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Old 09-27-2009, 07:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Why are halfcockers such a PITA to time?

I've been able to time every single full-length cocker I've ever had. Two halfcockers, one halfblock one midblock, and I can't time either one for the life of me.

Either it's timed too tight, and the hammer never hits the valve, or too loose, and the hammer never catches the sear. I don't really get it... why am I grossly incompetent with these devils?

I'm wondering if it would be possible to tap the hammer slot for a set screw, so I could make the hammer carry back a little farther, and grab the sear more reliably. Anyone have less intensive ideas?
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What hammer lugs are you running? I've found the rounded ones can be a real PITA.
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thats a GA Tech grad for you
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not a grad yet... 2 and a half more semesters until I get to leave hell.

The whole gun is a bit... broken in. I bought it for cheap, and deservedly so. The hammer lug isn't rounded, but it's certainly a bit worn. I can get it to work just fine if I time it especially tight and creeeeeeep the trigger back, wait for the hammer to drop, then snap it back to get the hammer to catch, but at 'normal' trigger pull speeds, I need to loosen the timing until the hammer never has a chance to catch.

Is there a chance the hammer slot was milled too long? I really need to just make a custom hammer... they're all crap these days. This one rattles around in the tube like a penny in a washing machine. Anyways, if it were a full-length cocker, i'd just shorten my cocking rod a bit and the problem would go away, but there's no easy way to do that on a halfcocker as far as I know.

Ideas?
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The only way to adjust cocking length with HBs is by the pump arm, and that can even be iffy. It could simply be that the parts you have don't quite match up with the way the body or sled were cut, and that's causing your trouble. One thing you could do is have a new hammer cut a little too short to see if it helps.

I also think an adjustable bolt pin system would be a wiser choice than putting a screw in the hammer. HB hammers are frequently cocked while at a slight angle already, and a screw may only make things worse. This would require a metal sled as far as I can think of, but the idea works in my mind. Among other methods, adding those "pointy" set screws (like DM5+ trigger adjustments) to the sled, up against the bolt pin might work. As long as your bolt isn't cut short, you should still get a fine seal.
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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How long is the slot? Should be 0.75"

The set-screw in the hammer isnt making sense to me, but I halfed a superbolt a few years ago and I always had trouble timing it. Then again I didnt know if it was me or the ****e components on it.
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Old 09-28-2009, 10:16 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah, I added one of Drg's Tungsten slugs to the hammer, so that's not the issue. The hammer is just a) loose and b) probably has to long a slot.

John, my concept with the set screw would be to use to to adjust how deep the slot is, by dialing it in or out (parallel to the cocking rod axis) to give a contact point longer or shorter than before. Gonna throw a set of calipers on my hammer... pretty sure it's off spec.
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Old 09-28-2009, 10:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Well, don't throw them... calipers are a precision instrument...
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Old 09-28-2009, 11:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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ok thats exactly what I was thinking, I just didnt see the it all fitting but thats a cool idea. That slot should be 0.75" long and cool I was going to offer my DRG hammer thing to you since I'm not using it...yet.

BTW I also have that 16oz tank for you.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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One other place I have had issues on halfblocks is the length of the slot in the hammer. If it's too long(?) you can run into some sear grabbing issues, I have seen.
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