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Old 01-30-2019, 10:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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While we're on the subject of velocity, which way do I turn it to increase? I assumed it was a tippmann style choke screw, but the manual says screwing it out will decrease. Any input?
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Old 01-30-2019, 01:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BLINDMAN Pb View Post
While we're on the subject of velocity, which way do I turn it to increase? I assumed it was a tippmann style choke screw, but the manual says screwing it out will decrease. Any input?
You are correct, it's a Tippmann style choke screw. Screw in to restrict the power tube and lower velocity, screw out to open the power tube and raise velocity. Not sure what is up with the manual.
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Old 02-10-2019, 12:33 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Tried shooting inside today. Replaced the hammer oring, oiled it all up, adjusted the sear for maximum surface to catch on and removed the pennies from the main spring. With my 1000ish psi 800 output tank, that shot fine for the first shot, then started sputtering. Hopefully I'll get my 1100 output tank filled tmo...
One the topic of the ray, does anyone have any advice on mounting a Lonestar grip adapter to the barrel so it doesn't spin?
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Old 02-13-2019, 12:49 AM   #14 (permalink)
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...
One the topic of the ray, does anyone have any advice on mounting a Lonestar grip adapter to the barrel so it doesn't spin?
not sure what a lonestar grip adapter is?/?
but as far as getting the barrel not to spin(assuming you aren't using a spyder barrel/remora adapter - which shouldn't spin and is the best way to get the barrel not to spin) I used to use either a wrap or two of duct tape around the barrel over the slots or some gasket sealer/silicone in the slots to build it up then trim it till it fit tight.


Also as an FYI fun fact did you know that the old APEX 1 will fit into the grooves on the front of the stock barrel with just a little persuasion...
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When I started doing shells for my revolvers the apparent thing i noticed was the hole size in the cartridge controlled the velocity of my paint.
TL;DR hole size controls how fast balls get spent
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:31 AM   #15 (permalink)
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not sure what a lonestar grip adapter is?/?

but as far as getting the barrel not to spin(assuming you aren't using a spyder barrel/remora adapter - which shouldn't spin and is the best way to get the barrel not to spin) I used to use either a wrap or two of duct tape around the barrel over the slots or some gasket sealer/silicone in the slots to build it up then trim it till it fit tight.





Also as an FYI fun fact did you know that the old APEX 1 will fit into the grooves on the front of the stock barrel with just a little persuasion...
Lonestar grip adapter is just an M16 grip mounting block on a barrel clamp. Does the apex 2 work on the barrel? I was looking at those grooves with malicious intent.
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Old 02-13-2019, 12:55 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Lonestar grip adapter is just an M16 grip mounting block on a barrel clamp. Does the apex 2 work on the barrel? I was looking at those grooves with malicious intent.
no not as it sits because the Apex2 sits over the barrel about 2-3" and that is how it attaches to the barrel the OD of the stock barrel is too big to allow it to slip over
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Originally Posted by CCMachinist View Post
When I started doing shells for my revolvers the apparent thing i noticed was the hole size in the cartridge controlled the velocity of my paint.
TL;DR hole size controls how fast balls get spent
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Old 02-15-2019, 12:44 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I took the clamp off mine & mounted just the grip the body right under the barrel. Since there's a channel in the body under the barrel it's the perfect spot. I just drilled two holes where I was going to mount the grip. Found nuts that were small enough to fit in the channel & the corresponding bolts. Had to cut the bolts down so that they didn't extend above the channel where the barrel would be. I don't specifically remember but I'm sure I used loc tite on the bolts. It looks great, feels just right as far spacing between it & the back grip and it's just as solid now as it was when I did it nearly 20 years ago. I can post pics if needed.
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Old 02-15-2019, 07:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I took the clamp off mine & mounted just the grip the body right under the barrel. Since there's a channel in the body under the barrel it's the perfect spot. I just drilled two holes where I was going to mount the grip. Found nuts that were small enough to fit in the channel & the corresponding bolts. Had to cut the bolts down so that they didn't extend above the channel where the barrel would be. I don't specifically remember but I'm sure I used loc tite on the bolts. It looks great, feels just right as far spacing between it & the back grip and it's just as solid now as it was when I did it nearly 20 years ago. I can post pics if needed.
Pics please, they'd really help.
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Old 02-15-2019, 08:49 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Pics please, they'd really help.
Iíll get some this weekend. If you still want to mount the grip on a barrel that wonít spin, the Eagleworks is a good one.
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:21 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Last edited by homerj; 02-20-2019 at 01:24 AM.
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