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Old 01-27-2017, 06:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cheese's 98 Pneu-bolt Build

Backstory:
I have been wanting to do a high performance Tippmann 98 (oxymoron?) build for years now, but only recently decided to start working on one. I liked the idea of doing a fast-shooting response trigger build, but I also wanted something different. Something that was my own.

A friend of mine who was getting out of the sport gave me a bunch of gear, including a model 98 and an early gen 98 custom. I originally thought that I would use the model 98 for the build, as I like the look of the “gills” on the model, and the fact that it is no longer in production. However, due to the setup of the trigger and sear springs, the integrated trigger guard, and the lack of the R/T powertube compatibility, settled on the 98 custom.

Most of the work done here is going to be done with hand tools. The only part done with power tools so far is the initial holes for the slots in the body.


The Body:
I wanted to do something with the look of the front end of the marker, similar to the way some model 98’s have the areas between the gills cut out so you can see the bolt. I decided that a series of small horizontal slots would provide an interesting look and allow a view into the breech area.

1/8 holes were drilled in rows on a drill press with a cross-slide, and are currently being hand-filed out into slots. Once I have the slots wide enough, I will use a rat-tail file to round out the corners. I intend on filling in the blemishes on the surface with JB weld and then sanding it smooth. Keep in mind that this is still a work in progress and not anywhere near the final form.



I also intend to file down and round the sight rail, and possibly file a dovetail into the grip for a better ASA.


The Ram:

I saw a member on here asking whether or not a Promaster ram would fit in a 98 custom, and that got me thinking. I knew it probably wouldn’t work without some serious modification, but there really wasn’t any way to tell without getting my hands on one. After some research and looking around, I found a cheap ram on eBay. A few days later this showed up:

I may mod the ram to remove the spring assist at some point later-on, but for now it will stay as it is.


The Board/Solenoid:

I needed a solenoid to operate the ram, and a board to power the solenoid. My original plan was to run a Scenario Dreams UTB, but they seem to be hard to come by and their website seems kinda sketchy. After trolling the forums for moths, I found Spider's SMAC thread https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/c...g-control.html, and decided that I might try something like that. I decided on a mac 43 solenoid as it was cheap, and could be used as a backup incase the one in my ego ever died.


After receiving the solenoid, I realized how easy it was to convert to mechanical actuation. My current plan is to run the solenoid mechanically, and use Spider’s SMAC design if I ever decide to go electro. The picture below is the solenoid setup to run mechanically with spacers in place of the wiring plug.



The Reg:
I will be using an ANS gen x2 reg with a vertical adapter kit. The vertical adapter is a BT 3-piece kit that was rather cheap. There was a bit of an issue however. When I was doing a test fit with the reg, I could not get it to screw in all the way. It felt like it was cross threaded, but when I got the reg back off, the threads were fine. Furthermore, a different reg was able to fit into the adapter, and both regs could screw into different ASA’s. What is going on here? Well I took a set of calipers to the ASA’s, the regs, and the vertical adapter, and concluded that the ANS reg threads are about 0.004” larger than the rest on my reg/tank threads, and the adapter’s ASA threads were 0.009 too small. After a bit of work with a file and sandpaper on both the reg and adapter, they fit together perfectly. I intend on getting a tee to replace the 90*, so I can add a volumizer.
The vertical adapter:



Reg doesn’t screw in enough:


Different reg in adapter and ANS reg in different ASA:


Final fitment:



LPR:
I had a WGP sledgehammer, but that was way too big for what I wanted, so I got a tickler lpr that should work just fine. As far as location, I figured I had 3 options: under the barrel coming out of a hole in the front grip, off a port on the reg, or off of the bottomline ASA. I decided that having it hanging off reg would look bad and be prone to breakage, and under the barrel would require much more time and effort to get it to look how I wanted. That and I don’t have the proper tools to make it look nice.



Valve:
My plan with the valve is to disable blowback and lower the pressure. I will disable blowback as best as I can by countersinking the existing blowback hole, adding an oring, and then using a thin piece of aluminum to cover the oring. The aluminum piece will have a hole in it very close to the diameter of the valve pin so that gas escaping rearward is kept to a minimum.
I intend to widen and deepen the slots in the valve body to increase airflow, as well as use a lighter valve spring and the regulator to achieve a lower operating pressure. With lower pressure, a greater volume of air is needed, so my plan for the volumizer is to gut the sledgehammer I have, tap and plug the holes, and then mount in in the conventional volumizer location.


Mockup outside:


Mockup in:



2/5/17 Update
Haven't got too much done due to school and research, but I got the slots on the right side clamshell pretty much done, and I have begun removing material from the back-cap to fit the rear of the ram. Still waiting on some m3 barbs so I can start doing the pneumatics, but that should go quick.
Magmoormaster: I just joined the facebook group and will throw up a link to this build in a bit.

