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Old 09-14-2017, 02:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Other than making space for the set screw in the hole for the link pin, I've always wondered - what's the reason for swapping the tube to the hammer and adding a shaft to carrier, when you could just add the shaft to the hammer?

I feel like I have a better way of accomplishing the set-screw/link pin mod, and adding the shaft to the hammer instead would just save a step. Since it's the custom piece anyway, then you can make the striking face whatever size you want.
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Other than making space for the set screw in the hole for the link pin, I've always wondered - what's the reason for swapping the tube to the hammer and adding a shaft to carrier, when you could just add the shaft to the hammer?

I feel like I have a better way of accomplishing the set-screw/link pin mod, and adding the shaft to the hammer instead would just save a step. Since it's the custom piece anyway, then you can make the striking face whatever size you want.
According to MadMarty (patron saint of Brass Eagle), swapping the tube and adding the pin to the carrier ensures reliable latching.... adding the pin to the hammer didn't always equate to consistent latching between the carrier and hammer in his experience.

Rainmakers will keep on feeding and cycling regardless of latch up, it's inherent in the design... if you don't have everything in sync, you just keep pushing paint down the barrel until the valve finally opens. Then, splooge.

Also, on a conventional Rainmaker valve, the tube makes an adequate size striking surface... The Rocket valve has a much larger knob on the cup seal and it does a number on the hammer. Making a new hammer out of harder material might not be a bad idea either, but then it might chew up the lower receiver quicker.... they're really just not very good markers.
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Glad I asked. In my head it doesn't seem like it should make a difference, but there you go.
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Old 09-14-2017, 03:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Glad I asked. In my head it doesn't seem like it should make a difference, but there you go.
The only other difference I could see was that the "tube" is lighter than the "pin"; not by a whole lot, but the hammer is not steel in the first place, so the weight change with the added part is a significant proportion.

If you made a hollow pin, it would need a thick wall to taper for the initial alignment, but that might allow you to make a single mod out of it. Some of the early mods were with shoulder bolts as mentioned, so having a lathe-turned part might be the difference.

***

On third thought, the tube is a larger diameter and matches the spring. The carrier is guided already by the ram. Putting the tube on the hammer makes it more accurately guided than with a smaller diameter pin. That way both sides are guided as much as possible.
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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On third thought...
Ahhhh. Yeah, there we go! Now I can see why MM would have gotten better alignment that way.
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