate that I can find? My first experience with a slider frame so I'm not sure exactly what I'm in for, but that's part of why I wanted to pick it up :).

Oh, and yes, I plan on cleaning her up haha.

Thanks for the help and feel free to hit me with any other thoughts you guys (and gals) might have!

Hobbes 11-21-2012 11:30 AM

Shocktech bomb 3-way
Kapp LPR
Clippard Ram
Dunno what the volumizer is

Looks like it could be a '98. There are some minor differences in body styling, like I think between the 98 and 99 they rounded the bottom more.

HokiePB 11-21-2012 12:40 PM

Volly is a Shocktech, I think.

Vigilantes are pretty good HPRs.

You might have some luck just polishing that trigger plate, and the sear also.

ryanhall41 11-21-2012 12:52 PM

shocktech bomb 3-way
shocktech lpc (volumeizer)
clippard mini ram (seam as ans mini ram)
Kapp twister lpr

the pneus are decent. I would swap the ram out and then you should be set up pretty good.

I believe it's a 97 cocker because the top of the sight rail isn't slanted. The really old bodies dont have the hole for the hammer adjustment but it can standard on 97+ cockers.

You can use any valve that you want, the only think that isn't backward compatible from 2k+ to pre99 cockers are the banjo nuts

there are 2 types of trigger plates. pre 98 and post 98 so you will need to see which one you need before you buy a new one but I would just polish up you existing one.

CarolinaPanthers13 11-21-2012 01:26 PM

Sweet thanks for the input guys!

Dumb question - How would you guys go about polishing? Sandaper? Or is that too primitive haha.

Guy said the trigger sticks with the bolt back, so I'm assuming its a trigger problem or something with the three way? I think I ran into a sticky 3-way problem building my cocker - some Dow 33 cleared that up nice.

And banjo nut - that is the one that kind of goes around the valve, inside the lower tube, and the jam nut kind of sticks up into the body? Haha sorry for the crappy description

ryanhall41 11-21-2012 01:57 PM

the banjo nut is the thing that holds the frontblock onto the body. In this case it has been replaced with an lpc which is basically an extended banjo nut that is hollow to allow for more air volume.

the jam nut is the thing that goes around the valve in the lowertube and the valve retaining screw is the thing that goes up into the valve from under the body.

the trigger sticking could be because of several reasons. Paint and or gunk could have gotten into the frame, the 3-way may be dirty or the timing rod may be bent causing binding. Start by taking it apart and cleaning everything

use wet/dry sandpaper and water for polishing.

I have videos over disassemble, cleaning, polishing, etc for autocockers on my youtube channel

CarolinaPanthers13 11-21-2012 02:16 PM

You sir, are fantastic! That was going to my first step, disassembling, cleaning, inspecting, and lubing. I will definitely check out those youtube videos, I have never encountered a slider frame before lol, and I will invariably get stuck somewhere else along the way too. As far as sanding goes, what grit would you start out with? I'm not sure how tight the tolerances are and I wouldn't to take away too much metal. Probably nothing to worry about, but I could see myself going ape and going to far haha. And stop around 2000 grit?

And I can't believe what a dummy I was with the banjo bolt! I even knew that one was smaller than the other. I got hung up thinking about the valves and such. And I havent touched an autococker in like three years haha. Rusty?

ryanhall41 11-21-2012 03:57 PM

start around 500 when polishing and I usually stop around 2000

the tolerances are anything but tight in slider frames. The only thing that you could screw up is the side to side play but there is already going to be a good amount of that and you dont need to polish the sides of the plate, just the top, bottoms, and sear ramp. There should be adjustment screw on the bottom of the frame that push the trigger plate upwards to take out any vertical play

CarolinaPanthers13 11-21-2012 08:19 PM

good looks man. thank you for the help!

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