Widened and rounded body slots



Removed some material from ram cap as well as the inside of the back-cap



2/12/17 Update
Title changed because its not really an e-bolt anymore. I got some more work done on the body and ram, but no pictures yet. I also tore into my autococker this weekend and stole the valve stem/cup seal assembly to see if it will work in the cvx valve to disable blowback, which it will, so I need to get one of those now. I have designed a trigger that I would like to eventually have 3D printed for this. The holes in it are for pre-travel and actuation adjustment screws.
If anyone has access to a 3D printer and would like to get the .stl file, just shoot me a pm.


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Just the tip or do you need to work it with your fingers?

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Old 01-27-2017, 06:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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2/23/17 Update

I finished the cutouts on the body, minus some minor filling and sanding, so those are pretty much done now.

Both receiver halves


Driver side


Passenger side


I also got an autococker cupseal to use in the valve to disable blowback.
Stock vs autococker cupseals


The autococker cupseal stem was just a few thousandths too big, so I chucked it up in a drill and very carefully took it down until it fit into the valve snugly, but was still able to move freely.

Cupseal stem too big


Filing down to size


Getting there


It fits!


Clearance around stock valve stem


Clearance around new autococker valve stem


The next most important task is shaping the ram and clamshells so that the ram sits properly and will actually strike the valve when activated, and then securing it in place.


3/25/17 Update

I got to go home for spring break, so i had access to better tools, and I got a lot done, but few progress pics.

I ordered the trigger I designed through shapeways, but it had some fitment issues and it felt too mushy, so I used it as a template to make a new trigger out of aluminum. I also had my roommate 3D print a trigger guard for the new trigger.

Stock trigger and guard, shapeways plastic trigger and 3D printed guard, aluminum trigger.


I drilled and tapped a 90* fitting for use with the volumizer, and modified it to work with the vertical adapter tube.



Drilled and tapped the stock asa.


Used a die-grinder to remove material from the clamshells to fit the ram, the solenoid, and the hoses.


Made a shorter linkage arm, more ram modifications, and the solenoid activation assembly.


3 potential LP valve springs with the modified autococker cupseal compared to the original hardware.


I also did some work on the valve body, making the air transfer passages bigger, but I don't have any pics of it at the moment.
Now its just putting it all together without any leaks!


To do list:
Ram – Finish modifying back-cap so ram fits inside
Shape ram to fit clamshells
Shape clamshells for ram clearance
Drill hole for connecting rod
Shorten connecting rod
Volumizer – Drill and tap exhaust hole for plug, plug exhaust and output holes
Get 1/8 npt m-f-f tee, file to fit in clamshells
Drill center hole to ~ 0.365” or 9.2mm and epoxy in vertical adapter tube
LPR – Decide on mounting location
drill and tap bottomline ASA for second output
Solenoid – Decide on electronic or mech actuation
Electro, find UTB or build an smac
Mech, securely mount solenoid in frame and find way to activate it.
–Trigger set screws: pre-travel, post-travel/stop, and activation.
Valve – Widen and deepen air transfer cuts
Lighter valve spring
Autococker cup seal
Body – Finish front cuts
–Remove sight rails and round
–Polish internals
Fittings – m3 barbs for solenoid
2x 90* 1/8 npt fittings, nickel plated if possible
lpr hose
Other misc parts – Double trigger
New detent


Stay tuned for more!
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Just the tip or do you need to work it with your fingers?

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Old 01-27-2017, 06:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Decided to go electro with this. Using an Adafruit Trinket microcontroller board. Code is an extremely basic semi-auto function, but I do plan on adding ramping and full auto at some point.

Short overview of the electronics and demonstration of it working. More to come!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7J1_ByA_Teo?ecver=1
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:26 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Interesting build. You should join the Model 98 Enthusiasts group on facebook; we have all the old model98.org guys there. Tons of knowledge over there if you need help, and I'm sure everyone would love to see this.
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Old 02-05-2017, 12:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Small update added to first post.
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Old 02-05-2017, 01:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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For the blowback you can take the valve apart and swap to a pin from something that has a straight shaft. I believe the one I ended up putting in mine is a cocker pin.
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Old 02-05-2017, 02:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Why can't the lpr go in the grip? If you're not putting a battery and board there. A pneubolt! Really interesting idea on the ram.
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Old 02-05-2017, 03:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Macdave06 View Post
For the blowback you can take the valve apart and swap to a pin from something that has a straight shaft. I believe the one I ended up putting in mine is a cocker pin.
Did you remove the valve pin from the part that seals? (I think its called the cup seal.) Or did you replace the whole pin/plunger assembly?

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Originally Posted by spece108 View Post
Why can't the lpr go in the grip? If you're not putting a battery and board there. A pneubolt! Really interesting idea on the ram.
Thanks! The main reasons I didn't go with the lpr in the grip are: 1) lpr adjustment would be difficult, and 2) I don't have the proper tools right now to do that. It is something I would like to do later once I have the lpr dialed in and I have access to better machinery.
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A Dormant Cheese View Post
Did you remove the valve pin from the part that seals? (I think its called the cup seal.) Or did you replace the whole pin/plunger assembly
I believe I swapped the whole pin with the cup seal. It's been a while since I swapped them. You'll want a softer spring for LP too.
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Old 02-12-2017, 10:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Title change to reflect operating style and small update.
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