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Old 03-25-2019, 11:26 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Detent question.

Hello.

A quick Google search didn't yield any results, so here's a question. Does the length of the threaded section of a cocker detent vary across brands? I have a 2k3 WGP cocker with a hex nickel-plated looking detent that when threaded in all the way rubs on/locks up the bolt. It came with an o-ring behind it when I bought it which broke & I suppose I could just install a new o-ring but I'd rather get the correct detent.
So do they vary or is there something with the 2k3s that is different? Can't imagine the 2k3s being any different, but I just want to make sure I buy the right one. Or perhaps mine is for something else entirely?

Thanks for reading.

EDIT: Can't believe I didn't think of this sooner- I should try the factory detent from my 2k2 on it & see what happens. But I'd still need a nickel/chrome one to match everything. Gotta match the nickel front end 'cause it's gonna be a gift for someone. Just got done with work, so my mind is shot at the moment.
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Last edited by glaman5266; 03-25-2019 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It can vary somewhat, but they are made to install with the o-ring on it.
You can loctite them into place to set depth.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Kind of, I have a 2k5 superstock, stock detent if course worked fine, decided to move to a Killa products magnetic detent, wouldn't even work at all. The"neck" of the detent (after the threads, before the ball or whatever is actually in the breach) is so long that once the threads were engaged even a little, the neck was already in the breach interfering with the bolt.

So the length of the threads didn't really come into play but the design of the detent did.

I now use a CP detent, it is not screwed in all the way but is close, loc Tite holds it the rest of the way

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You can loctite them into place to set depth.
This, do this
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Old 03-25-2019, 01:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The ones with an oring are made to help prevent it from loosening. You won't want to use those without the oring.
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Old 03-25-2019, 01:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The ones with an oring are made to help prevent it from loosening. You won't want to use those without the oring.
I've had a case where the o ring prevented the detent from reaching into the breach far enough to do it's job, but also without it was too far into the breach.

Just depends on your situation, wgp made bodies with different wall thicknesses and aftermarket companies don't always test their detents on all bodies.

Part of owning a cocker is problem solving
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Old 03-25-2019, 04:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Part of owning a cocker is problem solving
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Old 03-25-2019, 05:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hellion360 View Post
It can vary somewhat, but they are made to install with the o-ring on it.
You can loctite them into place to set depth.
I will try the loctite route. Thanks.
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Just depends on your situation, wgp made bodies with different wall thicknesses and aftermarket companies don't always test their detents on all bodies.

Part of owning a cocker is problem solving
Yeah, that's kinda what I was wondering about. I don't have an o-ring on my 2k2 and the stock detent works perfectly. Same with the 2k RF I had years ago. I've never actually had this problem, as almost all the cockers I've owned were from WGP and used factory detents.

Thanks guys. I appreciate it.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Cockers over the years have gotten thinner so any older detent may have this issue. May I suggest that you use VC3 rather than locktite?
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